It’s the epitome of opulence. Lathered in oil money and shimmering with whitewashed, golden-tipped Islamic imagery, it’s hard to conceive anything different from the wealthy country in South East Asia. At least, that’s Brunei Darussalam’s capital, Bandar Seri Begawan.
Get away from the seat of opulence and a new world emerges: dense rainforests peppered with volcanic peaks boast rustic villages and the occasional clouded leopard. After all, Brunei sits in Borneo, the Asian equivalent of the Amazon Rainforest.
However, getting back to basics in the jungle takes time, a little of which I was lacking with my two-day Brunei itinerary. Thankfully, Bandar Seri Begawan, the lavishly-aureate capital you’ve never heard of offers some things to do in Brunei for those short on time.
So, here are my recommendations for things to do in Brunei, starting with the capital.
The sites in the capital are geographically close and can be visited in any order. Masjid Omar Ali Saifuddien is best visited during the afternoon hours, particularly for photographers, when the setting sun’s rays highlight the brilliance of the golden tips.
Disclosure: This article contains affiliate links. If you make a purchase through these links, I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. Thank you for supporting my blog!
Things to Do in Brunei's Capital, Bandar Seri Begawan
Bandar Seri Begawan is a city of contrasts: opulent mosques and quiet markets nestled among the daily hum of life. From the gilded domes of Masjid Omar Ali Saifuddien to the stilted homes of Kampung Ayer, these attractions offer a quick glimpse into the heart of Brunei’s capital.
Marvel at Masjid Omar Ali Saifuddien
Named after the 28th Sultan of Brunei, it’s a national symbol that epitomises the religious inclination of the country. Dominating the skyline, it sits beautifully by Brunei River, a picturesque setting from all angles. Boasting a dome covered in real gold – yes, real gold, it’s the first major nod to the financial constitution of the Sultanate one sees.
Surrounded by gardens, trees, a lagoon (that’s artificial, of course) and foot bridges (one of which was officially inaugurated during my stay in 2017), it’s a lovely place to wander, rest and observe Bruneians going about their daily religious business.
I’m not Muslim, but I enjoyed meandering around the mosque, appreciating its architectural dynamism and throwing smiles at devotees.
Don’t forget to don appropriate attire, as entrance to the mosque – if you wish to see the grand interior – will not be permitted if certain parts are exposed. Legs, shoulders, arms and abdomens must be covered.
Shop for Local Goods at Kianggeh Market (Tamu Kianggeh)
Commenced in the 1960s, the market on the banks of Kianggeh River is a local enterprise, frequented by Bruneians daily in search of fresh produce and other less edible items. It’s also a popular hopping off point for people who live in Kampong Ayer, the ‘village in the water’ on the other side of Brunei River.
There are hundreds of stalls set up in the open air (and some undercover), carpeted in an array of fresh produce: from langkubok, bamboo shoots and medicinal plants to musk-limes and chillies, there was something for every type of tastebud.
Arriving in the morning is key, as stalls begin to close between two and three pm, a lesson I learned on my first day. As it is primarily a local market, it’s a great way for travellers, particularly those interested in local culture, to get a voyeuristic taste of the Bruneian way of life.
Stroll Along the Waterfront Promenade
Redeveloped in 2011 to spice things up and boost the area’s tourist appeal, the Waterfront Promenade is now host to some of the city’s best restaurants, as well as a handful of museums and galleries. There are small signs with snippets of historical information, a panoramic view across to Ayer Kampung and plenty of shops.
It may not be Sydney’s Darling Harbour, however a stroll at dusk is a pleasant way to pass time.
Indulge in Flavours at Tamu Selera Night Market
Bruneians are as obsessed about food as are other nationalities. A visit to a night market, whether Tamu Selera or one in Gadong, is a means to understanding a little more about them.
A veritable feast for my eyes, options abounded as did the delightful aromas caught by my nose. Try the chilli dried squid, which is a national dish, and let your tastebuds do the talking.
I sat on a seat in the centre and was joined intermittently by friendly locals, curious to know a little about me. It’s always a pleasure, when travelling solo, to be able to engage (without compunction) with locals.
Visiting the market demonstrated the fervour Bruneians maintain for food and how it forms a large part of their lives.
Ensure you carry cash, as booths do not accept payment by card.
Explore the Stilted Village of Kampung Ayer
Perhaps the most intriguing and noteworthy facet of the Bruneian capital is the ‘village in the water’, Kampung Ayer.
Located on the opposite side of Brunei River to its modern counterpart, the water village is, characteristically, a series of small neighbourhoods comprised of stilted homes that rise out of the lapping tidal waters. Connected by dubiously ‘safe’ wooden and solid concrete bridges, getting home means arriving by boat and walking to one’s front door over large gaps in the boardwalks.
It was a walk that had my heart pounding, but one I thoroughly enjoyed.
The area once served as the seat of the capital, which has since moved to the mainland. However, despite a mass exodus to the other side, thousands of people still live on stilts above the water and commute to work via boat every day.
The area dates to the 16th century and, although not quite as beautiful, could be construed the Venice of the East.
Hail a water taxi from the Waterfront Promenade and spend a few hours wandering through the villages. Do watch your step, though, as I nearly lost my feet several times through large gaps in the boardwalk.
There are opportunities to pay and stay with a local in a stilted home, something I didn’t do, but wish I had. It would have been idyllic and perhaps nicer than being enclosed in a non-descript hotel room.
Cruise Through Brunei’s Waterways
Iconically Bruneian and inherent to life in Brunei is getting on the water.
Travelling from the city to Ayer is one thing but gliding in and out of inlets and up to Istana Nurul Iman is seeing everything anew, from a different perspective: at water level.
The one-hour tour, a price suitably negotiated with the ‘captain’, included a distant view of the Sultan’s home, a diverse picture of the mosque and a zigzag through and under homes of Kampung Ayer.
If you have a few additional hours to spare, you can travel further upstream (for a marginally higher price) to visit the home of proboscis monkeys, surrounded by beautiful ecosystems teeming with mangroves.
Things to Do in Brunei, Beyond the Capital
Brunei’s treasures extend far beyond the gilded opulence of its capital. From lush rainforests in Ulu Temburong National Park to serene beaches along the coast, the countryside offers a raw and untouched side of the Sultanate – one I didn’t have the time to explore on this visit.
If you're not short on time like I was, then consider including some of these in your Brunei itinerary.
Explore Ulu Temburong National Park
Take a boat ride deep into Brunei’s pristine rainforest and discover the untouched beauty of Ulu Temburong.
Walk along canopy bridges high above the treetops, glide down rivers on a tube, and keep an eye out for hornbills, proboscis monkeys, and other unique wildlife. If you’re up for adventure, the journey to the park itself — by boat and car — is apparently half the fun.
Relax at Muara Beach
Unwind on the golden sands of Muara Beach, just a short drive from the capital.
Stroll along the quiet shoreline, enjoy a seaside picnic with new friends, or watch fishermen bringing in their daily catch. The peaceful setting and shaded picnic areas make it a popular spot.
Experience the Thrills of Jerudong Park Playground
Step into Brunei’s quirky amusement park and enjoy a mix of nostalgia and family-friendly rides.
Wander through the park, catch a dazzling display at the musical fountain, or take a spin on attractions that range from gentle to thrilling. It’s a fun escape, especially for families or anyone seeking a lighthearted outing.
Visit Traditional Longhouses in Tutong
Venture to the Tutong District and explore the traditional longhouses of Brunei’s Indigenous communities.
These homes offer a glimpse into the lives of the Dusun and Iban people, with opportunities to see local crafts, hear traditional stories, or join a cultural performance. It’s a chance to connect with Brunei’s rich heritage in a personal and interactive way.
Tips for Travelling in Brunei
Navigating Brunei is straightforward, but a little preparation can enhance your experience in this small nation. From transportation and accommodation to cultural etiquette, here are some tips to make your trip smooth and enjoyable.
Getting to Brunei Darussalam
Reaching Brunei is relatively simple, with its strategic location in Southeast Asia offering multiple entry points.
By Air
The most convenient way to enter Brunei is by flying into Brunei International Airport (BWN), located just outside Bandar Seri Begawan. It's how I arrived, coming from Malaysia.
Royal Brunei Airlines, the national carrier, offers direct flights from major hubs like Singapore, Kuala Lumpur, and Dubai. Other international airlines, including Singapore Airlines and AirAsia, also connect to Brunei.
By Land
For travellers coming from Malaysian Borneo, overland routes are an option.
Brunei shares borders with the Malaysian states of Sarawak and Sabah. The most common entry point is through the Sungai Tujoh border checkpoint near Miri in Sarawak. Be prepared for visa and customs checks at the crossing.
By Sea
Ferries connect Brunei with neighbouring Malaysia, particularly the island of Labuan. The Serasa Ferry Terminal, located about 20km from Bandar Seri Begawan, is the main port of entry for travellers arriving by sea. Ferries operate regularly, making it a scenic alternative to flying or driving.
Getting Around Brunei Darussalam
Exploring the top things to do in Brunei is easier when you understand your transportation options. Here are the main ways to get around the country.
By Bus
Public buses operate within Bandar Seri Begawan and nearby areas, offering an inexpensive way to get around. However, routes are limited, and schedules may not align with your plans, so they’re best suited for short distances within the city.
Download the TransportBN App for navigating with efficiency (on iOS or Android).
By Water Taxi
To visit Kampung Ayer, the famous water village, hopping on a water taxi is a must. These boats are an affordable and authentic way to navigate the waterways and connect with local life. They can be hailed at the Waterfront Promenade in Bandar Seri Begawan.
By Taxi
Taxis are available but can be scarce and expensive compared to other Southeast Asian nations. They do not typically run on meters, so it’s important to agree on a price before starting your journey. Ride-hailing apps like Dart are more reliable alternatives for travellers.
By Car Rental
Renting a car is the best option for exploring Brunei at your own pace, especially if you plan to visit areas outside Bandar Seri Begawan. Roads are well-maintained, and traffic is minimal, making driving straightforward. Rental cars are available at the airport or in the capital.
Where to Stay in Brunei Darussalam
Brunei offers a range of accommodation options to suit different budgets and preferences, from luxury hotels to budget-friendly lodgings. Here are a few I'd recommend considering.
Budget: EZ Lodgings
For budget travellers, EZ Lodgings in Kampong Gadong offers affordability with practical amenities like a shared kitchen, lounge, and free WiFi. While not centrally located, it’s just 200 meters from The Mall and around 5km from Sultan Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque.
Mid-Range: Al Afiah Hotel
Al Afiah Hotel is a comfortable and practical choice for mid-range travellers. Located just outside the city centre, it’s close to Hua Ho Department Store and within 2km of The Mall and the Royal Regalia Museum. Rooms are modern and well-equipped, with air conditioning, a seating area, and private bathrooms, while some even feature kitchenettes.
Breakfast includes halal, Asian, and buffet options, and the on-site restaurant serves American and Asian cuisine. While it’s not the most central option, its amenities — like a fitness centre, free WiFi, and airport transfers — make it a convenient base for exploring Brunei.
High End: The Empire Brunei
For an unforgettable luxury experience, The Empire Brunei is unmatched in elegance and exclusivity. Overlooking the South China Sea and surrounded by tropical rainforests, this 522-room resort offers unparalleled comfort and tranquility.
You can enjoy expansive rooms with large balconies, dine at multiple international restaurants, relax in one of five swimming pools, or play a round on the Jack Nicklaus-designed golf course with breathtaking views.
From its marble-pillared, gold-accented lobby to its extensive amenities — including cinemas, a spa, and function facilities — The Empire Brunei is perfect for everyone, from couples seeking romance to families planning a fun-filled escape.
What to Eat in Brunei Darussalam
Brunei's cuisine is a flavourful reflection of its cultural mix, with influences from Malaysia, Indonesia, and India. While its culinary scene may not rival that of its neighbours, the nation serves up several dishes that are as hearty as they are memorable.
Food markets, in my opinion, like Tamu Selera or Kianggeh Market are among the best things to do in Brunei for food enthusiasts.
Here’s what I'd recommend you try during your visit.
Nasi Katok
Brunei’s unofficial national dish is as simple as it gets: steamed rice, sambal (spicy chili paste), and a piece of fried chicken. Despite its modest appearance, the fiery sambal packs a punch, making it a staple among locals and a must-try for travellers.
You can find it in night markets or small local eateries scattered across the capital.
Ambuyat
This quirky dish is uniquely Bruneian and a true conversation starter. Made from sago starch, ambuyat has a sticky, glue-like consistency and is eaten by twirling it around a bamboo stick before dipping it into tangy sauces.
Head to Tamu Selera or a traditional restaurant to give it a try and embrace the cultural experience.
Chilli Dried Squid
As mentioned earlier in the Tamu Selera Night Market section, this snack is a local favourite that perfectly balances heat and chewiness. Pair it with other grilled seafood for a feast that truly celebrates Brunei’s coastal heritage.
Kelupis
This traditional dish of glutinous rice wrapped in banana leaves is often served at celebrations but can also be found at markets like Kianggeh Market. Its delicate flavour is enhanced with a side of rendang (spiced meat) or peanut sauce.
Sweet Treats and Beverages
For dessert, indulge in kuih (traditional cakes) like kuih cincin, a sweet and crunchy fried snack, or kuih sapit, crispy coconut-flavoured wafer rolls. Pair them with a cup of teh tarik (pulled tea) or iced bandung, a rose-flavoured milk drink, available at cafes and stalls in Bandar Seri Begawan.
From fiery sambals to sticky ambuyat, Brunei’s food tells a story of simplicity, tradition, and rich flavours. Be sure to explore the local markets and let your taste buds lead the way!
Understanding Cultural Etiquette in Brunei Darussalam
Visiting Brunei means stepping into a society deeply rooted in Islamic traditions, and understanding its cultural etiquette can make your trip smoother and more meaningful.
I found that small gestures, like dressing modestly and respecting prayer times, went a long way in showing appreciation for the local way of life.
Public displays of affection are considered inappropriate, and alcohol is strictly prohibited, so it’s best to plan accordingly.
When visiting landmarks like Masjid Omar Ali Saifuddien, I made sure to cover my arms and legs to respect the dress code, which is a small effort compared to the warmth and kindness I received from locals.
A simple smile, a polite greeting, and a willingness to adapt to local customs will help you connect with Brunei’s people and make your journey all the more rewarding.
Best Time to Visit Brunei Darussalam
Brunei’s tropical climate means warm temperatures and high humidity year-round, but the best time to visit is during the dry season from February to April. During this period, you’ll enjoy sunnier days and minimal rainfall, making it perfect for exploring Bandar Seri Begawan’s iconic mosques or venturing into the lush rainforests of Ulu Temburong.
Safety and Practical Tips for Visiting Brunei Darussalam
Knowing the local customs ensures you can focus on enjoying the best things to do in Brunei safely.
Brunei is one of the safest countries in Southeast Asia, with a low crime rate and a reputation for welcoming visitors. However, it’s essential to understand the nation’s laws and customs, as Brunei follows a strict interpretation of Sharia law, which impacts both locals and travellers.
One sensitive topic to be aware of is Brunei’s stance on LGBTQI+ issues. Since 2019, stricter Sharia-based laws were implemented, criminalising same-sex relationships with severe penalties. While enforcement remains unclear and rarely discussed, public expressions of LGBTQI+ identity are strongly discouraged. I recommend exercising caution if this applies to you, maintaining discretion, and respecting the country’s conservative values to ensure your safety.
On a practical note, Brunei is alcohol-free, so plan to enjoy the trip without drinking. Carry cash for smaller establishments and markets, as credit cards are not widely accepted. Staying hydrated is crucial in the tropical heat, and a reusable water bottle will serve you well.
With respect for the local customs and a little preparation, you can navigate Brunei comfortably and safely.
Conclusion: Things to Do in Brunei
Exploring Brunei is like uncovering two distinct worlds — a tale of two Bruneis. On one hand, you have the gilded mosques and serene waterfronts of the capital, exuding an air of oil-fuelled opulence and Islamic heritage. On the other, the untamed allure of Borneo’s rainforest calls to adventurers seeking raw beauty and a connection with nature.
Bandar Seri Begawan offers a glimpse into the country’s traditions and grandeur, but its charm can feel understated, and the city may not captivate every traveller for long. If I had my time over and I weren't short on time, I would spend only a day in the capital to soak in its highlights before heading to the jungle for a deeper connection with Brunei’s wilder side.
The city, while home to friendly and kind locals, doesn’t exude much joie de vivre and can feel a little underwhelming after visiting its main attractions.
The Bornean jungle, on the other hand, is where Brunei’s true magic likely lies — a realm of dense rainforests, unique wildlife, and an unspoiled ecosystem that echoes the raw beauty of nature. That said, the jungle tours on offer did seem a little touristy, and I always strive to avoid falling into such traps.
Do your research and seek out tours that feel authentic and align with your values as a traveller. Look for guides and operators who prioritise sustainability and offer meaningful experiences beyond surface-level sightseeing.
Brunei’s charm may not be as immediate as its Southeast Asian neighbours, but for those willing to dig deeper, it offers moments of serenity and a chance to connect with a quieter way of life. Whether you stay in the city or venture into the jungle, this tiny nation on Borneo has something to offer — provided you know where to look.