Egypt, or the mention of it, conjures exoticism: be it the pyramids, Pharaonic masterpieces, the Nile or the Red Sea, a sense of curiosity, intrigue and romanticism is piqued.  It's where stepping back several thousand years requires only a step outside: the streets are a relic of the ancient world and they are peppered with artefacts that date to Pharaonic Egypt.  

If you're a history buff, as am I, then a visit to Egypt is integral, at least once in your lifetime.  There's a certain kind of magic that's attached to sailing along the Nile on a felucca, standing before bare pyramids surrounded by entombed aristocracy, riding through the desert on a camel or snorkelling in the Red Sea - it's all part and parcel of a visit, hence this itinerary for visiting Egypt.  

Granted, political instability over the years has created uncertainty about safety in the region.  I was fortunate to have visited at a time when political entities were changing, a period of quiet and peace.  It started several weeks before I arrived and ended shortly following my departure.  

If you do your research carefully and review the advice of others who've recently visited, then you'll know what to expect amid the current political climate.  

Of course, it's always wise to review the advice your home government issues in terms of visiting other countries, Australia's being Smart Traveller.  Do take advice with a grain of salt as governments assume (or at least should assume) responsibility and accountability for the safety of their citizens so they tend to issue the highest level of warning.  It's why I recommend doing as much research as possible (including reviewing the recommendations of other travellers who've recently visited) so you can make a truly informed and safe decision.  

I certainly hope this itinerary imbues you with an ounce of wanderlust, shifting your gaze and travel plans toward Egypt.  Wandering through the land of old was one of the most rewarding journeys of my travel career.  

Solo Travel Note on Egypt:

Aside from touts who persistently tried capturing my attention - sometimes physically -  to lure me into their shops, I moved almost seamlessly through Egypt, without major issues.  

As a male, it is perhaps easier to avoid being targeted in Middle Eastern nations by some Arab men, although with a healthy dose of blonde hair and an effeminate disposition, I too am often harassed while flying solo.  It wasn't the case in Egypt.  

Egyptians were hospitable, kind and helpful, stepping in to help whenever I needed assistance.  I also met a handful of other travellers with whom I spent some time here and there, people who were kind and fun, too.  Ergo, travelling Egypt on my own wasn't hard.  

Here's hoping you have a similar experience.  

Save this itinerary (and guide) for future reference!

CAIRO (القاهرة)

It's chaotic, rhythmic, enthralling, infuriating and beautiful.  With 22-million inhabitants, there's no wonder the Egyptian capital is always alive with a hum.  Horns continually honk, minarets echo call to prayer throughout the city, Egyptians speak in an animated Arabic to one another in every fissure of the city and a ubiquitous energy pulses rhythmically through the air.  It can be exhausting, overbearing even, but as your lungs congest from the car fumes and your mind frazzles, you'll smile and understand why it's affectionately dubbed the Mother of the World.  I fell a little in love with Cairo and I think she felt the same way.  

There's really no limit to your exploration of the intense capital.  However, to save you experiencing decision fatigue, I'll introduce you to a handful of the city's key attractions, helpful if you only have a day to spare.  

Muhammad Ali Mosque and Sultan al-Nasir Muhammad ibn Qala’un Mosque

Inherent to life in the Arab and Islamic world are mosques.  They're as ubiquitous in Cairo as they are in any other city in which the majority are Islamic devotees.  You'll often hear them before you see them, the sound of call to prayer bouncing through the night air, rousing you from sleep between 4 and 5am.   Architecturally and aesthetically, the two most impressive mosques in Cairo, at least in my opinion, are Muhammad Ali and Sultan al-Nasir Muhammad ibn Qala’un.  Muhammad Ali Mosque is the most prominent, seen from various vantage points when approaching the city.  Inspired by the Ottomans, it's the most dominant, with a height of 52 metres and an equally large central dome. 

Sultan al-Nasir Muhammad ibn Qala’un Mosque, also located in the Citadel of Cairo, is no less impressive with walls constructed of limestone (pillaged from the pyramids) and red granite pillars.  It's several hundred years older than Ali Mosque and, in my personal opinion, the more photogenic of the two.  

Ensure you dress appropriately if you visit either mosque (or any other mosque in the world) by covering shoulders, navels and knees.  

Islamic Cairo

A walk through Islamic Cairo showcases areas around the Citadel and walled city that were established during the 19th and 20th centuries.  It's no more Islamic than other parts of the city, a misconception given the name.  Islamic Cairo merely refers to the areas that were established and flourished in the early period of Islam, a name that distinguishes it from the sites belonging to Ancient Egypt such as Giza.  It's in Islamic Cairo that Islamic tradition is perhaps seen more than elsewhere,  full-length robes outnumbering modern attire.  It's also more pedestrianised than other parts of Cairo and, notably, a little more peaceful.  

Ensure you include the following districts on a walking tour:

• Midan Hussein (the area that contains Khan Al Khalili - outlined separately below) 
• Darb Al Ahmar
• The Citadel all the way to Tulun 

The area is immense and there's so much to see it would take several days.  Do a little more detailed research and choose the sites that pique your interest.  Alternatively, hire a city guide - fluent in your preferred language - who can showcase the highlights.  

Khan el Khalili

Even if shopping isn't your activity of preference, a visit to Khan al Khalili is integral to visiting Cairo merely for seeing how traders have worked since the 14th century.   It's home to a spider's web of snaking, skinny lanes along which are peppered shops selling everything - souvenir pyramids, precious stones, soap and clothing.  If you conjure an image, turn a corner and you'll likely find it, in the flesh.  

I lost countless hours walking the lanes, talking to vendors, tasting peppermint tea and testing my powers of negotiation over stones to gift my sister.  Shops open at 9am and close sometime after the sun disappears (except for Fridays and Sundays).  

Egyptian Museum

Stepping foot inside the Egyptian Museum took my breath away: aside from the lack of ventilation mid-summer, the Pharaonic treasures that filled the cases - including glittering jewellery, mummies and miscellaneous paraphernalia - were otherworldly.  At the time I visited, the museum was overflowing with goods from the ancient world.  Since then, more archaeological discoveries have been made, outdating some relics but all are being showcased together.  You'll be hard-pressed to find room to breathe let alone to move.  But, the reward is in the treasure: even if you don't care about the dynasty from which the glittering jewel originates, merely staring at it will induce the sense of being a child in a sweet shop.  It's a visual kaleidoscope of the world's most important collection of artefacts, a real adventure through time.  

Housed in an ugly pink building in Downtown Cairo, the Egyptian Museum is open between 9am and 5pm. 

Egyptian Hospitality

Egyptians are no strangers to hospitality, a leftover from ancient times when feasts were arranged to honour visiting guests and dignitaries.  In fact, hospitality is so important, a sense of honour has attached it to Egyptian cultural values, something that's endured and is embedded in modern-day etiquette and customs.  I was fortunate to be a figurative 'guest at the table of the banquet', a variety of Egyptians - including Sherif, a man with whom a friendship has endured many years - adopting me into their social circles, making me feel as though Egypt was home.  

If you're open, respectful and willing to engage, then Egypt and her people will treat you with kindness and equal amounts of respect.  Surrounded daily by spirited Egyptians, I truly felt welcome.    

GIZA (الجيزة‎)

Synonymous with the extraordinary Giza Pyramids - a tribute to the ancient world, Giza is perhaps one of the first destinations newcomers to Egypt visit and understandably so.  On the edge of the desert (even though Giza is technically all of Cairo west of the Nile), the extraordinary geometric structures - constructed between 4000 and 5000 years ago - have withstood the test of time.  Built originally to house tombs of the pharaohs, they continue to puzzle historians and archaeologists: how were they constructed?   Theories abound so perhaps you'll conceive your own romanticised notion while exploring the four key sights:  the Great Pyramid of Khufu, the Pyramid of Menkaure, the Pyramid of Khafre and, of course, the Sphinx.  

A visit to Giza necessitates time so ensure you pencil at least half a day into your itinerary.  Sharia Al Haram is the site at which you'll find the main entrance and, at the south end of Pyramids Road is Nazlet As Samaan, the village with an entrance to the Sphinx.  

A cliche, I know, but riding a camel on sandy earth between the masterpieces of the ancient world was a personal highlight of visiting Egypt - try it, even if only for a short ride. 

Don't forget to spend some time in the village prior to returning to Cairo or moving on to your next destination.  

Pyramids of Giza and the Sphinx

Constructed by large teams of workers, the pyramids are living testimony of the ingenuity, intelligence and organisation of the ancient Egyptians.  Standing before the mighty structures inspires awe even in the least history-keen observer.  The Great Pyramid of Giza is, in fact, the only remaining of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World, a structure of classical antiquity that's also the oldest of the seven - an indicator of how clever its designers must have been.  

History of the Complex 

The entire area, dubbed the Giza Complex, comprises the Giza Necropolis, the Sphinx, the Pyramids and Valley Temple of Khafre.  As history goes, Giza served as the burial grounds for royals of the ancient world.  Ergo, the Pyramids of Giza were purpose-built between 2613 and 2498 BC to honour the kings of the day.  Interestingly, the structures were constructed on the west of the Nile, the side on which the sun sets, as ancient Egyptians believed only the living should be on the east where the sun rises.  

Practicalities of Visiting - Getting Around

Distances between each pyramid are quite extensive so, even though you may feel touristy doing so, get yourself a camel (for 50 LE - a price you'll need to negotiate to achieve) or a horse from a nearby stable (including NB and FB stables - prices are likely going to be fairer and rentals longer than those offered inside the site).  I hired and rode a camel but made the mistake of failing to check and see if it was an agreeable and healthy animal before getting between its humps.  Part way through exploration, it turned and made haste for something on the horizon, in the opposite direction of the pyramids.  Getting it to stop was a task, the guide forced to use a motorcycle to catch us and stop the free-spirited animal.  

What to See and Do

Mentioned previously, there are four key sites to visit: the Great Pyramid of Khufu, the Pyramid of Menkaure, the Pyramid of Khafre and the Sphinx.  The Great Pyramid is always open.  The other two pyramids alternate, year in year out.  Yes, you can enter the Great Pyramid, tickets for doing so available at the main entrance ticket office (with prices listed below).  

What can you do?  Here are a few ideas: 

• Visit the Great Pyramid (inside and out) 
• Take a photo with it and one beside the Sphinx 
• Spend time riding a camel or a horse 
• Visit at sunset (if you can) by camel or horse 

Tickets, Prices and General Information

A set number of general tickets are available each day so ensure you arrive early and queue so as not to miss out.  Times - and tickets - are split between the morning (8am) and the afternoon (1pm with closing at 4pm which is stretched to 5pm in summer).  Ticket prices are:

• 120 LE 
• 60 LE for students 
• 300 LE extra to explore the inner sanctum of the Great Pyramid 

You're also charged for using tripods - it's normal, across the country.  

Crowds are a given, regardless of the time of day or year in which you visit.  Don't be afraid (once you've ditched your camel or horse) to wander around - in a state of contemplation, find a quiet pocket and take a moment to appreciate the immensity of the site.  You might end up finding some unique angles from which to capture the essence of the pyramids.  

ASWAN (أسوان‎)

The pace is slow, the serenity a haven (especially after visiting Cairo) and the river wide and languorous.   Aswan, the southernmost and smallest of the three tourist cities dotted along the Nile, is a place that cannot and should not be hurried.  Strategically positioned in ancient times as a garrison for military campaigns, the sleepy hollow is now home to Nubian villages peppered along the water's edge.  It's also where you'll be able to access the wonders of Abu Simbel and Philae Temple.  

Here are the sights I visited - prior to sailing to Luxor on a felucca - and recommend you consider putting on your Aswan-itinerary.  

Nubian Museum

Located at the southern tip of Aswan (with fluctuating entry prices), the Nubian Museum is home to a wealth of Nubian treasure that was rescued during construction of the Aswan High Dam in the 1960s.   The collection tells the enduring story of the Nubians, an ethnolinguistic indigenous group who belong to Sudan and southern Egypt, people originally from the central Nile valley.  

You cannot see all 3,000 objects in a several-hour visit so plan accordingly and choose the sections that interest you most.  I found the collections I saw - which included artefacts of art, pottery and statues - to be beautifully displayed with explanations that were clear and easy to understand.  Expect to be solo as the museum is not frequently visited.  

Aswan High Dam

Built throughout the 1960s, the Aswan High Dam is a rockfill basin which captures water from the world's longest river, the Nile, in Lake Nasser.  Controversial due to the potential flooding of Nubian artefacts and the relocation of 90,000 Nubian people (to Sudan and other parts of Egypt) during construction, the dam has proven to be helpful in controlling annual Nile floods that used to wreak havoc in floodplains.  Construction was monumental, 18 times the amount of materials used than that which was utilised for building the Great Pyramid - a modern day feat, I guess.  

It's perhaps not the most intriguing site to see particularly with the likes of Abu Simbel nearby.  However, it's generally included as part of an organised tour to see Philae Temple.  For me, it was a 10-minute stop and photo snap en route to Philae.   

Saint Simeon Monastery

Aesthetically akin to a fortress, the 7th-century St Simeon monastery - dedicated to saint Anba Hedra - is idyllic, set amid the shifting sands of the desert on the west bank of the Nile.  At one point in history it was home to 1000 monks and was rebuilt following partial destruction in 1173.  Despite being vacant since the 13th-century, I thought it to be in surprisingly good shape and was able to see some feint frescoes scattered throughout.  

There's not much else on this side of the river, aside from the desert which stretches up to the river's edge and the Tombs of the Nobles.  Ergo, you'll need to be really curious to take a boat across the Nile to the west bank.  If you do traverse the river - either privately or via ferry, visit the Tombs then ride a donkey to the monastery.  

At the time of visiting, the monastery cost 25 LE for an adult.  

Temple of Isis at Philae

The journey to the Temple of Isis, perched on an island (previously Philae and now Agilika) in the  middle of the Nile, begins with a boat ride along the meandering river.  Built in the 7th century BC to honour goddess Isis - originally on the island of Philae, the temple was the last to be constructed in classical Egyptian style.  It was painstakingly moved between 1972 and 1980 - thanks to a multinational UNESCO team - from Philae to Agilika to avoid complete submersion in Nile waters which would have eventually occurred, a result of opening the Aswan High Dam.  Prior to its relocation, it would partially flood every year, an adventure for pilgrims who could visit on boats.  It now sits 20-metres higher than it used to and its new home of Agilika island has been manicured to resemble Philae, now covered by Nile waters.  

It's comprised of multiple sanctuaries, gates, temples and inscriptions, all of which I found to be beautiful particularly when bathed in the golden light of dusk.  It was well worth a visit if only to appreciate the ingenuity in moving every single block, via boats, from one island to the next over an 8-year period.  

Abu Simbel

Built by Ramases II, the temples of Abu Simbel are yet another engineering feat of the ancient world.  What's just as impressive is their relocation, a block-by-block task that occurred in the 1960s to protect them from flooding, costing US$40 million.  It took four years to complete.  The current site, 210 metres away from the original location and a bit higher, is comprised of the original two temples: the Great Temple of Ramases II and the Temple of Hathor. 

I stood in awe before the entrance to the Great Temple of Ramases II, wholly impressed by the magnitude of its dimensions and colossal nature of the four giant statues sitting at the entrance, observing the traffic moving through.  The magnetism continued as I walked through the interior, hieroglyphics and inscriptions covering the walls and columns, telling stories of a bygone world.  I couldn't help but be drawn back in time, to an ancient world of wonderment, exoticism, mystique and prowess. 

Most visitors visit Abu Simbel on an organised tour from Aswan, which is what I opted to do.  Minivans depart Aswan early in the morning and return after a several-hour visit at Abu Simbel.  The driver of the minivan in which I was placed was reckless, hurtling along the road at nearly 200 kilometres/hour.  He fell asleep at one point which was truly fear-inspiring, more so than the eight eyes watching me as I entered the temple.  Ask about road and driving safety standards when booking tours at your respective lodgings.  

THE NILE (النيل)

There are few – if any - more unique Egyptian experiences than moving with the north-bound current along the Nile on board a felucca.  Lounging on woven rugs, blankets and cushions, wind gently brushing against reddened cheeks, watch as life unfolds on the river’s banks: men bathe in tidal waters, some washing clothes, while children play and camels stand at the edge replenishing fluids.  Used for centuries as a viable means of transport – propelled by wind in canvas sails, the wooden vessel is iconic.  Manned by mostly Nubian crew, setting sail on a felucca is akin to stepping back several centuries - a journey through the Nile’s history.  A trip from Aswan to Luxor is slow, languorous even, the rhythmic sound of tidal waters lapping the wooden base a needed escape from the mania that exists elsewhere in the country.  

Aside from visiting the Giza Pyramids and the mummy of Tutankhamun, living on board a felucca for 3 nights was a highlight of my time in Egypt. 

Here are a few things you can expect and others you need to know prior to hopping on board and setting sail. 

Sailing on a Felucca

The journey I took commenced in Aswan, introductions between the crew, the two other passengers and I made on the banks of the Nile.  I’d been fortunate to befriend a spirited soul in Cairo who put me in contact with his Nubian friend – the captain of a felucca – in Aswan.  Prices were set and the itinerary planned accordingly. 

Unhurried, we moved northbound, sailing with the current through the day, stopping at a new location on the banks before 8pm each night to sleep.  Feluccas aren’t permitted to traverse Nile waters after this time.  During daylight hours, all six of us became acquainted, chatting, laughing, swimming and eating together.  The crew were gregarious and inclusive, at one point trying to teach us how to rig a sail, a task at which I miserably failed. Food was prepared on board and, although basic due to minimal cooking facilities, I was filled to satiety at every meal.  I did grow a little tired of falafel and pita towards the final day, though.    

The felucca was spacious, ample room for all 6 bodies on board to lounge about, relax and have some personal space if required.  Formally, carriage capacity is restricted to 8 people, a minimum of 6 required to set sail.  

Throughout the day, we made stops at various points along the bank of the Nile, ample time to use a toilet (which meant digging a hole in the sand if required), go for a stroll and meet some locals if they happened to be nearby.  It was also an opportunity to go swimming.  There are no crocodiles and the current is apparently fast enough (in most places) so that schistosomiasis is not a problem.  However, I didn't want a parasitic infection while on board a boat without facilities so I  opted not to swim.  Do your research and decide if you wish to take the risk.  

Overall, it was an engaging, entertaining and iconic journey, a trip through time I'm so glad I took.  

Felucca Practicalities

• Do relevant checks to ensure the felucca is of sound and safe quality and all key equipment is present before signing up with a captain.  There should be blankets, a sunshade and cooking/eating implements
• Ensure food is part of the package/price otherwise you'll be left feeling hungry by the end of day one.  Take snacks with you as you might get hungry between meals
• Pack toilet paper and be mentally prepared to go to toilet overboard or find a private space when the felucca docks.  There are likely to be no available toilets, at least not through the day.  They'll be easier to find at night as feluccas tend to dock near villages or towns
• If you're not used to sharing intimate spaces with strangers, ask to meet the other passengers prior to setting sail.  It may make things less uncomfortable during the journey 
• Ensure you know where you're being dropped off and have transport arranged to collect you at the final destination if required 
• Bring anything you think you'll need with you as you'll not be able to access commodities while moving along the Nile.  Consider things like a sleeping bag or silk liner, insect repellant, sunscreen and lots of bottled water 

LUXOR (الأقص)

It's where history really comes to life, a treasure chest of antiquity from ancient Thebes.  Luxor is a living open-air museum and visiting means making a date with relics that have survived for thousands of years.   It's an extraordinary place, overwhelming, even: knowing where to start exploration can be confounding. At least there's no shortage of options: from Karnak on the east to the tombs on the west bank, there are so many riches seeing them all would take a lifetime. Careful planning is thus required as is a bit of tenacity and ruthless decision-making (unless, of course, you have an eternity to pass in Luxor). 

Here are a few of the key sights that warrant your attention and could - or should - be inserted into your itinerary. 

Karnak aka the Karnak Temple Complex

Situated on the east bank is a complex of gigantic proportions, complete with obelisks, temples, pylons and sanctuaries, all constructed to venerate Theban gods and glorify pharaohs.  The most important place of worship under Egypt's New Kingdom, Karnak is living testimony of how the Egyptians of old felt about religion and spirituality.  It covers a swathe of earth, 2 square kilometres to be precise, a site that requires multiple visits to explore in detail and appreciate.  

The most prominent features include the Temple of Amun and the Temple of Amun-Ra, the latter complete with columns shaped like papyrus.  You need not necessarily learn the history of every key feature to truly appreciate the site: a wander alone around the complex will imbue a sense of awe.  Take your time, get a guide if you wish and try to conceptualise life in the 18th, 19th and 20th dynasties unfolding before your eyes.  

I visited in the afternoon when the structures were bathed in glorious tones of yellow and gold from the setting sun.  I'd recommend going in the morning, though, on two consecutive days to avoid the masses and get an opportunity to appreciate the magnitude of the site, avert the risk of midday-induced heatstroke and see more than you might by rushing through in one go.  

Valley of the Kings

The Valley of the Kings is where 63 royal tombs can be found, a burial ground on the west bank of the Nile, a site cherry picked by the pharaohs of the New Kingdom between 1550 and 1069 BC.  If you really want to feel as though you are part of ancient Egypt, then taking time to move your eyes along the mummified corpse of a pharaoh should do the trick.  

An entry ticket provides access to three tombs.  However, if you want to see the tombs of Ay, Tutankhamun, Seti I or Ramses VI, as did I, then you'll need to purchase an extra ticket.   

Take sun protection and plenty of water as the road into the site is inclined, dry and very hot particularly if you are not visiting during the winter months.  For 4 LE extra, you can take an electrical train between the visitors centre and the tombs, a good idea during the summer months - it's money well-spent.  

Note that photography is forbidden in all tombs.  Mind you, it didn't stop the man guarding Tutankhamun's corpse from requesting a bribe in exchange for a photo of the mummy.  As tempting as it was, I resisted,  one due to ethics and two due to the damage that's already been incurred over the years, from human sweat (thanks to mass tourism), floods and treasure hunters.  These relics of the ancient world need to be preserved for future generations to see.  

Luxor Temple

In the heart of modern Luxor, the temple is another striking feature descendent of the ancient world, a relic constructed under the watchful eye of pharaohs in the New Kingdom.  It was primarily used as a means of celebration, a joining of statues from other temples.  Parts of the structure were developed by Alexander the Great and the Romans, the latter of whom enclosed the temple with a fort. 

It’s perhaps not as extensive as Karnak but it’s nonetheless interesting, a walk back in time particularly the deeper you penetrate inside the temple.  Every detail is significant so get yourself a good history book or guide who can fill you in on the details as you walk around the complex (if you’re interested in learning about the lives of the ancient Egyptians in terms of worship).

If you can, visit at night when the temple is romanticised by ambient lighting.  I visited early in the morning to avoid the crowds that come during the day.   

Temple of Deir al-Bahri (Queen Hatshepsut’s Temple)

One of Egypt’s first female rulers, Queen – aka pharaoh - Hatshepsut was a mighty woman, regal, intelligent, devoted and fair.  Beneath the cliffs of Deir el Bahri on the west bank of the Nile is where you can visit her crowning achievement, a temple (known as Temple of Deir al-Bahri or Queen Hatshepsut’s Temple) with pillared porticoes, beautiful reliefs and an iconic spot, amid the desert landscape and beside the Temple of Mentuhotep II – a signature of power, confirming her unique position among the kings.  

To give herself credibility, I guess, in a powerful kingdom mostly dominated by male rulers, she recreated her image by means of the statues through which she would be portrayed to others: they gradually evolved to resemble a man’s body that was dressed in pharaonic attire (with a beard to boot).  It was a true symbol of power, a legacy she hoped would endure following her death.  Although subsequent leaders attempted to destroy them, the temple remains and is a true masterpiece, one of the most beautiful in the world per the opinion of many scholars and historians. 

It really is a masterpiece, one I thoroughly enjoyed visiting in the mid-afternoon.  It does get hot so ensure, like with all of the sites listed here, you have water and appropriate sun protection.   

Luxor Museum

Filled to the brims with beautiful artefacts, Luxor Museum - established in 1975 - is home to 4000 years of Egyptian history.  It's also where you'll find various insignia from Tutenkhamun’s tomb.  Some can get history-overload-cum-fatigue while in Luxor, given the immensity of sites and artefacts to see.  Why should you visit the museum, then?  The jewellery, canopic jars from Mothucalled Pady-Imenet's tomb (meaning the internal organs from the body) and the artwork - it's all very impressive, or at least it was to me.  

Opening times are variable depending on the time of year.  Tickets are 70 EP for adults and 35 EP for students. The museum can be found on Center Corniche Avenue, in a two-storey building, overlooking the west bank of the Nile. 

Medinet Habu

The temple, built to commemorate Rameses III - fronted by a village with mountains as a backdrop - can be found on the Nile's west bank and is a key symbol of Thebian economic life.  It was filled with administrative buildings, workshops and rooms for priests to sleep and rest.  Medinet Habu was still in use during the 9th century AD, a centrepiece of Christian worship. 

Enter through the Syrian Gate, stay to the left and go upstairs.  It's here that you'll find some great views of the land.  Take your time, wander about and imagine yourself as an official several thousand years ago moving with others through the lively and spirited hallways, rooms and doors.  

Valley of the Queens

It's here where you'll find 75 tombs, each belonging to a Queen who reigned during the 19th and 20th dynasties of ancient Egypt.  There are only four open for viewing, including those of Titi, Khaemwaset, Amunherkhepshef and Nefertari.  The site is slightly south-west of the Valley of the Kings.  Dubbed Ta-Set-Neferu, meaning 'place of beauty', it's easy to see why the name was coined given the surrounding landscape.  

The most prominent tomb is that of Nefertari (which was closed when I visited, prior to 2016), one of the most respected women in ancient Egypt, the wife of Ramases the Great.  A separate ticket is required to visit her tomb.  

DAHAB (دهب)

A haven for solo and independent travellers, Dahab was a world away from the infinitely-beating tourist-filled Red Sea hub of Sharm El-Sheikh. Laid-back and tranquil, getting into the diurnal swing of Red Sea living - and loving - was seamless. It’s what I appreciated most about the low-key boho-imbued coastal town.

Nowadays, the pace has kicked up a notch and, although there are no high-rises, finding an isolated stretch of sand on which to idly laze is less likely. However, the requisite drawcards remain: world-class diving; equally beautiful snorkelling; seaside living; and desert exploring - they're all at your fingertips.

The mellow vibes haven’t altogether disappeared, they just require time to find and appreciate. 

And yes, time is a key feature in Dahab, enough required to truly unwind (particularly after having visited Luxor’s multitude of sights) and engage in the following activities. 

Eel Garden 

Embarrassingly, I’m afraid of the dark and sinister places that lurk beneath the water’s surface. So, I’ve never been diving. Ergo, personal recommendations for squirming around the slimy suckers 1 to 30 metres beneath the surface in the Eel Garden cannot be made. But, it’s not to say you shouldn’t try: the vision of the timid creatures stretching out of holes in the sand would be, without question, otherworldly. 

You can snorkel in the area but I wasn’t privy to this information prior to making the decision not to visit.   I perhaps would have done so had I known it were possible.  

If I one day overcome my fear I will return to explore undersea garden, home to a vast array of marine life.

Note that the photo above is courtesy of a friend.  

Friday Market

Commencing the year I visited, the market - held near the Eel Garden on the beach - is where you’ll see the real and original spirit of the area. Dahabians exhibit their lives to the public and provide visitors with a taste of life in the region. Taste your way through local flavours or scoop up a craft to take home as a keepsake. I grabbed a bite to eat then strolled around, chatting to locals in the hot afternoon sun. 

The market is held every Friday between 2 and 5 pm in summer and 12 to 4pm in winter. 

Laguna (sunset)

Although you’ll likely be going to Mt Sinai to watch the sunrise (detailed below), catching it on the other side - a little closer to home - can be just as magical.  

Head to Laguna, located at the southern end of Dahab where kitesurfers often hang out, in the late afternoon. There, you can relax and enjoy the sight of the sky splintering on the horizon, which is truly dramatic. Although, in my opinion, it doesn't compare to the breathtaking beauty of watching the sunrise while sitting atop Mount Sinai.

MOUNT SINAI (جَبَل مُوسَىٰ‎)

Rooted in ecclesiastical origins, the mountain – synonymous with Moses’s receipt of the ten commandments – plays host to innumerable Christian, Jewish and Islamic pilgrims every year. Given abundant mention throughout the Book of Exodus, it has become a place of sacred significance to zealots worldwide. Even though the biblical message focuses on the commandments, a visit to the purportedly holy site is nonetheless impressive thanks to the sunrise – apparently one of the best in the Middle East.

Trekking to the top of Mt Sinai is thus an otherworldly experience, a hike I'm so glad I did despite the early morning start.  

Trekking and Sunrise

As the night hours clocked over to the morning and rolled on toward dawn, following a successful ascent in near dark, new faces emerged from the footpath, forlorn yet filled with anticipation. The atmosphere evolved as nervous energy filled the air: the sun’s arrival was imminent – perched only inches behind the horizon.  As darkness began surrendering to the night, colours of vibrancy emerged and froze, shattering the black expanse of heaven – each for a moment in time.  There was magic in the air and I was struck with an overwhelming sense of awe.  

Regardless of ecclesiastical dispositions, walking to the summit of Mt Sinai is a must-do adventure. The beauty exhibited by Mother Nature will leave you breathless.

Read my account of the experience here. 

St Catherine's Monastery

On your way home, don't forget to stop at the Monastery in the foothills - it's on the way out.   Built in the sixth century, the monastery was named after Catherine of Alexandria, a martyr whose body was hooked on a spiked wheel, tortured, then beheaded, all because of her faith.  The monastery is apparently one of the oldest functioning communities of monastic life in the world.  

I personally didn't enjoy the visit but perhaps I was on edge due to sleep deprivation and ill health.  

ITINERARY FOR VISITING EGYPT - CONCLUSION

There you have the journey I undertook as a solo backpacker in Egypt, the starting point of a Cairo-to-Cape Town overland itinerary.  I'm often filled with nostalgia when I daydream about sailing down the Nile, wandering around the Pyramids or catching sight of an embalmed pharaoh.  Each country is unique, of course, but there are truly no other places on earth quite like Egypt.  

It's engrossing.  It's hospitable.  It's a masterpiece of the ancient world.   It got under my skin and I daresay it'll get under yours, too.  

ITINERARY FOR VISITING EGYPT - NOTE

There are inclusions and exclusions that can be completed to personalise the itinerary, depending on personal preferences.  It can be done within the timeframes suggested, slowed down or even accelerated a little.  It really does depend on you, your budget, preferences and time constraints.  

Realistically, this itinerary could be completed in two weeks, or even in 10 days if you're willing to rush a little. However, I prefer to take it slow these days and absorb as much as I can while en route. For me, it's really about the journey, not the final destination.

Please feel free to contact me regarding anything you’ve read in this article.