Visiting Santorini: Island-Utopia

Quintessentially Greek, Santorini oozes the archetypal island charm cultivated in the minds of utopia-seeking visitors. White Cycladic, cubiform houses spill over the edge of a three hundred-meter cliff and cascade down its face, giving rise – from a distance - to the illusion of an imposing iceberg. Ceremoniously, its charm is further revealed as the landscape plummets: historical relics lead to black, red and white-volcanic sandy beaches set to a backdrop of indigo-turquoise Aegean water. The island’s native inhabitants complement the landscape by contributing genial Mediterranean hospitality to the mix. Add to this rustic Greek cuisine and therein lies the perfect recipe: visiting Santorini is being on a Shangri-La of islands.  Getting to paradise, though, on this occasion, was not picture-perfect.

Getting There - it's Worth the Transport Ordeal

Following a night driving through Athens’s ancient streets - catching a glimpse of the Acropolis and other historical masterpieces under the moonlight - after a midnight arrival into the country, Jorge and I returned to the airport and made haste for check-in. We were regretfully informed that, “there are no flights to islands today. It is Ergatikí Protomagiá – Labour day for Greek people. No ferry either. Hotel perhaps?”

Weary eyed, dejected and void of adrenaline coursing through our blood vessels, the only reasonable option was rest. With a hostel brochure in tow, we returned downtown by means of an overpriced taxi and checked in to a hostel. Before sleep ensued – which occurred within seconds of laying down, we booked ferry tickets with an ominous departure time: midnight.

Adding insult to injury, upon arrival at the ferry terminal after a restless day, we realised our tickets weren’t classy: we were – in fact – considered void of class and forced to sit on the deck as ‘foot passengers’. Equipped with no suitable warm clothes, we had to endure ten hours of cold Mediterranean wind chilling us to the core, without the sun’s presence to warm our souls. However, catching sight of Santorini under the sun’s early morning rays was heavenly – a Nirvana, of sorts. The beauty of the island was worth every moment of the ordeal getting there.

Getting Around - Island Style

After settling in, it was decided there was only one fitting way to see the island: on the back of two (motorised) wheels. Notably, not all Greek riders have a suitably-obtained licence to ride, so a defensive approach is necessary. Helmets and sunglasses were donned and the 150cc engines were ignited. Cautious zipping through Thira’s narrow streets followed, giving rise to riding confidence.

With the town’s whitewashed resplendence but a mere reflection in the oval-rearview side mirrors, the roads widened, presenting an opportunity to rocket down slopes and weave around bends towards the Aegean below. Waves of cordiality were thrown at other riders; horns were beeped at donkeys crossing the road, and smiles were projected towards locals at work in their habitat. The cool wind crisscrossed our faces as we accelerated forward. Aside from a near-bogging incident on volcanic sands, riding around the island was incident free. It was, in fact, the best way to see every fissure of island life – moving like a local.

Santorini - A Picture-Perfect Panorama

Santorini, from any angle, epitomises perfection. Although ruggedly bucolic, its charismatic appeal is derived - in part - from such imperfections. The volcanic eruption and subsequent collapse into the sea - believed to have occurred in the sixteenth century BC - transformed the island’s geological foundations, leaving the caldera in existence today.

The surrounding cliffs have been used to the island’s advantage, as an aesthetic appeal: topped with iconic whitewashed Mediterranean houses, the cascade that occurs over the crater’s rim projects an image depicting symbiosis between architecture and natural beauty. With cobbled streets, whitewashed buildings, blue-domed churches and azure waters, Santorini exhibits all check-list features requisite to idyllic island living.

Island Food - Greek Style

Innate to satisfying island life is noteworthy food. After shattering a bottle of red wine – on day one - while dragging his suitcase along the footpath to the hotel, Jorge promised the maître d’ a return visit on a following day. In keeping true to his promise, we returned – numerous times – to sample the reportedly, “best salads on Santorini.”

Although comparable to other restaurants, the food was tasty and made use of the island’s locally-grown produce. The combination of raw red onion, fresh tomatoes, green cucumber, plump green olives, capers and feta – topped with locally produced olive oil and fresh herbs – helped us pleasurably reach a satisfying satiety. This national staple – a complement to its sister salad from Santorini – became my culinary bread and butter. The Greek Salad, a summertime favourite, was nothing less than transcendent.

A Reason for not Visiting Santorini?

If you can contrive any reason against visiting the island-paradise of Santorini, then your mental health is in desperate need of a vacation. Perhaps it’s time you took some much needed time out, booked a fare (see the links below), packed your swimmers and flew to heaven – on the Greek island of Santorini. Disappointment doesn’t exist in the island’s vocabulary; once you’re here, it’ll disappear from yours, too.

Many of the photographs exhibited throughout this article are courtesy of Jorge Pereira.