Two Weeks in Jordan: A Solo-Traveller Itinerary

There’s no wonder Jordan is a World Wonder: with welcoming, friendly faces, weathered landscapes and an impressive historical legacy, travellers get authenticity, beauty and hospitality rolled into one experience.  As the Switzerland of the Middle East, there’s no reason for concern notwithstanding dubious travel warnings issued by foreign offices: danger is not on the agenda.  Despite its vicinity to warring neighbours, sandwiched between Syria, Iraq, Palestine, Israel and Egypt, it makes sense alarm is evoked at the mention of travel to the region.  

However, Jordan’s resilience, defensiveness, and neutrality have strengthened over the past decade amid surrounding conflicts.  Beside an open-door refugee policy are a warm heart and soulful smile, gregariously welcoming visitors from the world over.  It’s in Jordan that I saw a side of the Middle East diverse to the image so frequently perpetrated by Western media.  It’s also in Jordan I grew in admiration, for her people, places and personality.  

Here's hoping this itinerary for visiting Jordan will help you plan effectively so you too can have a similarly positive experience.  

Solo Travel Note on Jordan: 

Unlike the ongoing controversy surrounding its neighbours, there is a sense of peace in Jordan that’s reassuring, almost comforting.  You can often feel uneasy when in a place (such as other Middle Eastern nations) on your own.  However, there was only one instance in which an encounter turned mildly aggressive during my two-week stay, a good set of odds I would say.  Walking, eating and taking public transport alone in Jordan, for me, was uneventful.  

I believe Jordan is a great place for solo travellers wishing to get a taste of Middle Eastern exoticism without a side of danger and distress. 

Here is the itinerary I built, as a solo backpacker, for a two-week journey around Jordan before moving on to Israel and Palestine (aka the West Bank). 

AMMAN (عَمّان‎)

A challenge to penetrate, at first, the real dynamism emerges when you spend some time on the streets of Downtown.  It’s here that you begin to see the convergence of culture with which Ammanis identify: Circassians, Palestinians, Iraqis, Libyans and Syrians form part of the national character, having arrived (a result of displacement) voluntarily or as exiles from their homelands.  Add to this the traditions of the Bedouin, and the Amman-beneath-the-surface begins to shine, particularly when you witness personalities jockeying for control. 

As a twentieth-century invention (the ancient ruins comprising no more than a day’s sightseeing), expect a civilized city with rejuvenated neighbourhoods, the new lustre of investment dollars and a buzzing gallery-cum-café scene.  It does lack the history and aroma of its controversial neighbours.  What it loses in antiquity, however, it gains in a burgeoning arts scene, and a geniality that makes it a pleasurable city to visit.     

I spent a while in Amman, using it as a base for regional exploration.  I spent one day seeing the sights.  I spent longer, in the evenings following day trips out of Amman, wandering the streets and letting it get under my skin.  As such, even though not listed as a site of interest (below), I highly recommend taking to the streets, engaging with locals and letting the city and its vibrancy allure you. 

Here are the few historical sights worthy of a visit. 

Amman Citadel

Located high on Jabal al-Qal’a, a hill near downtown Amman, the citadel boasts an almighty array of architecture, having been inhabited by the Romans, Ottomans, Byzantine and Ayyubid.  

I sadly arrived 30 minutes before closing, my time occupied elsewhere in Amman, and couldn’t see the point in rushing around.  However, I wish I’d given it a few hours, as there appeared to be a few relics worth seeing (including the hand of Hercules).  

At 3JD for entry, there’s no reason not to come.  The view alone over Amman is worthy of a visit alone.  

Roman Theatre

There really is a little piece of Rome everywhere, isn’t there?  

The beautifully restored Roman Theatre is perhaps an Amman highlight in terms of ancient architecture and history.  Cut into the side of a hill, it was built in the second century and can sit up to 6000 bottoms at any given time.  

It wasn’t always well-maintained, hence its 1957 reconstruction, which means not every detail is an accurate representation of the theatre that originally was.  I’m not a history expert, so all I saw was architectural finesse linked to the ancient world.  

Visit in the morning for the best shots, as it’s north facing and gets bathed in beautiful sunlight. 

Jordan Museum

It’s a showcase of Jordan from its Nabataean genesis to the current cultural and political climate.  Esteemed as ‘the storyteller of Jordan’ and a ‘national centre for learning and knowledge’, the beautifully presented displays make it perhaps one of the best museums I’ve seen.  

Detailed, informative and aesthetically engaging, the exhibits bring the country’s impressive history to life.  

If you’re not planning a side trip to Israel, then visiting the Jordan Museum is an opportunity to see Jordan’s portion of the Dead Sea Scrolls.  It was time and money well spent.    

BETHANY BEYOND THE JORDAN (المغطس‎)

For many, it’s a dry riverbed at the converge of Jordan and Palestine (or the Palestinian Territory, aka The West Bank).  To the religiously inclined, it means much more.  The act that officially launched Jesus’ earthly ministry - his baptism by John - likely occurred in a perennial riverbed at Wadi Al-Kharrar.  

Comprised of 20 Christian sites, excavated following the initiation of a peace treaty signed in 1994 between Israel and Jordan, spending half a day here is plausible.  

I chose to visit the purported site of baptism, then dropped by the Jordan – via a wooden walkway – to watch Russian Orthodox baptise themselves in the divisional river, on the Palestinian side of the tidal waters; it seemed paradoxical, in a way. 

Drop by the visitor information centre for a map and explanation of the various sites to see.   

As a person raised with Christian beliefs, it was a significant sight to see.  I wasn’t enraptured by the ecclesiastical overtones or religious fervour in which others were swept along but standing beside the site in which Jesus got baptized held meaning.  Jordan, particularly this area, is full of such opportunities. 

Like Mount Nebo (explained below), Bethany Beyond the Jordan is not a site visited in isolation. It can form part of a day trip in which several clustered, close by sites can be visited together.  I saw Bethany Beyond the Jordan and Mount Nebo together, which could easily be grouped – weather permitting – together with a visit to the Dead Sea. 

MOUNT NEBO (جبل نيبو)

Sans restriction in the modern age, the ridge - some 710 metres above sea level - is where Moses was forbidden entrance to the Promised Land by God.  Sweeping views across the Dead Sea, Israel and the Palestinian Territories is the contemporary version of his bleak historical perspective, the panorama that engrossed me on a cool January, winter’s day. 

Standing in front of a church bedecked in ecclesiastical paraphernalia, conceiving the religious implication of the vantage point was beguiling.  

Dead by age 120, it’s believed Moses’ body was buried nearby, a heavily debated subject of conjecture.  With commanding views across the landscape, one can be forgiven for forgetting about hidden burial sites: the view is distractingly ‘transcendent’. 

It should be noted that Mount Nebo forms not a destination in itself but, rather, a part of a cluster of close by sites, all of which can be visited together on a day trip.  

I visited Mount Nebo with Bethany Beyond the Jordan.  In the same area is the Dead Sea, at least the Jordanian side of the large mass, the third component easily seen as part of a day itinerary to the south-west of Amman. 

DESERT CASTLES (قلاع الصحراء)

Stretching to the East from Amman towards Saudi Arabia and Iraq are desert plains, vast, unyielding and regionally peppered with relics of early and medieval Islamic Jordan.  The steppe-like terrain is high on history: castles, forts, towers and palaces all feature in the basalt landscape.  

Given the harsh conditions, barren setting and bipolar weather, survival here seems inane, testament to the ingenuity of the Umayyad caliphs of the seventh and eighth centuries.  It’s thanks to them that such relics exist: building commenced during the time in which they flourished.  Conjecture occurs, though, when the purpose of the desert castles arises, given a lack of defensive design features. 

I spent a day, with new comrades and a driver in tow, visiting a handful of the castles.  The drive through vast desert planes was almost as captivating as was visiting each respective site. 

The following are the three we saw.   

Qasr Al-Kharanah

Standing tall amid a vast plain void of verdant vegetation is Qasr Al-Kharanah, the most picturesque of the desert castles. 

Marked by neighbouring radio pylons and a dramatic structure, it is the only one of the desert castle collection that’s impressive to see from the outside.  Uncertain about its intended purpose, either as a defensive fort, a caravanserai or a retreat for leaders, archaeologists know one thing with conviction: inscriptions date the structure to 711 CE. 

Walking around the perimeter highlighted its height, rigidity and quadrangular nature.  Intended purpose aside, the ‘castle’ – which, to me, failed to meet the requirements I had in mind regarding the notion of castles – provided a satisfying glimpse into Jordan’s history. 

It was the first we saw in the ‘castle loop’ for the day. 

Quseir Amra

Less orthogonal than Qasr Al-Kharanah, Quseir Amra’s curves and mini domes are endearing, but almost belie that which lurks inside: ceilings and walls covered in beautiful frescoes depict caliphs on thrones and rulers of the period. 

The structure was built in the eighth century, intended purpose as a fortress and a pleasure palace replete with a reception hall and hammam.  It now engrosses visitors with a penchant for secular art of the period.  Depictions are many and varied, but include Byzantine portraits, hunting scenes, and inscriptions in Arabic and Greek. 

We spent 30 minutes wandering from hall to hammam, admiring frescoes, recreating scenes of daily eighth century life. 

Qasr Al Azraq

On the highway to Iraq is the aesthetically uninspiring black fortress of Qasr Al Azraq. 

Constructed out of basalt rock, it gives an initial impression of strength and fortification.  With a genesis in the 13^th century, its historical legacy is impressive: initially used by the Romans, Byzantines and Mamluks between the fourth and 13^th centuries and fortified by the Ottoman Turks in the 16^th century, it was here that Lawrence of Arabia resided during the Great Arab Revolt of 1917. 

The internal walls echoed the desert warrior’s name, honourably written in the shifting sands of the surrounding desert.  He comes to life by speaking with the caretaker, whose father served alongside the Brit throughout the Revolt. 

Perhaps the least inspiring in terms of aesthetics, Qasr Al Azraq – for me – won the award of most historically alluring.  It was here that our looped desert castle tour came to an end, our driver safely returning us to Amman.

Although not every traveller’s cup of historical tea, I thoroughly enjoyed the jaunt into the desert, pottering about in ruins and letting my imagination transport me to a time of the exotic past. 

JERASH (جرش)

A very close second to Petra in terms of antiquity and popularity is Jerash, the ruined Roman city in the north of Jordan.  Its temples, theatres, gates and columns speak to a wide audience, a casual wander through the ruins as impressive as a detailed historical guide.  Imperial in nature, getting a feel for life in the second century AD requires - at minimum - three to four hours of your time. 

I took public transport from Amman and spent the better part of a day ambling through the site, returning to Amman before dark. 

It was daunting at first, given the enormity of the site and lack of signs.  I opted to wander alone, but others I saw had employed the knowledge and expertise of a guide.  I prefer to wander at my own pace, taking photographs and letting my imagination run wild as I go.  However, the use of a guide on this occasion would have been beneficial, if only for becoming oriented.  

Guides can be ‘collected’ at the ticket checkpoint.  

The entrance is at the south, close to Hadrian’s Arch. 

Here are the features of old Jerash I saw. 

Hadrian’s Arch (Arch of Hadrian)

It’s an imperial welcome to the Roman site, a walk through the monumental 13-metre high arch at the entrance.  

Erected to welcome second century Roman Emperor Hadrian to Jerash, it was originally twice the height and double the grandeur.  Still befittingly stately, there’s no better way to start a tour of the ancient city than by sashaying through its arches.  

I spent 10-minutes, wandering from side to side, attempting to find the ideal angle for a photograph.  It seems I failed.   

Forum (Oval Plaza)

It’s always breathtaking, come rain, hail or sunshine; a Jordanian acme, thanks to the Romans.  

The curiously oval-shaped plaza, surrounded by unfluted Ionic columns, is the beating heart of old Jerash, the centrepiece on a table of antiquity linking Cardo Maximus with the Temple of Zeus (discussed below).  90 by 80 metres and distinctive, it originally served as the city’s marketplace, the hub of social and political affairs.  It’s now perhaps the main drawcard in a visit to Jerash, travellers, families and staff often found spread around its periphery, eating, observing, basking in the sun. 

Following a brief jaunt around the oval, I made haste for the Temple of Zeus, the best view of the Forum from an aerial perspective. 

Temple of Zeus 

Once a site of holy sacrifice, towering above old Jerash, it’s now a crumbling ruin.  However, parts of the temple remain intact, enough for visitors to adequately appreciate its former glory.  

At the summit of the hill on the southern end of the ancient city, its prime position provides the best platform for viewing the Forum and colonnaded Cardo Maximus, equally beautiful in antiquity.  I visited Temple of Zeus towards the end of the day, for reorientation and broad sweeping views over the ruins. 

Cardo Maximus (Colonnaded Street) 

Possibly the highlight of Jerash, the colonnade-lined principal thoroughfare runs for 800 metres, its length peppered by sites of interest, both left and right.  Complete with ruts worn by chariots, original stones and columns of differing height, walking the length of the road saturates the atmosphere with Rome.

It was during my first walk along Cardo Maximus that the roar of chariots emerged as did the aroma of saffron boiled in wine.  

Let your imagination run wild, as did I, and you too can spend a few minutes in the first and second centuries. 

North Gate

At first, it seemed insignificant, a pair of framed doors spliced by an opening in the wall, leading to a staircase.  

However, I had to invoke imagination to conceive its significance: in its heyday, the opening - flanked by shops – was the gateway that permitted the noblesse and bourgeoisie access to the grand Temple of Artemis. 

Temple of Artemis

Dominating Jerash like the Temple of Zeus, the column-fringed structure was used as both temple and fortress.  Purported to be the most beautiful structure within the city, its prowess and prestige can still be admired, despite the 12^th century fire that ravaged its inner walls.  11 of the 12 original columns can still be seen. 

North Theatre

Used for political debate rather than performance art, the modestly sized second century theatre is discreetly beautiful.  Destroyed by earthquakes and dismantled for other projects, it has since been restored to its former glory and is worth every moment of your time.

Complete with round niches and elegant carvings, hours can be passed with a posse in the sun on the stately steps. 

WADI MUSA (وادي موسى)

Disappointingly tawdry, Wadi Musa – Jordan’s most modern tourist hub – is a stark contrast to other Jordanian cities: unhospitable, tacky, and overpriced.  

It’s no surprise, though: on its doorstep is Petra, a 2007 ‘new seven wonders of the world’ addition, a relic of life preceding Christ and a marvel of mankind.  Wadi Musa doesn’t need to sell itself: Petra does the legwork and, respectfully, is the main drawcard to a southern end trip.  

There’s little to do here, but in all sincerity, following a day of walking through the Pink City (aka Petra), all I wanted was food: entertainment wasn’t on my Musa-menu.     

Petra

A bounty of untold secrets, the Nabataean city – locked in the heart of variegated sandstone escarpments – is the jewel in Jordan’s crown of antiquity.  The pink-hued necropolis has magnetised visitors ever since 19^th century explorer Burckhardt heralded news of its existence in Europe. 

The defining moment arrives when the Treasury emerges, following a wander through the long, winding, narrow Siq maze: it’s a Hellenistic façade carved out of sandstone that impresses even the weariest of visitors.  

With antediluvian sites slung over stony landscapes and an atmosphere that evolves with the fluctuating light of day, it’s by far the most provocative of Jordan’s ancient wonders.

I maintained a mood of ambivalence before arriving, given the hype surrounding Petra: I didn’t want preconceived high expectations being dashed.  Petra, however, blew my mind.  Had I conjured high expectations, they would have been met, given the magnitude of the Rose City’s beauty and historical allure. 

I arrived in Wadi Musa with a new comrade in tow, another solo traveller I’d met in Amman.  Together, we decided to spend two days in Petra (with accommodation in Wadi Musa), discovering her innermost secrets and being charmed.  Two days were enough, in my opinion, to avoid rushing around, becoming overwhelmed by the quantity of beautiful tombs and facades to see.

The site opens at six am year-round and closes at four pm in winter and six pm in summer.  Despite the diminution in tourism over the past few years, Petra is still heavily visited.  For great photographic opportunities, or to simply avoid being trampled, start your visit at 6am.

Consult the official website for entrance fees and further, more up to date information.      

Here is a list of the sights we saw, over two days, in the general order visited. 

DAY ONE – Petra’s Main Sights

1.2 kilometres long, stretching from the entrance to the Treasury, is a canyon (or rather a single block torn apart by tectonic forces) with narrow, vertical walls; one of Petra’s highlights.  Snaking its way towards the hidden city, a slow walk through the slender corridor builds anticipation, an amble punctuated by sites of spiritual significance.  

Take your time, as did I, observe the channels cut into walls, Roman paving, and colours of brilliance, savouring the final moment of reveal at the Treasury.  It was one of the more expectant travel experiences I’ve had.          

The Hellenistic façade is quite unlike anything else in the Nabataean city.  It’s the point at which even indifferent visitors begin to appreciate the prodigy that is Petra. 

An astounding piece of artistry, it is testament to the architectural talent of the Nabataeans.  It is, in fact, a tomb, carved out of sandstone for King Aretas III.  Lore asserts that an Egyptian pharaoh hid treasure within, a tale believed by locals, given the rifle shots found throughout, hence its ‘Treasury’ title.  

Stories aside, for photographers and anyone who appreciates beauty, it’s best visited between nine and 11 am when bathed in sunlight. 

If I had to choose a favourite relic of Petra, along with the millions who’ve already been asked, I’d say it is the Treasury.    

Colloquially named the Street of Facades, the point at which the Siq widens en route to other sites of interest is the Outer Siq, a wall covered in tombs and homes originally built by, you guessed it, the Nabataeans.  

These tombs are easily accessible, and may be worth a little of your time, especially if it’s not limited to a couple of hours.  Ask for advice at the tourist office (at the entrance) regarding the best tomb to visit along the street.  

I didn’t enter any but heard that number 70 is curiously endowed.     

Chiselled out of rock by the Nabataeans and modified by the Romans, building that occurred 2000 or more years ago, the theatre originally seated 3000 spectators.  

Partially intact and set to a multi-hued orange and red backdrop, gaining a sense of its heyday pomp and grandeur is still possible. 

A short walk downhill from the Theatre, where the road widens even further, are a series of burial places burrowed within the cliff face.  

Reached via a set of steps from the valley floor, the Royal Tombs are distinctive, historically significant, and come complete with a remarkable view of the Treasury.  

Included in the collection are Urn, Silk and Palace Tombs. 

The beating heart of Ancient Petra, the Colonnaded Street is patterned like many Roman sites, from east to west.  Built in the second century, sandstone columns originally fringed the thoroughfare alongside porticoes.

Although it didn’t impress me as much as did Petra’s other relics, a walk along the street towards the monastery - with a 10-minute respite under the pistachio street – was old-worldly. 

It’s hidden high in the hills at one of Petra’s farthest reaches, and a visit is certainly worth the few-kilometre wander.  

Similar in style to the Treasury and constructed as a tomb, it’s an ideal place to sit in contemplation.  

There is a tea shop opposite the site, a great vantage point from which to meditate.  

A visit is best done mid-afternoon, when the sunlight bathes the structure in fragments of gold.  

DAY TWO - Madras Trail

After entering Petra via the same route of day one, take the steps – chiselled out of the stone – near the theatre, and walk up the slope.  Following a 30 to 45-minute trek, the summit emerges, a platform where an altar opens to a wonderful panorama. 

The sense of exposure, following day one’s confined spaces, can be dizzying.  However, the mountain terrain all around is sublime, further testimony to the ingenuity and craftsmanship of the Nabataeans.  The site was used as a place of sacrifice by the Nabataeans, of animals, and perhaps humans, too.  

Craig and I decided to take a different route, rather than returning the way we’d come, and were treated to monumental mountain-scapes as well as two additional sites of interest. 

The next site along the Madras Trail is a hall that was used to hold feasts.  

The body that was buried in the Roman Soldier’s Tomb (next) were memorialised annually in the Garden Triclinium.  

Linked originally by a courtyard to the Garden Tomb, it’s a place of intrigue and beauty, with carved decorations on the inner walls.     

Not far from the Triclinium is a façade carved out of red sandstone, the tomb of a Roman soldier, dating to 129 AD.  In fact, not a great deal is known about the tomb and its occupant, heightening the sense of intrigue a visit can invoke. 

The area in which the tomb is found happens to be the point at which Petra is her most colourful, with eroded sandstone walls splashed in palettes of crimson, pink and blue, streaks through the rock that are ethereal.

From here, it’s a matter of walking either the way you came or continuing, which will return you to a point near the Street of Facades. 

WADI RUM (ادي القمر)

Getting a sense of Jordan requires a ride through Wadi Rum, a perspective Lawrence of Arabia had, one that drew him to the rubicund dunes and windswept sandstone.  With extremes in temperature, moody colours, benevolent Bedouin and glorious wilderness scenery, it is everything one expects of the desert. 

Sans permanent infrastructure, the area is largely untouched.  Thankfully, it’s safe, accommodating, and affordably accessible. 

There are numerous companies that offer a variety of desert packages.  They all include transportation (either on four wheels or legs), accommodation, and food. 

Other options vary, depending on the size of the group and length of stay.  I spoke with a few other travellers while in Wadi Musa, who recommended Red Stars as a decent budget tour option. 

As a backpacker, the price and program they offered was ideal.  It included a pickup from Aqaba, something that’s not included in all packages, and all of the features I’d wanted to see.  

Take a look at the ‘Getting Here’ section below for details of how to arrive by public transport. 

This is the itinerary the half day one-night jeep tour followed.  I assume most tours cover the same sights; there’s not much else to see aside from sand, sand and more sand.    

Wadi Rum

It’s the starting point of all Wadi Rum excursions, a village approximately 30 kilometres from the Desert Highway, a short distance past the Visitor’s Centre.  

It’s certainly not a highlight of a desert excursion, merely a meeting and starting point.  It’s where my tour began, at 10 am.   

Lawrence Spring

This is where the real desert fun begins.  

Following a short scramble up a rocky face, the stagnant puddle emerges, but don’t despair: it’s not the unprepossessing spring (the one referred to by the great TE Lawrence himself) that warrants your attention.  Turn around, slowly, and admire the magnificent view of the vast desert landscape.  

I took my time, found a rock on which to sit, and contemplated the desert scene, painted by the hands of God.  It was kind of hypnotic. 

Jebel Khaz’ali Canyon (Siq)

It’s a narrow fissure cut into Jebel Khaz’ali.  

Complete with meaningful Nabataean inscriptions and the changing shadows of day, it’s a fascinating place to spend 15 to 20 minutes.  

It’s only 150 metres deep, so there’s no penetrating to the other side, unless of course you have ropes and a daredevil sense of adventure. 

Wadi Umm Ishrin (Red Sand Dunes)

If you’ve never tried your hand at sandboarding, then it’s at the red sand dunes of Umm Ishrin that you can start.  A convergence of white and red sand, the dunes slope beside a jebel, a cardio-fuelled climb for those (like me) void of aerobic ability.  The reward arrives during the descent.  

Tours usually stop here for 30 minutes, enough time to amble up, tiny step after step, slide back a little, eventually reach the top and rapidly descend.    

Lawrence House

Supposedly the place in which Lawrence of Arabia resided during the revolt, conjecture arises when a line of enquiry requests details.  A pile of rubble, nevertheless, the house isn’t comparable in beauty to the desert scenery that surrounds it.  

I forgot to photograph the bricks strewn messily across the earth, as the desert nearby (pictured above) distracted my attention.     

Jebel Anafishiya

Close to Umm Ishrin is a mountain with Nabataean rock inscriptions.  

It seems as though ancient carvings exist all throughout the region, but the ones shown to visitors are the most prominent of those excavated to date.  

Take your time, try to figure out what you see and discern the meaning behind each image.    

Jabal Umm Fruth Bridge 

Easily climbed without gear (or a guide) is a 20-metre-high stone bridge, formed at the convergence of two mountains in the Wadi Rum desert.  

It’s one of many similar natural occurrences throughout the desert, but the easiest with which to engage minus the acquisition of injuries.  I chose not to climb, following the physical exertion in the sand dunes but rather moved around, trying to find the best perspective for a photograph. 

Sunset Point

Void of a visual, thanks to an eerie winter vapour that had swept across the desert, enveloping the sky and horizon, the group opted for a walk through the siq and red sand dune not far from the Bedouin camp.  

In lieu of sitting expectantly for the golden orb to highlight the magic of the surrounding landscape, the walk only served to intensify the beauty of Wadi Rum, it’s magic evident in every fissure of sandstone, face of mottled rock and grain of variegated sand.

Bedouin Camp 

There are many camps scattered throughout Wadi Rum, but most have features in common: tents complete with bedding, toilets, a communal dining area and a kitchen (used by staff only).  

The Bedouin are a nomadic people, the only ones who are legally permitted to reside in the desert, so everything they have is transportable. 

Star Gazing

Sadly, for my winter desert experience, the sky was not clear, so no stars could be seen.  However, with no fixed residences and little light pollution, the heavens from a Wadi Rum perspective would go on infinitely.  

If you do go star gazing, ensure a flashlight is carried for the outbound and return journeys.  Getting lost in the desert, at night, probably wouldn’t be the kind of adventure that’d satiate adrenaline desires.     

AQABA (عَقَبَة‎‎)

Nestled between Africa and Asia, the Jordanian city is a tourist hub.  Forming the third element of the tourism triangle with Petra and Wadi Rum, there’s good reason visitors spend so much time in the south: hot, dry summers, warm winters, relaxed beachside living, and accessible international travel all form part of the appeal.  After all, the Gulf of Aqaba shares a coastline with Israel, Egypt and Saudi Arabia, so opportunities exist for further international exploration. 

It is a popular hop off point for travellers en route to Israel, the border between Aqaba and Eilat open and friendly.   

A visit out of season can be a little monotonous, as I discovered in early January 2014.  I daresay it’s alive and buzzing during the summer months.  

Here are a handful of laidback options that kept me entertained while in the region; hopefully they do you, too.   

Al-Hussein Bin Ali Mosque

An icon of Aqaba, or at least the most imposing sight you see on arrival, the gleaming white mosque is grand, and was named after the Emir of Mecca.  

A man who initiated the Arab revolt, the mosque has developed a reputation - a symbol of power and strength - and is also a beacon of Islamic architecture, a striking contrast to the hustle of Aqaba with its Red Sea backdrop.  It can be seen from far and wide, so don’t worry if you don’t take a special trip to its large doors: you likely won’t miss out. 

Red Sea

The relatively still waters near Aqaba form part of the Gulf of Aqaba, a north-eastern extension of the Red Sea.  The coastline divided between Jordan, Israel, Egypt and Saudi Arabia, it’s understandable the region is popular, particularly among visitors unafraid of the region’s notoriety perpetrated abroad.  In fact, the Red Sea is home to world class diving locations, thousands of divers attracted annually, with an estimated 200,000 dives.  

Whether it’s sunbathing, swimming, snorkelling or scuba diving you’re after, it can be done (or at least arranged) in Aqaba. 

South Beach 

Still the Gulf of Aqaba, a bus ride or drive out of Aqaba along the Southern Highway takes you to South Beach.  

It may not be the Miami equivalent, but the sandy shores and tidal lapping of Red Sea waters without the hustle and touristy bustle of Aqaba was enough to satisfy my beach bum requirements for a few days.  It’s halfway between Aqaba and the border with Saudi and, to be honest, there’s not much else around.  

It was mid-winter, with moderate temperatures, so I was the only non-Arab tourist at the beach.  Fine for me, as I was often invited to join locals picnicking and barbequing, a feast of fabulous Middle Eastern fare and earnest, authentic cultural engagement.  

I’d recommend staying a little outside of Aqaba, as did I, foregoing a life of convenience for the pleasurable tranquillity that ensues.

ITINERARY FOR VISITING JORDAN - CONCLUSION

So, there you have a fairly detailed itinerary, parts of which can help you in planning your own trip through the Middle Eastern country I liked so much. 

If you have any questions, concerns, suggestions or feedback, please drop me a line via the Contact Me page, or simply write a message below, and I’ll reply when I can. 

Happy and safe travels in Jordan.

ITINERARY FOR VISITING JORDAN - NOTE

There are inclusions and exclusions that can be completed to personalise the itinerary, depending on personal preferences.  It can be done within the timeframes suggested, slowed down or ever accelerated a little.  I opted to spend more time in Amman, returning at the end of the trip for a few days to prepare for my stay in Israel.  However, staying in other locations throughout the country a little longer would definitely be feasible - it's a small country, after all.  

Please feel free to contact me in regard to anything you’ve read in this article.