Sri Lanka isn’t just a place you visit; it’s a place that leaves its mark on you.
I didn’t come here looking for postcard-perfect beaches or a checklist of ancient ruins. Instead, I came with curiosity — to explore, connect, and understand a land that pulses with life in ways both subtle and profound. From the rattle of a train winding through emerald tea plantations to a simple meal shared with a family in their home, my journey here was about finding meaning in the details.
In this guide, I’ll take you through the same experiences that shaped my time in Sri Lanka. You’ll walk ancient cities, climb sacred rocks, and savour meals that speak of the island’s soul.
But more than that, you’ll get a glimpse into the moments that made it unforgettable for me — moments of stillness, laughter, and awe.
If you’re planning your own Sri Lanka itinerary, or even if you’re just dreaming about one, let me show you why this place is worth every mile.
Note that while I’ve structured this itinerary with two days for most destinations, it’s worth considering that part of each of those two days was often spent travelling — either arriving at the destination or heading to the next. I often only spent one night in each place.
You may want to adjust your schedule if you prefer a full two days and nights at each location.
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Solo Travel Insights from My Sri Lanka Itinerary
Solo travel in Sri Lanka was more than just a series of destinations — it was a collection of shared moments, unexpected connections, and little victories.
I remember sitting on a rickety bus, squished against a window as the driver careened around bends, while a local man next to me insisted on teaching me a few Sinhala phrases despite my protests that I’d surely butcher them. It wasn’t smooth, and it definitely wasn’t glamorous, but it was genuine, and that’s what made it special.
Every hiccup felt like an invitation for connection — whether it was figuring out schedules with a group of travellers or accepting a stranger’s offer to share tea while waiting for transport.
There’s an honesty to travelling solo here. The streets aren’t meticulously curated for tourists, and the journey is far from predictable. Getting lost in the maze of Colombo’s Pettah Market didn’t lead to frustration — it led to a vendor offering directions and a chat about cricket.
Hiking up Sigiriya alone felt more like an accomplishment when locals at the top greeted me with proud smiles and pointed out the landmarks below. English isn’t universal, but it’s common enough to bridge the gaps, and any barriers were met with the kind of human kindness that reminds you why you love travel in the first place.
If you’re up for a bit of unpredictability, Sri Lanka will meet you halfway — with warmth, grit, and moments you won’t forget.
Sri Lanka Itinerary: Overview
➡ Days 1–2: Colombo
Start your journey in Sri Lanka’s bustling capital. Visit the Gangaramaya Temple, explore the chaotic yet colorful Pettah Market, and take an evening stroll along Galle Face Green. Learn about the country’s history at the National Museum of Colombo.
Don’t rush here — Colombo’s grit and energy offer a fascinating introduction to the island.
➡ Days 3–4: Anuradhapura
Travel north to Sri Lanka’s ancient city, a UNESCO World Heritage site.
See the sacred Sri Maha Bodhi tree, Ruwanwelisaya Stupa, and the serene Isurumuniya Temple. Wander through the Twin Ponds and marvel at the ruins of this once-thriving kingdom. It’s a peaceful contrast to Colombo’s urban chaos.
➡ Days 5–6: Sigiriya and Surrounds
Discover Sri Lanka’s iconic Sigiriya Rock Fortress. Climb to the top for panoramic views,
Don't miss nearby Pidurangala Rock for a quieter experience at sunrise or sunset.
➡ Days 7–8: Kandy
Head to Kandy, the cultural capital. Visit the Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic and stroll around Kandy Lake.
Take an evening walk through the town’s lively markets or relax with a cup of tea.
➡ Day 9: Kandy to Ella Train Journey
Take the famous train ride from Kandy to Ella. Pass through tea plantations, misty mountains, and lush valleys.
Sit by the open doors or hang out of the carriage (safely!) for unforgettable views.
➡ Day 10: Ella
Hike Little Adam’s Peak, visit the Nine Arches Bridge, and take on the climb to Ella Rock for sunrise.
Ella’s laid-back vibe and cooler climate make it a perfect spot to recharge.
➡ Days 11–12: Haputale and Lipton’s Seat
Travel to Haputale to immerse yourself in Sri Lanka’s tea country. Visit Lipton’s Seat for breathtaking views and tour the Dambatenne Tea Factory to learn about the tea-making process.
The quiet charm of this area is worth savouring.
➡ Day 13: Ratnapura
Travel to Ratnapura, the “City of Gems,” known for its gemstone mines and lush landscapes. Explore gem museums and shops to learn about the country’s famed sapphires.
Make a purchase to take home as a keepsake.
➡ Days 14–16: Unawatuna
End your trip by the southern coast. Relax on Unawatuna Beach, take a cooking class, or try yoga. Explore the historic Galle Fort, a UNESCO World Heritage site, and stroll along its ramparts.
Soak in the laid-back coastal vibes before heading back to Colombo or continuing your journey.
Save this itinerary for future reference!
COLOMBO (Days 1-2)
Colombo was where my Sri Lankan adventure began, and it turned out to be the perfect starting point. A city that never fully slows down, its mix of colonial buildings and bustling markets gives you a crash course on Sri Lanka.
My experience, though, was uniquely personal.
I stayed with a school friend I hadn’t seen in over a decade, who happened to be working in Sri Lanka at the time. It was one of those serendipitous moments: she saw my Facebook post about visiting, reached out, and invited me to stay at her place. Not only did it save me from navigating the chaos of Colombo alone, but it also gave me an insider’s perspective on the city.
With her help, I mapped out the rest of my trip over cups of tea and lively conversation, and she introduced me to some of her local friends, which added a deeper layer to my experience.
With her insights, I learned how there's a blend of chaos and calm that defines Colombo perfectly, making it more than a transit hub.
From iconic landmarks like the Gangaramaya Temple to the displays at the National Museum of Colombo, the city offers plenty. But what made Colombo special for me wasn’t just the sights — it was the warmth of the people I met and the chance to reconnect with an old friend.
It set the tone for the rest of my journey through Sri Lanka, reminding me that the best travel experiences are often those where people play the starring role.
Top Attractions and Activities in Colombo
Explore Colombo’s markets, temples, green spaces, and museums to experience the city’s culture and daily life.
For a unique way to see the city, consider a guided tuk-tuk tour that takes you to the sites outlined below. With both morning and afternoon options, it’s a flexible and authentic way to discover Colombo.
➡ Learn more and book your tour here
Gangaramaya Temple
Gangaramaya Temple is one of Colombo’s most iconic landmarks, blending traditional Sri Lankan architecture with unique touches of Thai, Indian, and Chinese design. Located near Beira Lake, it serves as both a place of worship and a centre for learning.
I visited this temple early in my stay and was struck by its eclectic mix of sacred relics, Buddha statues, and even quirky artefacts. The temple seemed to embody Colombo’s character — a blend of the sacred and the unexpected.
It’s a peaceful spot to observe local customs and gain insight into Sri Lanka’s Buddhist heritage.
Don’t forget to explore the library and museum areas. Modest attire is required, so plan accordingly if you want to step inside.
Pettah Market
Pettah Market is Colombo’s chaotic and colourful heart, a sprawling maze of stalls and shops where you can find just about anything. From fragrant spices and fresh produce to electronics and textiles, every corner hums with energy and activity.
Wandering through the market, I felt swept up in the rhythm of the city. Vendors called out their wares, carts clattered over cobblestones, and the air was thick with the scent of ripe fruit and curry leaves. I stopped at a stall to buy some snacks and ended up chatting with the seller, who eagerly asked about my travels and offered recommendations.
It’s a sensory overload, but it’s also the perfect place to get a feel for local life. Be ready to haggle, keep your belongings secure, and let yourself get a little lost — that’s half the fun.
Pettah Market is less about ticking items off a list and more about soaking up the atmosphere.
Galle Face Green
Galle Face Green is a stretch of open space by the Indian Ocean, where Colombo comes to unwind. It’s a snapshot of local life in motion.
When I visited, families were picnicking on the grass, children flew kites high against the sea breeze, and couples strolled together along the promenade. Street vendors lined the edges, selling everything from spicy chickpeas to fresh pineapple sprinkled with chili powder — snacks I couldn’t resist trying.
As the sun dipped toward the horizon, the atmosphere transformed. The golden light bathed the shoreline, and the waves crashed rhythmically against the rocks.
National Museum of Colombo
The National Museum of Colombo offers a deep dive into Sri Lanka's history. Its grand white facade reflects the country's colonial past, but inside, it’s all about Sri Lanka's unique story.
Wandering through the galleries, you'll likely be drawn to the carvings, statues, and regal artefacts from Sri Lanka’s kingdoms. The throne and crown of Kandyan royalty particularly stands out.
The museum isn’t overwhelming, but it does reward patience.
Accommodation - Staying in Colombo
Here are some accommodation options in Colombo.
Budget: C1 Colombo Fort
C1 Colombo Fort is a budget-friendly gem in the heart of Colombo’s bustling Fort area, just a 7-minute walk from the Khan Clock Tower, Colombo Dutch Museum, and Colombo Harbour. With free WiFi, a peaceful garden, and 24/7 reception, it’s a simple but comfortable base for exploring the city.
Surrounded by great seafood spots and close to public transport, it’s perfect for budget travellers who want convenience without breaking the bank.
Mid-Range: Lavonca Boutique Hotel
Lavonca Boutique Hotel is a stylish mid-range option tucked near Colombo’s city centre, just a short walk from Gangaramaya Temple and Galle Face Green. With air-conditioned rooms, a rooftop terrace, and an on-site restaurant, it offers a touch of comfort without the hefty price tag.
Whether you’re relaxing after a day of sightseeing or enjoying nearby beaches like Kollupitiya and Bambalapitiya, Lavonca blends convenience with a modern boutique vibe.
High End: Taj Samudra, Colombo
Taj Samudra delivers luxury with a touch of timeless elegance, offering ocean-view or city-view rooms that feel like a retreat in the heart of Colombo. With a sprawling outdoor pool, a fitness centre, and tennis courts, it’s a haven for relaxation or activity.
Dining is a highlight, with seven restaurants serving everything from Chinese and Indian to Japanese and fresh seafood. It's perfect for indulging.
Food - Eating in Colombo
During my time in Colombo, I was fortunate to share meals at my friend's home and the homes of her friends.
Although I didn’t explore Colombo’s restaurant scene myself, the city is known for its mix of local and international cuisines. Popular recommendations include the Ministry of Crab, celebrated for its seafood, and Nuga Gama at the Cinnamon Grand, which offers a traditional Sri Lankan dining experience in a rustic setting.
Street food is also a must-try, with kottu roti and hoppers being staples to look out for.
Transportation - Getting around Colombo
Here are your options.
On Foot
Colombo isn’t always pedestrian-friendly due to traffic and uneven sidewalks, but certain areas like Galle Face Green and Pettah Market are best explored on foot. Be cautious when crossing busy roads.
By Bus
For those seeking a budget-friendly option, Colombo’s public buses are extensive and affordable. While they can be crowded and tricky for first-timers, they’re a great way to immerse yourself in local life.
Look out for signs in Sinhala and Tamil, or ask locals for directions — they’re usually happy to help.
By Rideshare or Taxi
Ride-hailing apps like PickMe and Uber are widely available and often more reliable than hailing a cab from the street. They’re particularly useful for longer distances or when you need a comfortable ride.
Transportation - Getting to Colombo
Colombo, Sri Lanka’s capital, is well-connected and serves as the primary entry point for most travellers.
By Air
Colombo is home to Bandaranaike International Airport (CMB), located about 30km north of the city in Katunayake. Flights from major international hubs make this the most convenient way to reach Colombo.
From the airport, you can take a taxi, airport shuttle, or bus into the city centre.
By Train
Colombo Fort Railway Station is the central hub for Sri Lanka’s train network, connecting the capital to destinations across the island.
Trains to Colombo offer a scenic introduction to the country, though they can be crowded and require advance booking for reserved seating.
By Bus
Intercity and express buses connect Colombo to almost every major city in Sri Lanka. Buses are frequent, affordable, and operate from various terminals across the city. The Central Bus Station in Pettah is the main hub for long-distance routes.
By Car
Private transfers can bring you directly to Colombo from other cities, offering flexibility and comfort.
By Sea
While not common, some cruise ships and ferries occasionally dock at the Colombo Port. Check with your travel provider if arriving by sea is part of your itinerary.
ANURADHAPURA (Days 3-4)
Anuradhapura was my first real encounter with Sri Lanka’s ancient heart. Beyond the ruins and temples, it was the people who stood out.
I remember meeting a young man sitting quietly by the lake, his silhouette framed by the soft glow of sunset. We struck up a conversation, and what began as a casual chat turned into over an hour of him sharing his dreams and challenges.
The chat added a depth to my visit that I didn’t expect.
Wandering through the ancient city, I found moments of quiet reflection at the foot of towering stupas and sacred fig trees. But it wasn’t just the history that captivated me — it was how alive the place felt. Worshippers moved through these sites with reverence, blending centuries-old traditions with daily life.
These interactions — whether with strangers or the ruins themselves — shaped my understanding of what makes Anuradhapura so much more than a historical site. It’s a place where the past and present meet.
From ancient stupas to serene lakeside spots, the following activities will guide you through the highlights of this remarkable city.
Top Attractions and Activities in Anuradhapura
Anuradhapura is a city of timeless history, filled with ancient ruins, sacred Buddhist sites, and expansive gardens that reflect its cultural and spiritual heritage.
Note that the UNESCO-recognised Heritage Site encompasses a pretty large area, so get yourself a bicycle, as did I, to explore efficiently.
Of, if riding doesn't take your fancy, explore the ancient wonders of Anuradhapura on this full-day guided tour, offering a deep dive into the history. Visit iconic landmarks (outlined below), while learning insights from your guide. Perfect for history enthusiasts, this tour includes hotel pickup and drop-off, making it a hassle-free way to experience one of Sri Lanka's UNESCO World Heritage Sites.
➡ Book your Anuradhapura day tour here
Keep in mind that a single ticket covers entry to the major sites within the sacred city, so it’s worth planning your route to make the most of it.
There are four main areas of interest to explore, including:
1. Mahavihara
2. Abhayagiri Monastery
3. Citadel
4. Jetavanarama
1. Mahavihara
The spiritual heart of Anuradhapura, Mahavihara features some of the city’s most revered landmarks.
Sri Maha Bodhi (Sacred Fig Tree)
At the heart of Mahavihara is Sri Maha Bodhi, a sacred fig tree said to be a sapling from the original Bodhi Tree in India under which the Buddha attained enlightenment. It’s one of the oldest trees in the world, continuously cared for over millennia by devoted monks and pilgrims.
As I stood under its shade, watching monks and pilgrims offer flowers and chant prayers, the air seemed alive with devotion — a peaceful yet powerful energy that made me pause and contemplate where I was.
Ruvanvelisaya Dagoba
This grand white stupa, also known as the “Great Stupa,” is a striking symbol of Anuradhapura’s ancient architectural brilliance.
Encircled by a frieze of carved elephants, it’s a site I lingered at, mesmerised by the intricate details and the rhythmic hum of chanting visitors.
It was here that I truly felt the blend of history and spirituality that defines the city.
It’s a key site for Buddhist ceremonies and a place that radiates reverence. It was also my favourite spot within the site.
Thuparama Dagoba
Believed to be the first stupa built in Sri Lanka, Thuparama Dagoba enshrines the collarbone relic of the Buddha.
Its modest design contrasts with the larger stupas, but I found its quiet simplicity calming.
2. Abhayagiri Monastery
This vast, historically significant complex is rich in cultural treasures and ancient ruins, many of which date back over 2,000 years. The Abhayagiri Monastery was once a renowned centre of Buddhist scholarship, and walking through its grounds felt like stepping into another era.
Abhayagiri Dagoba
Towering over the surrounding ruins, the Abhayagiri Dagoba is an inspiring reminder of ancient Sri Lankan engineering. I was struck by its immense size and how nature had subtly intertwined with its weathered bricks over centuries.
Moonstone
At the base of a staircase, I found the intricately carved Moonstone, a masterpiece of ancient stonework symbolising the Buddhist cycle of life.
Studying its details up close, I was intrigued by how something so detailed had withstood the test of time.
Samadhi Buddha
Seated in serene meditation, the Samadhi Buddha exudes tranquility.
Standing before it, I could feel a sense of calm, as if the statue itself radiated peace.
Kuttam Pokuna (Twin Ponds)
These beautifully crafted bathing pools highlight the advanced engineering skills of ancient builders.
As I stood by the edge, marvelling at their symmetry, it was easy to imagine monks once using this space for ritual purification.
3. Citadel
The Citadel served as the administrative heart of ancient Anuradhapura, housing royal and civic structures that reveal the grandeur of its era. Some of these remnants date back over a millennium, offering a glimpse into the city’s former political and cultural significance.
Royal Palace
Exploring the ruins of the Royal Palace, I could almost picture its grandeur in its prime. You have to use your imagination, though, as the structure is mostly missing — it’s generally stones on the ground with walls long gone.
This humbling reminder of the power and artistry of the ancient kingdom was nevertheless impressive.
4. Jetavanarama
Once a vibrant monastic hub, Jetavanarama stands as a testament to the engineering and spiritual ambition of ancient Sri Lanka. The area is dominated by one of the largest brick structures in the world, a real engineering marvel.
Jetavanaramaya Dagoba
The Jetavanarama Dagoba towers over its surroundings, its sheer scale a reminder of the devotion and craftsmanship that shaped it.
Standing near its base, I was struck by the sheer effort it must have taken to construct something so massive with the tools of its time.
Archaeological Museum
The Archaeological Museum in Anuradhapura provides an opportunity to delve deeper into the stories behind the ruins. Its collection includes artefacts, statues, and relics unearthed from the area, offering context to the sites you’ve explored.
It’s a worthwhile stop to enhance your understanding of the ancient city.
Isurumuniya Temple
Isurumuniya Temple, carved into a rock face, is famous for its delicate stone carvings, including the iconic 'Lovers' sculpture.
I remember sitting quietly by the small pond outside, watching the fish glide through the water while trying to imagine the craftsmanship and patience it must have taken to create such intricate carvings.
Thissa Wewa (Lake Tissa)
Toward the end of the day, I found myself at Thissa Wewa, a calm reservoir that offers a perfect spot to wind down after exploring the ancient city.
As I sat by the water, I struck up a conversation with a young local man who had come to study by the lake.
To my surprise, we ended up speaking in Italian — a language I’d learned while living in Rome. He was studying and shared his aspirations of attending university, along with his thoughts on life in Anuradhapura.
Our conversation lingered for quite a while, a meaningful reminder of how travel connects you with people in unexpected ways.
Lake Tissa is a quiet space to reflect on the day’s experiences, interact with locals, and watch the sun dip below the horizon.
Tips for Exploring Anuradhapura
Exploring Anuradhapura is like stepping into a time capsule, and the best way to experience its vastness is on two wheels.
I hired a bicycle for the day, which turned out to be the perfect choice. Not only did it save me from trudging around in the heat, but it also gave me a chance to interact with locals along the way. As I cycled between ruins, people waved and smiled, and I happily returned the gesture — it added a whole new layer of connection to the experience.
Keep in mind, the sites are spread out, so having a bike (or at least a tuk-tuk) is essential.
Wear a hat, stay hydrated, and if you’re like me and prone to getting distracted by everything, make sure to set aside a full day to take it all in at your own pace.
Planning your day in Anuradhapura is essential, given how sprawling the city and its heritage sites are. Start by deciding which areas you want to prioritise — Mahavihara, Abhayagiri Monastery, the Citadel, and Jetavanarama. If you’re short on time, I’d recommend focusing on Mahavihara and Abhayagiri Monastery, as they house some of the most iconic and well-preserved sites, like the Ruvanvelisaya Dagoba and the Moonstone.
Here’s how I tackled it: I started with Mahavihara early in the morning when it was cooler and the sunlight made for good photos. From there, I cycled to Abhayagiri Monastery, stopping for a break under a shady tree before exploring the Twin Ponds and the serene Samadhi Buddha.
I saved the Citadel for midday, as it has fewer must-see sites but offers a glimpse into the administrative past of the city. Finally, I ended my day at Jetavanarama to see the grand brick dagoba as the late afternoon light cast long shadows across its structure.
Not every site is a must-see; for example, if you’re pressed for time, you might skip the Citadel or smaller dagobas that don’t stand out as much.
It’s a lot to take in, so pick based on your interests. If you're into archaeology, don’t miss the Archaeological Museum.
Accommodation - Staying in Anuradhapura
I stayed at Milano Tourist Rest, which was a pleasant place with clean rooms and great services.
Here are a few other accommodation options for Anuradhapura.
Budget: Kutumbaya
Kutumbaya offers everything you need for a comfortable budget stay in Anuradhapura, with a pool, WiFi, and the convenience of meals on-site. The host is apparently very helpful, sharing tips on what to see and even what to wear for temple visits. They can also help arrange a local driver, to make exploring the area even easier.
Mid-Range: Hotel Heladiv
Hotel Heladiv is a mid-range retreat surrounded by greenery, offering a peaceful escape about 7 kilometres from Anuradhapura’s historic sites. Rooms are comfortable with garden views, air conditioning, and private terraces.
The staff is attentive, and on-site amenities include WiFi, a 24-hour front desk, and even barbecue facilities. It’s a great spot for solo travellers and anyone looking to enjoy activities like cycling and fishing in addition to seeing the historic sites.
Mid-Range: D Family Resort
D Family Resort offers a comfortable mid-range stay in a central location in Anuradhapura. Rooms are air-conditioned and come with modern amenities like free WiFi and flat-screen TVs, with some offering serene lake views.
The resort features a lush garden, a sun terrace, and a 24-hour front desk, ensuring a relaxing and hassle-free experience. With easy access to local attractions like Jaya Sri Maha Bodhi and Kuttam Pokuna, it’s a solid choice for exploring the area.
Food - Eating in Anuradhapura
Anuradhapura has plenty of options to keep you fuelled during your explorations.
Salgado Hotel & Bakery is a favourite for quick, budget-friendly bites like sambol buns and fresh pastries — perfect for a snack on the go. For something more substantial, Casserole offers a mix of Sri Lankan dishes and a few international options.
If you’re after a more local vibe, Palhena Restaurant serves authentic Sri Lankan dishes like spicy fish curry and parippu (lentils) at very reasonable prices. And don’t miss the roadside vendors selling refreshments — they’re lifesavers when you’ve been cycling around all day in the tropical heat.
Transportation - Getting around Anuradhapura
Here are a few of your options for getting around Anuradhapura during your stay.
On Foot
Exploring Anuradhapura on foot is possible but can be challenging due to the vast distances between the sites and the heat. If you’re staying near the central areas, walking to nearby attractions can work, but for the larger UNESCO site, another option is better.
By Bicycle
Renting a bicycle is one of the best ways to explore Anuradhapura. It’s affordable, efficient, and allows you to cover more ground than walking. I rented one and loved the freedom it gave me to navigate between the ruins, interacting with locals along the way — it was one of the highlights of my visit.
By Tuk-Tuk
Tuk-tuks are a convenient and relatively inexpensive way to get around Anuradhapura. Drivers are generally familiar with the main sites and can even act as informal guides, offering insights along the way. Be sure to negotiate the fare in advance or agree on an hourly rate if you’re planning to visit multiple locations.
By Bus
Local buses operate within Anuradhapura, but they are primarily geared toward residents rather than tourists. While cheap, they aren’t the most convenient way to visit heritage sites scattered around the area.
By Car or Driver
Hiring a car with a driver is an option if you're looking for comfort and efficiency. It’s more expensive but allows you to visit sites at your own pace without worrying about navigation or the heat. Many drivers offer full-day packages covering the main areas of interest.
Transportation - Getting to Anuradhapura
I took the train from Colombo, departing at 6:50 AM — a perfectly early start to witness Sri Lanka waking up as the train made its way through lush green landscapes.
The ride was memorable not just for the scenery but also for the friendly encounters along the way. A man sitting next to me struck up a conversation, sharing local tips and even giving me his number, inviting me to visit when I travelled south. This openness is something I experienced often in Sri Lanka.
Here’s what you need to know about getting there.
By Train
Trains from Colombo to Anuradhapura are affordable and offer stunning views of the countryside. Tickets can be purchased in advance (at the station). 1st, 2nd and 3rd class options are available, depending on the service you choose (either Colombo or Colombo Intercity Express).
There are also connections from Kandy, with a change along the way.
By Bus
Taking a bus to Anuradhapura is one of the most budget-friendly ways to travel and provides numerous options depending on your starting point. Buses operate from several key locations, including Colombo, Dambulla, Kandy, Mihintale, and Trincomalee.
In Anuradhapura, three main bus stations serve the city:
- Colombo Bus Station
- New Bus Station
- Old Bus Station
By Car or Private Driver
Hiring a car or private driver offers flexibility and comfort, especially if you’re travelling with others. The drive from Colombo takes around 4 hours, and many drivers are willing to stop at attractions along the way.
By Tuk-Tuk
For shorter distances, you could hire a tuk-tuk for the journey, but this is not the most practical option for the 200+ km trip from Colombo to Anuradhapura. It’s worth considering only for travellers seeking a unique, albeit slow, adventure.
SIGIRIYA (Days 5-6)
Sigiriya wasn’t just another destination on my itinerary — it was where travel shifted into something deeper.
Here, I met Upul, a local whose story and hospitality left a lasting impact. He welcomed me into his home, shared tea and a snack called asmi, and offered a glimpse into his life that I could never have experienced from the usual tourist paths. Our time together became the subject of an article on my blog, which you can read here.
But Sigiriya isn’t only about its people — it’s a place where history feels alive, where climbing the rock fortress becomes a journey through time. The panoramic views from the summit and the vivid frescoes along the way are part of the experience, but what stayed with me most was that connection with Upul, who made this visit personal.
Below are some activities and landmarks that you might want to include during your time in Sigiriya.
Top Attractions and Activities in Sigiriya
Sigiriya presents a blend of historical sites and natural features, inviting exploration and a deeper connection to Sri Lanka’s past.
The Sigiriya site includes several highlights, all accessible with a single ticket: the Sigiriya Rock Fortress itself, the meticulously designed Royal Gardens, the ancient frescoes, and the summit that offers panoramic views of the surrounding landscape, among a few other more minor things.
For an immersive and unique experience, explore Sigiriya’s historical treasures on a guided tuk-tuk tour. This intimate adventure includes visits to the iconic Rock Fortress, the Royal Gardens, and other highlights while providing fascinating insights into their history and significance.
➡ Book your tour here
The informative Sigiriya Museum, just outside the main site, near the main ticket booth, is also a worthwhile visit.
Sigiriya Museum
Before starting the climb, I spent some time at the Sigiriya Museum. It was a perfect introduction to the history and significance of the fortress. The museum offers a journey through time, with exhibits spanning prehistoric life, early monastic settlements, and the Golden Age of King Kashyapa, all housed in a space inspired by the fortress itself, surrounded by forests and water.
The museum added context to everything I would see, like the hydraulic systems of the gardens and the frescoes on the rock face. For me, it set the stage, transforming the site from just an impressive landmark into a place alive with stories of innovation, power, and resilience.
Interestingly, locals often share the romantic tale of Sigiriya as King Kashyapa’s fortress retreat, weaving legends of palace intrigue and royal grandeur. Yet, much of the evidence points to its origins as a monastery long before — a sacred place of meditation and simplicity.
While walking through the museum, I couldn’t help but reflect on how history is shaped by both myth and fact.
Sigiriya (Rock Fortress)
Climbing the Sigiriya Rock Fortress was both exhilarating and nerve-wracking. The towering rock loomed ahead as I began the ascent, its sheer cliffs seeming almost insurmountable at first glance.
As someone with a fear of heights, I’ll admit there were moments when I lost my stomach — particularly on the narrow staircases perched precariously close to the edge. But I pushed on, knowing the reward at the top would be worth it.
This ancient fortress, built by King Kashyapa in the 5th century CE, is a journey through history, from the boulder-strewn paths at the base to the remnants of a royal palace on the summit. Along the way, I found myself admiring the ingenuity it must have taken to carve and construct such an incredible site.
Ascend early or late to avoid the crowds and heat. And allow about 2 hours for the return trip.
Bring water, snacks, and a hat. And don't forget your camera, of course.
Royal Gardens
The Royal Gardens are the first major feature you encounter upon entering the Sigiriya complex, setting the stage for the grandeur of the site before you even begin the ascent to the fortress.
These meticulously designed gardens are a testament to the ingenuity of ancient landscaping and engineering.
As I strolled through the gardens, I was struck by their layout, which consists of three distinct sections: water gardens, boulder gardens, and terraced gardens.
The water gardens are particularly impressive, with symmetrical pools and channels that still function today, showcasing advanced hydraulic systems from over a thousand years ago. I paused near the central pool, admiring the water lilies.
The boulder gardens offers a different experience — a maze-like arrangement of massive rocks interspersed with pathways and hidden niches.
Finally, the terraced gardens, carved into the slope leading up to the rock, hint at the climb to come. These tiered levels, created with a mix of natural and man-made terraces, frame Sigiriya Rock like a grand staircase.
Frescoes
Halfway up Sigiriya Rock, I reached an open-air spiral stairway that led me away from the main route to a long, sheltered gallery etched into the sheer rock face. Here, I found the famed frescoes — a series of paintings depicting buxom, wasp-waisted women. The well-preserved figures are often described as celestial nymphs or "apsaras".
Some say these women were concubines of King Kasyapa, part of his royal court's opulence. Others interpret them as symbols of fertility or representations of the heavens. The debate adds to the intrigue.
I took time admiring the details — the fine lines, the radiant hues, and the almost otherworldly serenity in their expressions.
If you take a photograph, remember not to use your flash.
Rock Fortress Summit
Reaching the summit of Sigiriya was like climbing to the top of an ancient stage where the remnants of a vanished civilisation lay scattered as if waiting for their next act.
The final steps, narrow and steep, tested not just my legs but also my resolve, as I clung to the railings with a white-knuckled grip. Heights have never been my strength, and the precarious ascent sent shivers up my spine.
Once at the top, the vista was breathtaking, with the landscape unfurling like a green quilt stitched with distant lakes and forests. The ruins of the summit — what once might have been opulent palaces or meditative spaces — now felt like skeletal outlines, whispering stories that would remain forever untold.
It wasn’t just the bricks and stones that struck me but the raw power of the place — an ancient world stripped bare to its foundation.
It was here that I met Upul, a man whose life story brought a human connection to this monumental site. We spoke at length, and his resilience and perspective seemed to mirror the enduring spirit of Sigiriya itself.
As the midday heat bore down, I realised that the summit wasn’t just about history — it was about the conversations, the reflections, and the reminders of how life goes on, even after empires crumble.
The summit of Sigiriya is surprisingly expansive, spanning around 1.6 hectares, with enough space to wander through the ruins of what is thought to be the king’s palace, bathing pools, and various rock-cut foundations.
Use the water and hat you brought as there’s little shade, and plan to spend at least an hour exploring and soaking in the panoramic views.
Pidurangala Rock
For an alternative and equally stunning view of Sigiriya, Pidurangala Rock is a must-visit, particularly for sunrise or sunset.
The climb, while not as long or commercialised as Sigiriya, offers its own challenges, including a short section of bouldering near the top. Once there, you'll be greeted with sweeping views of the surrounding jungle and an unbeatable vantage point of Sigiriya Rock, rising majestically in the distance.
The peaceful atmosphere and significantly lower entrance fee make it a favourite among budget travellers and photography enthusiasts.
If you’re planning a visit, bring a torch for early morning climbs and sturdy shoes for the rocky paths.
Local Interactions
One of the most rewarding aspects of my visit to Sigiriya was the chance to connect with locals.
After returning to my guesthouse in the afternoon, the owner’s son invited me to join him in watching a cricket Test match — Australia versus Sri Lanka. As an Australian, it felt both familiar and novel, sharing this moment in a country where cricket is almost a religion. The conversation flowed easily, and the shared enthusiasm for the game bridged any cultural divide.
Later, at 4:30 PM, Upul, a local man I’d met earlier on the summit, arrived to take me to his home. What followed was a heartwarming evening that extended far beyond the usual travel experience.
I met his family, swam in a nearby river, shared a home-cooked meal, and spent hours learning about their lives and aspirations. The hospitality was genuine and humbling.
These moments — watching cricket with a stranger and "breaking bread" with Upul’s family — became the memories I cherished most, a reminder of how travel isn’t just about places but people.
Accommodation - Staying in Sigiriya
Here are a few accommodation options for your stay in Sigiriya.
Budget: The Nilmini Lodge
I stayed at The Nilmini Lodge during my time in Sigiriya, and it was a great budget option for exploring the area. The rooms were simple but clean, with private bathrooms and all the essentials, including free WiFi. Breakfast options were excellent — I particularly enjoyed the hearty Sri Lankan spread that set me up for the day’s adventures.
The lodge’s peaceful garden and terrace were perfect for unwinding after climbing Sigiriya Rock, which is just a short distance away. The hosts were warm and helpful, the son of whom invited me to watch cricket one afternoon. It’s a solid choice for anyone looking for affordability without compromising on comfort or hospitality.
Mid-Range: Sigiriya Water Cottage
Sigiriya Water Cottage strikes a perfect balance between comfort and natural beauty, making it an excellent mid-range option. The air-conditioned rooms, complete with flat-screen TVs, offer views of serene lakes and distant mountains, creating a tranquil escape from the day’s adventures.
There's easy access to free bicycles for exploring nearby attractions and the opportunity to unwind on the sun terrace after a day of sightseeing. With friendly staff, a delicious on-site restaurant, and activities like cycling and fishing, this place adds a touch of relaxation to your Sigiriya experience.
High-End: Nivadoo Resort Sigiriya
The Nivadoo Resort in Sigiriya blends contemporary design with natural surroundings, offering you a unique and upscale stay. With stylish arched cottages nestled in lush greenery, the resort’s ambiance is tranquil yet luxurious.
Each unit comes with a private balcony to soak in the scenic views, while the resort’s pool offers a spot to unwind after exploring. Whether you're dining in their on-site restaurant or enjoying the peaceful garden setting, Nivadoo creates an experience that feels both exclusive and deeply connected to nature.
Food - Eating in Sigiriya
During my time in Sigiriya, food wasn’t a primary focus as I spent most of the day exploring.
I started with breakfast at my guesthouse on the second day, a simple but hearty meal that fuelled me for a trip south. For lunch on day one, I brought along snacks to eat on the summit, saving me the trouble of finding food in the middle of my adventure. Dinner was the highlight — a home-cooked meal with Upul’s family, where I got to experience authentic Sri Lankan hospitality and flavours in the most personal way.
Since I didn’t dine out, I can’t recommend restaurants from personal experience.
However, fellow travellers spoke highly of Chooti Restaurant and Gamagedara Village Food, both known for their local dishes and cosy atmosphere. These seem to be great options for anyone looking to sample traditional Sri Lankan food while in the area.
If you do try them, let me know what you think!
Transportation - Getting around Sigiriya
Getting around Sigiriya largely depends on where you’re staying and how you plan to explore the sites. The area is compact enough that you can manage most of it without much hassle, but having a plan can make things easier.
Here are your options.
On Foot
If you’re staying close to the Sigiriya Rock Fortress, walking is a great option for getting around. The Royal Gardens, museum, and other nearby spots are within walking distance.
However, keep in mind that the heat can be intense, so starting early or late in the day is best.
By Bicycle
Bicycles are available for rent at many guesthouses and local shops. Cycling is a fantastic way to explore Sigiriya and nearby villages at your own pace. It’s eco-friendly, affordable, and allows for quick stops to interact with locals or admire the scenery.
It's perhaps the most popular way of getting around for travellers to Sigiriya.
By Tuk-Tuk
Tuk-tuks are a popular way to get around Sigiriya if you want something quicker or more comfortable. They’re perfect for reaching Pidurangala Rock or other sites further out, especially if you’re short on time.
You might need to negotiate the price with the driver.
By Scooter or Motorbike
For those who prefer more independence, renting a scooter or motorbike can be a practical option. It gives you the freedom to explore at your own pace, from Sigiriya to nearby towns and attractions.
Make sure you have an international driving permit and drive cautiously - there are plenty of potholes!
By Car
If you’re travelling in a group or with a family, hiring a car with a driver might be the most convenient option. It’s more expensive but offers comfort and air conditioning — something you might appreciate after climbing Sigiriya or Pidurangala.
Transportation - Getting to Sigiriya
Here are your options for getting to Sigiriya.
By Bus
Sigiriya can be reached by bus from multiple cities, albeit indirectly.
Common routes include buses from Colombo, Kandy, Dambulla, and Polonnaruwa.
Here's the catch: most buses will drop you off in Dambulla, where you’ll need to switch to a local bus or tuk-tuk for the final stretch to Sigiriya, about 20km away. This is what I had to do, coming from Anuradhapura. The journey can be a bit crowded but is very affordable and gives you a glimpse of local life.
I had a lot of fun on both buses, chatting freely with locals, and being helped - without having to ask - to get on the right bus in Dambulla.
By Private Vehicle
Hiring a private car and driver is possibly the easiest way to reach Sigiriya, especially if you’re travelling from Colombo or Kandy with limited time. It’s more expensive but offers comfort, air-conditioning, and flexibility for stops along the way.
It's not my choice of travel, but it might suit you.
By Tuk-Tuk
For those coming from nearby towns like Dambulla or Habarana, tuk-tuks are a quick and convenient option. The ride is short, and you can enjoy the open-air views.
KANDY (Days 7-8)
Kandy is where I slowed down a bit, taking the opportunity to explore on foot and absorb the city's rhythm. I met an Australian couple (whom I'd originally seen in Colombo) who had hired a driver for their trip, something I discovered is a popular way to travel around Sri Lanka. We exchanged further stories, and their experiences offered a different perspective on getting around the country.
I spent most of my time wandering around Kandy. There’s a sense of the past woven into the city's everyday life that reveals itself in the simplest interactions. Walking gave me the freedom to explore without an agenda, letting curiosity guide me, which felt refreshingly unhurried.
In the evenings, the lake reflects the soft glow of the fading sun, while locals gather along its edges to chat or simply watch the water. The streets are alive with the hum of tuk-tuks, vendors selling fresh produce, and the sound of temple drums in the distance.
Watching performers dressed in elaborate attire for traditional dances or spotting a monk deep in thought are moments that give Kandy a sense of timelessness amid the motion of everyday life.
These experiences set the stage for exploring Kandy.
Top Attractions and Activities in Kandy
Explore the cultural heart of Sri Lanka, from sacred temples to traditional performances.
Dive deeper into Kandy’s heritage with a guided city day tour. This comprehensive experience takes you to must-visit landmarks (including some of those outlined below), offering a curated glimpse into the city's traditions.
➡ Book your tour here
Kandy Lake
Arriving in Kandy at 10:45 AM after a bumpy bus ride from Sigiriya via Dambulla, squashed between two men on the three-seat side of the bus, I found myself drawn to Kandy Lake almost immediately (after finding a room to rent and eating).
This man-made lake, built in 1807 by King Sri Wickrama Rajasinghe, sits at the heart of the city like a giant mirror reflecting the cityscape around it. Despite being surrounded by the chaos of urban life, the lake offers some peace, with a wide walking path shaded by trees and dotted with benches for those seeking respite.
I strolled along its edge, weaving through a mix of locals, schoolchildren in bright white uniforms, and other travellers. The air was humid but carried a gentle breeze, and I noticed several bird species skimming the water or perched on nearby branches. Midway, I stopped to watch a small Buddhist shrine on an island in the lake, which adds to the charm of the setting.
If you’re exploring Kandy, make time for this scenic walk — especially in the morning or late afternoon when the light is softer. Walking the entire lake takes about an hour, making it a perfect way to get your bearings before diving deeper into Kandy’s other offerings.
Dance Performance
During the afternoon, I watched a cultural dance performance, at the Kandyan Art Association & Cultural Centre near the lake. I wasn’t entirely sure what to expect, but it turned out to be a curious mix of drumming, slow movements, and theatrics.
The dancers moved with precision, albeit slowly, their costumes eye-catching, while the drummers kept the beat loud and constant. I couldn’t help but appreciate the effort that went into it, even if the performance itself didn’t fully draw me in.
What struck me most was the interplay of tradition and modernity — centuries-old techniques presented to an audience of tourists with cameras poised.
If you’re in Kandy and have the time, the performances offer an interesting look into Sri Lanka’s cultural expressions. While not life-changing, they’re a chance to glimpse an art form that has endured a while.
Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic
The Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic (Sri Dalada Maligawa) in Kandy is one of the most revered Buddhist sites in Sri Lanka. This temple complex is said to house a sacred tooth relic of the Buddha, making it a pilgrimage site for Buddhists worldwide.
While exploring its ornate halls and richly adorned shrines, I felt a mix of curiosity and awe at the devotion of the visitors, many dressed in white, offering flowers and prayers.
The intricate wood carvings, gold accents, and ceremonial rituals reflect centuries of heritage and faith. The inner sanctum is where the relic is stored, though it remains hidden from view, encased in a series of golden caskets.
In the evenings, the temple comes alive with chanting monks and the rhythmic beat of drums, adding a sense of reverence.
When visiting, dress conservatively (shoulders and knees covered), and prepare for a queue if attending during the evening puja ceremony. For those looking to capture the beauty of the temple, it’s worth noting that certain areas restrict photography.
My visit gave me a glimpse into the blend of spirituality and everyday devotion that defines Sri Lankan culture.
Other Places to Visit in Kandy
If you have extra time in Kandy, there’s plenty to explore beyond the Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic and Kandy Lake.
The Ceylon Tea Museum offers a glimpse into Sri Lanka’s tea history, while the National Museum delves into the city’s cultural heritage. For a peaceful yet poignant visit, the British Garrison Cemetery is a reminder of Kandy’s colonial past.
Additionally, the Devales — Hindu temples with distinct architectural styles — are worth a visit for those intrigued by Sri Lanka’s religious diversity.
Accommodation - Staying in Kandy
Here are a few accommodation options for your stay in Kandy.
Budget: Funk Bunks by the Lake
If you're looking for a budget-friendly stay in Kandy with a touch of style, Funk Bunks by the Lake is a fantastic option. Just a short walk from Kandy Lake and within easy reach of the city centre, this hostel offers air-conditioned dorms, cosy common areas, and a chilled-out vibe perfect for meeting other travellers.
They provide free breakfast, WiFi, and even help with travel arrangements like scooter rentals or airport shuttles. Whether you're planning a stroll around the lake, a visit to the Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic, or just relaxing on the terrace, Funk Bunks has you covered without breaking the bank.
Mid-Range: Sevana City Hotel
Sevana City Hotel in Kandy offers an excellent balance between comfort and affordability, making it a great mid-range option. Located conveniently close to the centre, it’s a short walk to the Kandy Railway Station and a quick tuk-tuk ride to the Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic.
Rooms are clean and modern, with air conditioning and thoughtful touches to ensure a comfortable stay. The rooftop terrace and small outdoor pool are perfect for unwinding. With friendly staff and great value for money, it's an ideal choice for those seeking quality without splurging.
High End: Cinnamon Citadel Kandy
Cinnamon Citadel Kandy is where luxury meets tranquility in the heart of Sri Lanka’s hill country. Perched 500 meters above sea level and surrounded by lush greenery, this high-end retreat is perfect for those seeking comfort and breathtaking views.
The rooms are spacious and elegantly designed, offering air conditioning, plush bedding, and thoughtful touches like a minibar and tea/coffee facilities. The outdoor pool, with its panoramic backdrop, is an undeniable highlight.
Food - Eating in Kandy
My meals in Kandy were more functional than memorable, though still satisfying. For lunch, I grabbed an egg rotti from a small eatery whose name I can’t recall — it was simple, filling, and inexpensive, which is often all you need while exploring.
In the evening, I had another modest meal that didn’t stand out, but I’ve heard good things about a couple of places worth trying if you’re looking for something reliable.
Devon Restaurant is a popular option for a variety of dishes, from Sri Lankan staples to more familiar Western fare. Paiva's Restaurant, another recommended spot, offers a similar mix and is known for its decent service and central location. Both are good choices if you’re after something straightforward without breaking the budget.
If all else fails, Kandy has no shortage of small local spots serving up fresh rotti and curries that’ll get you through the day or night.
Transportation - Getting around Kandy
Getting around Kandy offers a variety of options depending on your preferences and travel style.
On Foot
For the central parts of Kandy, walking is a great option. The area around Kandy Lake, the Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic, and the bustling markets is compact and pedestrian-friendly.
Tip: Carry water to stay hydrated in the heat.
By Tuk-Tuk
Tuk-tuks are ubiquitous in Kandy and an affordable, quick way to get around. Negotiate fares before starting your ride, or opt for apps like PickMe, which offer fair pricing.
Tuk-tuks are especially handy for reaching places like the Tea Museum, which is a little farther out from the city centre.
By Bus
Local buses operate frequently and connect parts of Kandy. They’re a budget-friendly option, though they can be crowded and less convenient for short city hops.
If heading to destinations like Peradeniya or nearby tea plantations, buses from the central bus station are reliable and cost-effective.
Transportation - Getting to Kandy
Kandy, located in Sri Lanka's scenic hill country, is well-connected by road and rail, making it accessible from various parts of the country.
Here’s an overview of how to reach Kandy.
By Train
Taking the train to Kandy is one of the most popular options, especially for those travelling from Colombo, Nuwara Eliya, or Ella. The train journey offers stunning views of lush tea plantations, rolling hills, and picturesque valleys.
- From Colombo: The trip takes around 2.5–3 hours, with several daily departures from Colombo Fort Station. First-class seats are available on some trains, while second- and third-class options offer a more local experience.
- From Ella or Nuwara Eliya (Nanu Oya Station): The journey is slower but highly scenic, taking about 7-9 hours from Ella and 4–5 hours from Nanu Oya.
Book your train tickets in advance, especially for first-class seats, as they tend to sell out quickly.
By Bus
Buses are an affordable and efficient way to reach Kandy, with services operating frequently from major cities like Colombo, Dambulla, and Nuwara Eliya.
- From Colombo: The journey takes approximately 3-3.5 hours, with options ranging from basic local buses to more comfortable air-conditioned coaches.
- From Dambulla: The ride is about 2 hours and is a convenient option for those coming from Sigiriya or the Cultural Triangle.
For a more comfortable ride, choose private or semi-luxury buses over regular local buses.
By Car
Hiring a car with a driver is a practical and comfortable way to travel around Sri Lanka, including to Kandy. It offers the flexibility to stop at points of interest along the way and is especially convenient for those travelling in groups.
Save this itinerary for future reference!
KANDY TO ELLA TRAIN (Day 9)
The train journey from Kandy to Ella is often hailed as one of the most scenic rail routes in the world, and it absolutely lives up to its reputation.
My day began mid-morning, boarding the iconic red train with its vintage interiors — wooden ceilings, brass fans, and windows wide open to the world outside.
As the train chugged along, from Kandy through Hatton, Nanuoya, and Haputale to Ella, the scenery transformed dramatically. Towering forests gave way to rolling tea plantations, their vibrant green stretching endlessly into the horizon.
Travelling in the observation saloon, surrounded by a mix Sri Lankans and other travellers, offered comfort and panoramic windows. But I couldn’t resist spending most of my time standing at the open door, soaking in the scenery and the lively energy of the journey.
From my spot, I connected with locals on the second class carriages ahead, waving and shouting greetings as they leaned out of their own doors, grinning and calling back. The sense of shared joy was infectious, a reminder that travel is about the destinations and the human connections you make along the way.
Looking out at the lush vistas, dotted with tea pickers in colourful saris, and feeling the crisp mountain air on my face, I understood why this journey is considered a must-do. Whether you’re gazing at the misty hills or waving to smiling children at the small stations, the ride is an unforgettable immersion into Sri Lanka's natural beauty.
Here, I’ll share tips on how to make the most of this iconic train ride, including the best seating choices and key stops along the way.
Highlights of the Train Journey
The journey from Kandy to Ella (which ends in Badulla) is a blend of rolling tea plantations, misty mountains, and local villages, offering glimpses into the heart of Sri Lanka's lush hill country.
Whether you lean out the open doors or sit by a window, the views are unforgettable.
Tea Plantations
As the train weaves its way through Sri Lanka’s hill country, endless carpets of tea plantations come into view, stretching across the hills like patchwork quilts. The vibrant green leaves glisten in the sunlight, tended by tea pluckers whose brightly coloured saris add a striking contrast to the landscape.
Watching the tea estates roll by is not just visually stunning — it’s a reminder of Sri Lanka’s deep connection to its tea heritage.
Scenic Viewpoints
The train journey from Kandy to Ella offers breathtaking scenic viewpoints at nearly every turn, with sweeping vistas of mist-laden valleys, cascading waterfalls, and steep hillsides. At certain points, the train hugs the edge of cliffs, providing uninterrupted views of the lush landscape below.
These moments, fleeting but powerful, reminded me why this journey is celebrated as one of the most beautiful train rides in the world.
Always have your camera ready.
Hanging Out of Train Doors
Leaning out of the open train doors, a tradition for both locals and travellers, was an exhilarating part of the journey.
I clung to the doorway, letting the wind whip past my face, as vibrant green landscapes blurred into view. Other passengers smiled and waved from their own doorways, creating a shared sense of adventure and connection.
While thrilling, it’s worth being cautious — always keep a firm grip to ensure your experience remains as safe as it is memorable.
Tips for the Train Ride
Travelling by train along the Kandy to Ella route is an unforgettable experience, but a bit of planning can enhance your journey. Here’s what to consider:
Cabins and Seats: First-class cabins (and observations decks) offer reserved seating with air conditioning but limit the experience with closed windows, making photography tricky. Second-class cabins strike a great balance, with open windows for fresh air and better views, while third-class cabins are the most basic and lively.
Seats in second and third class can be reserved in advance — essential for ensuring comfort on the long journey. If unreserved, start at Peradeniya station for a better chance of finding a seat, otherwise you'll be standing.
Food and Snacks: Food options onboard are limited to vendors who sell snacks like fruits and savoury bites as they hop on and off at stops. Bring your own water and snacks to stay fuelled, especially as delays can stretch the journey.
Tickets: Book reserved tickets in advance — ideally through online services like 12Go Asia or directly at Colombo or Kandy stations. Observation saloon tickets sell out quickly, so plan ahead. I booked mine the day before in Kandy, and it was the last available seat. Unreserved tickets are available on the day but can mean standing for hours.
General Tips: Sit on the right side for the best views from Kandy to Ella, and left when travelling the reverse. Bring a camera or phone, dress comfortably, and pack essentials like water, snacks, and wet wipes/toilet paper.
Morning trains often provide the most picturesque views, and the journey is just as much about the experience as the destination.
ELLA (Day 10)
Ella welcomed me in the early evening with its crisp mountain air, rolling tea plantations, and a small-town charm that made it a perfect retreat. The town felt like a meeting place for travellers seeking the serenity of nature and the adventure of exploration.
Despite being tiny, Ella buzzed with activity — cafes serving locally sourced tea, hikers readying for treks, and tuk-tuks zipping through narrow lanes.
One of my first stops was Little Adam’s Peak, a relatively short hike that rewarded me with sweeping views of lush valleys and mist-covered hills.
I also tried a traditional Ayurvedic massage, something I hadn’t done yet on this trip. What should have been a relaxing moment turned awkward — an encounter with a masseuse whose approach veered into uncomfortable territory.
I wasn’t alone in my unease; the man in the bay next to me abruptly walked out, confirming that something was off. It’s a small anecdote, a strange juxtaposition to the otherwise serene ambiance of Ella, but it serves as a reminder to trust your instincts even in idyllic settings.
Ella’s beauty is undeniable, but it’s also a gateway to introspection. Whether sipping tea on a veranda or hiking to distant peaks, you can’t help but feel connected to the rhythms of the earth here.
Top Attractions and Activities in Ella
Ella offers a serene mountain escape with opportunities to hike, explore, and connect with nature. Although my time there was brief — arriving in the early evening and leaving after lunch the next day — I think I managed to experience its essence.
If you don't want to wander around alone, consider a guided tour that takes you to six of Ella's top spots. From a breathtaking sunrise hike to stunning waterfalls and intriguing archaeological sites, this experience offers a perfect mix of natural beauty and cultural exploration.
➡ Book your tour here
But if a guided tour isn't your thing, here's what you can consider doing during your visit.
Little Adam’s Peak
I began my day with an early morning trek to Little Adam’s Peak, heading out before breakfast. The trail was calm, punctuated by the rustling of leaves and the occasional murmur of other hikers. The manageable hike wound through tea plantations, offering glimpses of the rolling countryside bathed in the soft morning light.
At the summit, I was met with sweeping views of emerald-green landscapes that seemed to stretch endlessly. The tranquility of the moment made it a perfect way to start the day before continuing my journey to Haputale.
The walk begins near Oak Ray Ella Gap Hotel in Ella town, just off the main street lined with restaurants. Follow road B113 through scenic tea plantations — either on foot or by tuk-tuk for a more relaxed approach.
Signs and a path near the Flying Ravana zip line lead to the start of the hike. With a straightforward ascent, the trail culminates in three peaks, each accessible via short, steep tracks, offering breathtaking vistas of Ella’s lush surroundings.
Nine Arches Bridge
The Nine Arch Bridge is one of Ella’s most iconic landmarks, a striking colonial-era railway bridge. Constructed in 1921 during the British colonial period, this engineering marvel was built using only rocks, bricks, and cement — completely devoid of steel. It elegantly connects the Ella and Demodara railway stations, and its nine graceful arches are framed by dense forests and tea plantations.
I reached the bridge as part of my walk from Little Adam’s Peak. After descending from the zip line office, I followed signs leading to the 98 Acres Resort & Spa and meandered through beautiful tea plantations. The route was dotted with locals, some offering photos with tea pickers in exchange for a small fee.
Continuing along smaller roads and footpaths, I found myself navigating a steep, winding trail that eventually revealed the bridge, its arches peeking through the trees like something out of a storybook.
Once at the bridge, I joined other visitors, taking in the views and waiting for a train to pass. The sight of a train crossing the bridge is cool, as passengers lean out of the windows, waving enthusiastically.
Vendors nearby sold fresh coconuts and refreshments, adding to the lively atmosphere.
While it’s magical to see the train, I wouldn’t recommend waiting for hours if the schedule doesn’t align with your visit — there’s little else to do while waiting.
Ella Rock
Ella Rock is one of the most popular hiking destinations in Ella, offering breathtaking views of the surrounding valleys. The trek is a more challenging alternative to Little Adam’s Peak, often attracting adventurous travellers looking for a rewarding climb. The path winds through tea plantations, railway tracks, and dense jungle before reaching the summit.
Hikers typically start from Ella town, walking along the railway tracks until they find a marked path leading toward the rock. The trail is known for its steep ascents and can take around 2–3 hours to complete, depending on your pace.
If you plan to visit Ella Rock, it’s best to start early in the morning to avoid the midday heat and enjoy the cool, misty atmosphere at the summit. Carry plenty of water, wear sturdy shoes, and be prepared for a hike that tests your stamina.
Accommodation - Staying in Ella
Here are a few accommodation options for you to consider.
Budget: Downtown Hostels Ella
Downtown Hostel Ella is a backpacker’s haven right in the heart of Ella, offering incredible value and a chilled-out vibe. Just a short walk from the train station and Ella Spice Garden, it’s perfectly placed for exploring the town’s best attractions, including the famous Nine Arch Bridge, just 2.6km away.
The hostel features cosy rooms, some with garden views and private balconies, as well as a shared lounge and terrace to relax after a day of adventure. Breakfast options include both American and Asian fare, giving you fuel for the day ahead.
Mid-Range: Winwood Ella
Winwood Ella is a mid-range stay that combines comfort and stunning views. Perched just a short walk from Ella Railway Station and Ella Spice Garden, this inn offers rooms with private balconies that open up to breathtaking mountain vistas. The timber cosy interiors make it a relaxing retreat.
The interiors embrace a rustic, natural aesthetic with warm wood panelling and stone details that feel grounded and inviting. The spacious rooms are designed with earthy tones, natural materials, and large windows that open to lush greenery.
High End: 98 Acres Resort & Spa
If you're looking to treat yourself, this place offers the ultimate high-end escape in the heart of Sri Lanka’s tea country. Perched on a sprawling tea estate, this retreat boasts breathtaking mountain views, an inviting outdoor pool, and rooms that blend elegance with comfort.
From sipping tea on your private terrace to hiking Little Adam's Peak just minutes away, every moment here feels seamlessly connected to Ella’s stunning landscape.
Food - Eating in Ella
Ella has a reputation for its cosy cafes, offering a mix of traditional Sri Lankan dishes and Western-inspired meals.
Cafe Chill is a favourite for its laid-back vibe and wide menu ranging from Sri Lankan rice and curry to pizzas and burgers. It’s a great spot to unwind after a day of trekking.
For a more local experience, Matey Hut is known for its affordable and authentic Sri Lankan dishes, served with a warm smile in a simple setting. It's here that I devoured beef kottu roti.
Ella’s food scene is relatively compact but diverse enough to cater to a range of tastes.
Transportation - Getting around Ella
Ella’s relaxed pace and manageable size mean you won’t need extensive transportation plans. A mix of walking and tuk-tuks should suffice for most visitors.
On Foot
Ella’s compact size and the proximity of many attractions make walking a practical and enjoyable option. Whether you’re strolling through the town or heading to nearby sites like Little Adam’s Peak or Nine Arch Bridge, the scenic surroundings and cool hill-country air add to the experience.
By Tuk-Tuk
Tuk-tuks are readily available and an affordable way to reach farther destinations or avoid walking uphill. They’re especially handy if you’re short on time or prefer to save your energy for trekking.
Most guesthouses can arrange tuk-tuks for you, and drivers are typically happy to wait while you explore.
By Bicycle
For those who enjoy cycling, renting a bike is another way to get around. Be prepared for steep inclines.
Transportation - Getting to Ella
Reaching it is an adventure in itself.
By Train
The train journey to Ella is one of the most scenic routes in Sri Lanka, as outlined previously.
Whether you're coming from Kandy, Nuwara Eliya (Nanu Oya station), or Haputale, the ride offers breathtaking views. Trains can be slow and often delayed, but they are an experience worth having.
Reserved tickets, especially for second-class or observation saloons, are recommended and can be booked in advance at stations or online through agencies like 12Go Asia.
By Bus
Ella is well-connected by bus from nearby towns like Bandarawela, Haputale, and Badulla. Buses are frequent and affordable, but they can be crowded and less comfortable than trains. If you’re travelling from Colombo, Kandy, or other larger cities, you’ll likely need to change buses in Bandarawela or Badulla.
By Car
Of course, you can always hire a car with a driver, especially if you prefer direct travel without stops.
HAPUTALE (Days 11-12)
The rhythm of life in Haputale is unhurried, set against a backdrop of rolling tea estates that stretch endlessly into the horizon. Early mornings come alive with the earthy scent of dew-drenched soil and the gentle rustle of tea leaves being plucked by hand. Women in vibrant, practical attire move rhythmically through the fields, their quiet conversations blending with birdsong.
Walking through the tea fields, you might feel the rough texture of the bushes or catch the smoky scent of a nearby home. As the light shifts throughout the day, the hills transition from golden mornings to serene blue afternoons. Meals are simple but full of heart — freshly brewed tea with roti and sambol, steeped in spice and warmth.
Haputale invites you to slow down and connect with its quiet simplicity, offering a pause from the busyness of travel.
Top Attractions and Activities in Haputale
Haputale offers a mix of natural beauty and cultural experiences, from exploring expansive tea estates to visiting historic landmarks.
Lipton’s Seat
Perched high in the hills above Haputale, Lipton's Seat offers one of the most iconic viewpoints in Sri Lanka. Named after Sir Thomas Lipton, who is credited with popularising Ceylon tea, the spot served as his favourite place to survey the lush plantations he established in the region.
Reaching Lipton's Seat is an experience. The winding journey takes you through sprawling tea estates, where workers can often be seen plucking leaves. You can either hike to the top — a gentle yet scenic trek — or take a tuk-tuk for a more relaxed ascent.
At the summit, you’re rewarded with sweeping views of rolling hills, tea plantations, and, on a clear day, even distant coastlines. There’s a small café where you can enjoy a cup of locally grown tea while soaking in the panoramic scenery. For the best experience, aim to visit early in the morning before the mist rolls in and obscures the view.
The entrance fee is 500 LKR which you'll purchase once you're close to the top of the hill. Payment is made in cash.
Dambatenne Tea Factory
Visiting Dambatenne Tea Factory felt like stepping into the history of Sri Lanka’s tea industry. Established by Sir Thomas Lipton in 1890, this factory continues to produce high-quality Ceylon tea, offering you a glimpse into the intricate process behind every cup.
Getting there was fun. I took a local bus, which was as lively as it was memorable. Children jostled playfully for a seat beside me, their curiosity and excitement making the ride a cheerful highlight of the day. Their smiles and chatter made me feel like the guest of honour in a bustling tea-plantation town.
At the factory, the tour guided me through each step of tea production, from withering and rolling to fermenting and drying. The machinery, though aged, hummed with purpose, and the earthy aroma of tea leaves filled the air. The staff were kind and informative, answering questions with a mix of pride and humour.
If you're in Haputale, a visit to Dambatenne is a chance to connect with the people and culture that make the region so unique.
If you’d prefer a guided experience, this tea adventure in Haputale offers an immersive journey through the plantations. With insights into the tea-making process and a delicious lunch included, it’s a great way to explore the region’s tea heritage with ease.
➡ Click here to book your tour
Adisham Bungalow
Nestled amid the hills, Adisham Bungalow is a Tudor-style mansion that now serves as a monastery. Originally built by a British planter in the 1930s, the structure feels like a slice of England transplanted into Sri Lanka, with its stone walls, manicured gardens, and sprawling views of tea estates.
The monastery welcomes visitors on weekends and public holidays, offering a glimpse of its preserved interiors, a small chapel, and a collection of religious artefacts. You can also purchase jams and chutneys made on the premises, which are popular souvenirs.
- Getting There: Adisham Bungalow is about 3km from Haputale town and can be reached by tuk-tuk or a pleasant hike.
- Entry Fee: Approximately 300 LKR.
Whether you’re drawn to its colonial history or setting, Adisham Bungalow is a unique and peaceful addition to your Haputale itinerary.
Accommodation - Staying in Haputale
Here are accommodation options for you to consider regarding your stay in Haputale.
Budget: White Monkey Dias Rest
If you’re heading to Haputale on a budget, White Monkey Dias Rest offers a laid-back, cosy stay with unbeatable mountain views. Nestled in the hills, this family-run guesthouse feels more like staying with friends than booking a room.
The breakfast — complete with warm local dishes and pancakes — is a highlight, as is relaxing by the outdoor fireplace after a day of exploring. Whether you’re cycling the winding roads or just soaking up the vibe, this place makes a perfect base for your Haputale adventures.
Mid-Range: Vantage Hills Haputale
Vantage Hills Haputale strikes a balance between comfort and natural beauty, making it an ideal mid-range escape in the hills. The mountain views from your private balcony or patio are the real star here, especially when paired with a morning coffee or an evening sunset.
With a sparkling outdoor pool, lush garden, and peaceful terrace, the property invites you to slow down and soak in the scenery. Plus, its convenient location near Demodara Nine Arch Bridge and Horton Plains National Park makes it a great base for exploring Haputale and beyond.
High End: The Capoe House
The Capoe House delivers a luxurious getaway in Haputale, set amid mountain landscapes. Though it’s a bit removed from town, the surroundings and stunning views more than make up for the extra distance. The outdoor pool, lush gardens, and expansive terrace create an atmosphere of quiet indulgence, while the stylish rooms come with thoughtful touches like mountain-facing balconies and modern amenities.
It's perfect for hiking enthusiasts or those looking to escape into nature.
Food - Eating in Haputale
Haputale’s food scene is as unpretentious as the town itself, offering hearty, flavourful meals.
I enjoyed a five-dish curry at a local eatery — each plate brimming with vibrant flavours and spice, accompanied by soft rice. For a snack, Risara Bakery is a favourite, serving fresh pastries and tea.
Don’t leave without pairing your meal with a cup of Haputale’s finest brew, straight from the surrounding tea estates.
Transportation - Getting around Haputale
Here are your options.
On Foot
Haputale is a compact town, and many key sites like markets, tea shops, and small eateries are easily accessible by walking. Strolling through the streets gives you a chance to soak in the rhythm of local life, and many scenic spots are just a short walk away.
By Tuk-Tuk
Tuk-tuks are widely available and an affordable way to reach sites further from the town centre, like Lipton’s Seat or nearby tea estates.
By Bus
Local buses are an adventurous way to explore Haputale and the surrounding areas. I took a bus to Dambatenne Tea Factory and enjoyed the lively atmosphere, with children clamouring to sit beside me. It’s an authentic, albeit crowded, experience for longer distances.
Transportation - Getting to Haputale
Reaching Haputale is as picturesque as reaching other places in the hill country.
By Train
Haputale is well-connected by train, with its station located on the main Colombo-Badulla railway line. Trains from Ella, Nuwara Eliya, or Kandy are frequent, and reserved seats are recommended during busy periods for a comfortable journey.
By Bus
Buses to Haputale are available from nearby towns such as Ella, Bandarawela, and Nuwara Eliya. The journey may be less comfortable than the train but is often quicker and budget-friendly.
By Car
Travelling to Haputale by car provides the most flexibility and convenience.
RATNAPURA (Day 13)
Known as the "City of Gems," Ratnapura was more than just a stop for me — it was a mission. My sister, a lover of fashion and jewellery, had to have a piece of Sri Lanka's gem legacy, and Ratnapura, the heart of the gemstone trade, was the perfect place. Selecting a stone, knowing its origins lay deep beneath this soil, felt special, and I couldn’t resist picking one for a close friend too.
The experience was more than a purchase. Watching a gemcutter transform raw stones into dazzling pieces, I was struck by the patience and skill needed to preserve this age-old craft. Amid the focused hum of the workshops, tradition came alive in every meticulous cut.
Beyond gems, Ratnapura’s verdant tea plantations and misty mountains create an idyllic backdrop. But that aside, there's not really a lot 'to do and see' in terms of attractions. I came here for the gems.
Top Attractions and Activities in Ratnapura
Ratnapura has limited attractions beyond its gemstone trade and the nearby Sinharaja Forest Reserve, making it a straightforward yet rewarding stop for those interested in unique crafts
Gem Museums and Shops
Saviya Street, just northeast of the clocktower, is the heart of Ratnapura’s gem trade, where local merchants proudly display their wares. It was in one of these stores that I purchased two gems — one for my sister and another for a friend, each carrying a story from the city’s rich gemstone legacy.
The owner of my guesthouse, Ratna Gem Halt, took me on a personalised tour of the city, introducing me to various gem stores and sharing insights into the local trade. One highlight was learning about the intricate process of refining sapphires, which are shaped and polished locally with remarkable skill and precision.
Visiting the gem museums, while modest, offers a glimpse into 'gem lore' with displays on the cultural and historical significance of these treasures. However, these museums often double as sales opportunities, with a gentle nudge toward purchasing — more of a tourist gimmick than an in-depth educational experience. Even so, the personal interactions with merchants and the behind-the-scenes look at the craft add a meaningful dimension to Ratnapura’s gem-centric charm.
Gem Mines
Located on the outskirts of Ratnapura, the gem mines provide an unfiltered look at the backbreaking work behind Sri Lanka’s world-renowned gemstones. These mines, set in a wet and humid region ideal for the formation of gem-rich riverbeds, are a testament to the area’s natural bounty. The climate plays a crucial role in creating the alluvial deposits where these precious stones form over millennia.
While the mines don’t cater to tourists directly, many guesthouses can help arrange visits. Seeing the miners at work — digging, sifting, and washing — offers a stark contrast to the gleaming jewels displayed in the town’s shops.
Sinharaja Forest Reserve
A visit to Sinharaja Forest Reserve, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, takes you into the heart of Sri Lanka’s last remaining stretch of primary tropical rainforest. This dense, biodiverse jungle is home to unique flora and fauna, including endemic bird species, butterflies, and towering trees that create a lush canopy.
Exploring the forest often means embarking on guided walks along winding trails, where the air is thick with the earthy scent of damp leaves and the occasional call of exotic birds.
Here's one option of a guided tour you can consider. With an experienced guide to help you spot the hidden wonders of this unique ecosystem, you’ll gain a richer appreciation of its biodiversity.
➡ Click here to book
The reserve is a haven for nature enthusiasts, offering a glimpse into a rich ecosystem that has remained relatively untouched by human activity.
For practicalities, arranging a guide is essential, as the forest’s dense vegetation and unpredictable weather can make navigation tricky. Guides also enhance the experience with their knowledge of the local wildlife and plant species. Entry fees are modest, but it’s wise to carry water, snacks, and proper footwear to tackle the sometimes slippery paths.
Accommodation - Staying in Ratnapura
Here are some accommodation options for you.
Budget: Rathna Gems Halt
Rathna Gems Halt in Ratnapura was a perfect choice for my stay — simple, welcoming, and full of charm. The staff made me feel like family, always going above and beyond to ensure I had everything I needed. The food was incredible, with hearty portions and authentic flavours that I’ll be dreaming about for a long time.
The views from the property were stunning, showcasing the lush green hills of the gem city, though the amenities were fairly basic. If you’re after a down-to-earth experience with great hospitality and a genuine connection to Sri Lanka’s heartland, Rathna Gems Halt is an excellent pick.
Mid-Range: Centauria Hill Resort
Centauria Hill Resort in Ratnapura offers a peaceful retreat with stunning city and mountain views. The outdoor pool is a highlight, perfect for unwinding after a day of exploring Sri Lanka’s gem capital. Rooms are spacious and well-equipped with modern conveniences like a minibar and flat-screen TV, and some even come with incredible mountain vistas.
The on-site restaurant serves up delicious meals, and the bar is a great spot to relax. With extras like a hot tub, darts, and car hire options, this mid-range choice adds a touch of luxury to your Ratnapura stay.
High End: Terrace Cinnamon View
If you’re looking to add a touch of indulgence, Terrace Cinnamon View, just 17km from Ratnapura, is a high-end escape. Surrounded by lush greenery, this boutique retreat offers stunning mountain views from private terraces and balconies. The spacious rooms come with modern comforts like air conditioning, flat-screen TVs, and fridges, with some even overlooking the inviting pool.
Start your day with a choice of à la carte, continental, or Asian breakfast, and wind down with a peaceful evening in the beautifully landscaped garden. Though a little removed from the city, its tranquil location makes the short drive well worth it.
Food - Eating in Ratnapura
Dining at Rathna Gems Halt where I stayed was more than a meal — it felt like an event. The owners prepared an incredible feast featuring a variety of curries and local specialties.
The standout dish for me was the pumpkin curry, a perfect balance of spices and sweetness that still lingers in my memory. While Ratnapura may not have a bustling restaurant scene, meals like this, enjoyed with the warmth of local hospitality, make dining here a memorable experience.
I don't have any other recommendations.
Transportation - Getting around Ratnapura
Getting around Ratnapura is relatively straightforward, with several options depending on your preferences.
On Foot
The central area of Ratnapura, including the clock tower and nearby Saviya Street, is compact enough to explore on foot. Walking allows you to browse shops and markets at your leisure. However, for destinations outside the town centre, other transport is necessary.
By Tuk-Tuk
Tuk-tuks are the most convenient way to navigate Ratnapura and its outskirts, including visits to gem mines or guesthouses like Ratna Gem Halt. On arrival, I opted for one to get to the guesthouse — there was no way I was hiking that hill with a 70-litre backpack in the intense heat and humidity.
Transportation - Getting to Ratnapura
Here's how you can reach it.
By Bus
Ratnapura is well-connected by bus services from major cities like Colombo, Kandy, and Galle. Buses from Colombo take about 3-4 hours, with frequent departures throughout the day. The main bus station in Ratnapura is centrally located, making it easy to transition to local transport.
By Train
Though Ratnapura isn't on the primary rail routes, you can take a train to Avissawella and then continue by bus or tuk-tuk to Ratnapura. It’s a slower but scenic option if you have time to spare and want to enjoy the countryside.
UNAWATUNA (Days 14-16)
Unawatuna hums with a rhythm that blends the relaxed vibe of coastal life with shimmering waters and scattered fishing boats. The air carries the tang of salt and the faint char of grilled seafood, while waves rush to meet the shore, brushing against warm sand.
Mornings bring sunlight streaming through the trees, dappling the beach with shifting patterns. Local men wade into the water with fishing rods, their laughter mingling with the calls of crows on swaying power lines. By late afternoon, travellers practice yoga, couples sway in hammocks, and children chase the tide.
As evening falls, beachfront cafés fill with quiet conversation, the breeze stirring candles and cold drinks glistening on tables. The horizon fades into hues of orange and pink, offering an invitation to simply exist in the moment. This is Unawatuna: a place to just be.
Top Attractions and Activities in Unawatuna and Koggala
Unawatuna and surrounding towns offer a mix of relaxing and engaging activities, from stunning beaches to cultural and natural landmarks.
Unawatuna Beach
Unawatuna Beach isn’t the most impressive I’ve visited, but it does have its moments. The shore is lined with buildings that were rebuilt after the devastation of the 2004 tsunami — remarkably in the same precarious spots. While it’s hard not to question the logic of such decisions, life here carries on as usual.
The water is clean and refreshing, a welcome relief from the sweltering heat, even if the beach itself is small. What struck me most were the locals: men swimming in their underwear and women wading in saris. It’s an honest slice of daily life that adds a distinctly Sri Lankan feel to the experience.
For a more active experience, Unawatuna’s gentle waves make it an ideal spot for beginners to try their hand at surfing. Local instructors provide tailored lessons, ensuring you get the hang of the basics while enjoying the laid-back beach vibe.
➡ Book a surfing lesson in Unawatuna here
Yoga Class
I joined a yoga session in Unawatuna, seeking a moment of calm amid the steady rhythm of coastal life. The class took place at the Yoga Dome at Secret Garden, though there are several similar spots around town. The instructor, with his flowing hair and gentle demeanor, embodied the kind of grounded presence you'd expect in such a setting.
He took extra time with me, offering adjustments and observations. At one point, he remarked, “You still have some good energy. You can be saved.” I couldn’t help but laugh — lighthearted and cryptic all at once.
Interestingly, I met a fellow participant who turned out to be on a riding tour through Sri Lanka. We crossed paths again later at the cooking class, a reminder of how small and interconnected the traveller community can feel in a place like this.
For anyone looking to stretch and reset, yoga in Unawatuna offers a chance to connect not only with your body but with kindred spirits along the way.
Karuna's Kitchen Market Visit and Cooking Lesson
Spending a day at Karuna's Kitchen was a standout experience in Unawatuna.
The morning began with a visit to the local market to gather fresh ingredients — vivid greens, vibrant spices, and the ripest produce imaginable. Back at Karuna’s, we were welcomed with cups of ginger tea around a communal table, where she explained the plan for the day.
The process was as immersive as it was educational. We started by desiccating coconut to make fresh coconut milk and cream, a fundamental step in Sri Lankan cooking. Karuna guided us through the preparation of five curries — mango, pumpkin, fish, bean, and daal.
Each dish used simple, accessible ingredients, making the experience not only authentic but also something I could replicate back home. (I still make the mango curry regularly!)
While Karuna demonstrated much of the process herself — a bit more than I would have liked, as we were eager to get more hands-on — it was still a fun and collaborative atmosphere. The group, including the woman I’d met earlier at a yoga class, laughed, shared stories, and marvelled at the sublime flavours we created together.
We wrapped up around 4 p.m., bellies full and spirits high, leaving with a deeper appreciation for the richness and simplicity of Sri Lankan cuisine. This was an experience of connection, culture, and the joy of cooking.
If you too are looking to dive into Sri Lanka’s culinary traditions, a hands-on cooking class is a must. Guided by a local chef, you'll learn to prepare authentic dishes using fresh, local ingredients, all while gaining insight into the island's food culture.
➡ Book your Sri Lankan culinary experience here
Galle Fort
While not in Unawatuna itself, Galle Fort is close enough to make for an easy excursion, perched just a short tuk-tuk ride away to the west.
The Fort, a UNESCO World Heritage site, is a living piece of history built by the Portuguese in the 16th century and fortified by the Dutch in the 17th. Inside its sturdy walls lies a mix of cobblestone streets, colonial-era buildings, and small boutiques selling everything from handmade jewellery to local spices.
The Fort’s ramparts are a highlight, offering panoramic views of the ocean and the bustling town below. Walking along them, you'll smell the salty breeze and be able to watch fishermen at work.
Stilt Fishermen, Koggala
A local bus ride east of Unawatuna, I visited a beach near Koggala that’s home to Sri Lanka’s famous stilt fishermen.
At first glance, the scene was captivating — men perched on slender poles rising out of the waves, silhouetted against the horizon. However, the experience quickly revealed itself to be more performative than practical.
It didn’t take long to realise that these fishermen likely weren’t fishing at all but rather playing to the curiosity of tourists. Attempts to take photos were met with requests for money, which dampened the authenticity I’d hoped for.
After a brief swim in the warm water, two local women approached me to share their stories of surviving the 2004 tsunami.
Their words were deeply moving, though it was clear they were also seeking financial help. I usually avoid giving money directly, preferring to offer food instead, but this time I gave in. Something about their stories compelled me, though the interaction left me with mixed emotions.
While the stilt fishermen have become an iconic image of Sri Lanka, the experience felt more like a tourist trap than a genuine cultural encounter. It wasn’t the highlight of my trip, but it served as a reminder of the complex relationship between tourism and tradition.
Accommodation - Staying in Unawatuna
Here are a few accommodation options for your stay in Unawatuna.
Budget: Rockstel Towers Backpacker Hostel
If you’re after a budget-friendly spot that’s as unpredictable as your travel plans, Rockstel Towers Backpacker Hostel in Unawatuna might just be your vibe. Nestled in a lush, green corner and a short walk from the beach (pro tip: check your email for their secret shortcut), this quirky hostel offers more than a bed — it’s a gateway to spontaneous adventures and new friendships.
Picture laid-back garden beds, family-style dinners bursting with Sri Lankan flavours, and nightly drinking games or quiz nights that’ll keep you laughing into the early hours.
Mid-Range: Nooit Gedacht Heritage Hotel
Nooit Gedacht Heritage Hotel combines old-world charm with mid-range comforts, making it a standout spot in Unawatuna. Set in a beautifully restored Dutch colonial house, the hotel is surrounded by lush gardens and offers two inviting pools. Just a 10-minute walk from Unawatuna Beach, it’s a peaceful retreat that’s still close to the action.
High End: Araliya Beach Resort & Spa Unawatuna
Araliya Beach Resort & Spa Unawatuna is a luxury escape that effortlessly blends beachfront serenity with upscale amenities. Located steps away from the golden sands of Unawatuna Beach, this resort is designed for those who crave both relaxation and sophistication.
From its spacious rooms with private balconies to the lush garden and panoramic terrace, every corner of Araliya Beach Resort invites you to soak up the natural beauty.
Food - Eating in Unawatuna
In Unawatuna, I often kept meals light during the day due to the intense heat, opting for refreshing mango lassis in place of lunch. Breakfasts were included at my guesthouse, typically featuring tropical fruit, toast, and eggs — a simple yet satisfying way to start the day before exploring.
Dinners alternated between cosy beachside restaurants and meals back at the guesthouse. One memorable evening, the guesthouse chef prepared a feast — a spread of flavourful curries, sambols, and rice dishes shared with the manager and fellow guests. It felt like a family-style gathering, and the food was exceptional.
If you're dining out, expect local staples like seafood curries, devilled prawns, kottu roti, and sambols to feature prominently on menus. Restaurants near the beach offer a relaxed atmosphere where you can enjoy Sri Lankan dishes while listening to the waves.
Unawatuna’s food scene, while not extensive, perfectly complements the laid-back coastal vibe.
Transportation - Getting around Unawatuna
Getting around Unawatuna is simple, as it’s a compact town with most attractions easily accessible.
Here’s how to navigate.
On Foot
Walking is the easiest way to explore Unawatuna. The beach, shops, and most restaurants are within a short distance from one another. A stroll along the main road or the shoreline is pleasant.
By Tuk-Tuk
Tuk-tuks are widely available and the quickest way to reach places slightly farther out, such as Koggala or Galle Fort. They’re affordable and convenient.
By Bicycle
Some guesthouses and rental shops offer bicycles for hire, a great option for leisurely rides through the surrounding villages or along the coast. This is particularly enjoyable in the cooler hours of the morning or late afternoon.
By Local Bus
For slightly longer distances, such as trips to Koggala or Galle, local buses are an affordable way to travel. They can be crowded but add a touch of adventure to your journey. Bus stops are typically easy to locate, and routes run frequently along the main road.
Transportation - Getting to Unawatuna
Reaching Unawatuna is fairly straightforward, with several options depending on your starting point and budget.
By Bus
I arrived in Unawatuna by bus from Ratnapura, changing at Matara. This is a common route, as Matara serves as a hub for buses heading along the southern coast. While the buses are frequent and affordable, the journey can be long and crowded, so patience is key.
Tuk-tuks are available for the final stretch if needed.
By Train
The closest train station to Unawatuna is in Galle, about 5km away. Trains along the coastal line connect Galle to Colombo and other major towns. (I took a train from Galle back to Colombo for departure)
From Galle, you can take a tuk-tuk or a local bus to reach Unawatuna.
Save this itinerary for future reference!
Essential Travel Information for your Sri Lanka Itinerary
Here are some key travel tips to ensure a smooth and enjoyable journey through Sri Lanka.
Getting to Sri Lanka
Sri Lanka is an accessible destination with multiple options for international arrivals, primarily by air but also by sea for those on cruises or private vessels.
As an island nation, though, the country cannot be accessed overland.
Here’s an overview of how to reach Sri Lanka.
By Air
The primary gateway to Sri Lanka is Bandaranaike International Airport (CMB) in Colombo, well-connected to major cities across Asia, Europe, the Middle East, and Australia. Direct flights are available from cities like London, Dubai, Singapore, and Bangkok.
Plan ahead to secure competitive fares, and ensure your arrival aligns with your itinerary.
I arrived here from Kuala Lumpur, and departed from here en route to Male in the Maldives.
By Boat
Although limited, some cruise ships dock at Colombo Port, offering travellers the opportunity to include Sri Lanka in a broader maritime itinerary.
Private yachts also occasionally make port stops, but facilities and regulations should be checked in advance.
Getting around Sri Lanka
Here are a few transport options for getting around the country.
By Air
For quick access to remote areas, domestic flights are available through private operators. While pricier than other options, they save significant time, especially for destinations like Jaffna or the east coast.
By Train
Sri Lanka’s scenic train network is a highlight for travellers, with routes like Kandy to Ella showcasing stunning hill country views. Tickets are affordable, with options ranging from reserved first-class seats to unreserved compartments.
Book tickets in advance for popular routes to ensure a comfortable journey.
By Bus
Buses are the most economical way to travel, with a vast network connecting major cities and rural areas. Both government (SLTB) and private buses operate, but be prepared for crowded and sometimes chaotic conditions.
For long distances, consider air-conditioned intercity buses for added comfort.
By Car
Hiring a private car with a driver is a flexible and convenient way to get around the country, especially for groups or those with a tight schedule. Rates vary, so negotiate in advance.
By Tuk-Tuk
Tuk-tuks are ubiquitous and ideal for short distances. However, if you're feeling adventurous, you can rent a tuk-tuk for self-driving across the country. And if you do this, please send me a picture - I want to see it!
(I've heard stories of travellers doing this, but they're mostly speculative)
By Motorbike or Bicycle
Renting a motorbike or bicycle offers an intimate way to explore Sri Lanka’s countryside. While it’s cost-effective and enjoyable, ensure you have the appropriate license and experience for safe travel.
Visa for Travelling to Sri Lanka
As of October 2024, Sri Lanka is offering free 30-day tourist visas for travellers from 35 countries, including the U.S., U.K., India, China, and Russia, as part of a six-month pilot program. This is a great opportunity to save on visa costs if you're planning a visit during this period.
Applying for a Visa
Most travellers will need to apply for an Electronic Travel Authorization (ETA) online before departure. The process is simple, approvals are usually quick (within 24 hours), and it’s best to complete this step in advance. While visas on arrival are available for some nationalities, they often involve longer wait times.
Visa Extensions
If 30 days isn’t enough, you can extend your visa by applying through Sri Lanka’s Department of Immigration and Emigration. The first extension typically allows an additional 60 days, and you can stay up to a maximum of 270 days.
Important Notes
- Passport Validity: Your passport must be valid for at least six months from your date of arrival.
- Yellow Fever Certificate: If you’re coming from a country with a risk of yellow fever, you’ll need proof of vaccination.
- Overstaying: Avoid fines or detention by sticking to your visa’s duration.
Keep in mind that visa policies can change, so double-check the latest requirements with official sources before you travel.
Solo Travel in Sri Lanka: What to Expect
Travelling solo in Sri Lanka turned out to be an incredibly rewarding experience, with local encounters that shaped my journey in ways I doubt would have happened had I been with a companion. Being alone seemed to invite connections — people were curious and eager to engage, whether it was the man beside me on the train offering his phone number in case I needed help down south, or the boy at Thissa Wewa sharing his aspirations for university.
Moving through Sri Lanka alone gave me the flexibility to adapt my itinerary on a whim. I could linger by a serene lake, chat with gem merchants in Ratnapura, or take my time savouring a mango lassi under the shade during the midday heat. Each interaction felt organic, unfiltered, and deeply personal.
Of course, being solo came with its challenges. Navigating public transport required patience and asking for directions often led to animated conversations and even impromptu guidance. The occasional over-friendly tout was a minor inconvenience, but Sri Lanka’s warmth and hospitality always overshadowed such moments.
Solo travel in Sri Lanka isn’t just about independence; it’s about the connections you make, the stories you share, and the experiences you collect along the way.
If you're looking for a destination that balances adventure with authentic human interaction, Sri Lanka is ideal.
Currency and Payments in Sri Lanka
The official currency in Sri Lanka is the Sri Lankan Rupee (LKR), and cash is king in most parts of the country. While major hotels, upscale restaurants, and larger shops in urban areas often accept credit and debit cards, smaller businesses, local eateries, and markets typically deal only in cash.
ATMs are widely available in cities and larger towns, but they can be scarce in rural areas. It’s a good idea to withdraw enough money before heading to remote locations. Many ATMs accept international cards, but fees can vary, so check with your bank beforehand. Denominations are important too — smaller notes are useful for tuk-tuks, street food, and tips.
When it comes to payments, bargaining is a common practice in markets and with tuk-tuk drivers. It’s done in good spirit, so don’t hesitate to haggle respectfully. For solo travellers like me, carrying a mix of small and larger bills made transactions smoother and helped avoid awkward moments when vendors couldn’t provide change.
For safety, I recommend keeping some emergency cash stashed away and using a money belt or secure wallet for daily transactions. If you’re heading out on a longer adventure, you can also exchange money at banks or authorised currency exchange counters, which are reliable and offer fair rates.
Tips to Stay Healthy While Travelling Sri Lanka
Travelling in Sri Lanka was mostly smooth for me health-wise, though I did have a few bouts of diarrhoea — nothing serious, but a good reminder to stay mindful of what you eat and drink.
Here are some practical tips, from your friendly travelling nurse (me), to help you stay healthy during your visit:
- Food and Water: Stick to bottled or boiled water, and avoid tap water and ice unless you're sure it's purified. Choose busy eateries serving cooked food to minimise risks. If trying street food, go for items that are freshly cooked
- Staying Hydrated: The heat and humidity can be intense. Always carry water, and consider electrolyte packets for trekking or long, sunny days.
- Digestive Troubles: For minor gastro-intestinal upsets, remedies like activated charcoal can be a lifesaver. Pack a small travel health kit with essentials.
- Mosquito Protection: Mosquitoes, especially in rural areas, can carry dengue. Use repellents (tea tree oil or peppermint work well for me), and wear long sleeves and trousers in the evenings.
- Sun Safety: The Sri Lankan sun is intense — don't forget a hat and sunglasses, even on cloudy days.
Sri Lanka is generally safe health-wise, and with a little preparation, you’ll be free to soak it in without interruptions. For me, those brief stomach troubles were just a tiny blip in an otherwise incredible journey.
Customising your 2.5 Week Sri Lanka Itinerary
While this itinerary offers a comprehensive guide to exploring Sri Lanka, it’s flexible enough to suit your travel style, interests, and pace. Whether you want to linger longer in cultural hubs, dive deeper into natural wonders, or add a touch of luxury, here’s how you can make it your own:
- Add Extra Time: If you prefer a slower pace, consider extending your stay in places like Ella or Unawatuna. Spend more time relaxing in the hill country or enjoying the coastal vibes.
- Skip or Swap Destinations: Short on time? Skip a destination like Haputale or Ratnapura and focus on fewer locations. Alternatively, swap a stop for something that interests you more, like Arugam Bay for surfing or Yala National Park for wildlife.
- Tailor Activities: If hiking isn’t your thing, replace treks like Little Adam’s Peak with cultural experiences or spa treatments. Love food? Opt for more cooking classes or food tours.
- Adjust for Travel Style: Prefer comfort over adventure? Book private drivers between destinations instead of public transport, or choose boutique accommodations for a touch of luxury.
- Plan for Seasons: Check Sri Lanka’s weather patterns and adjust your itinerary to avoid heavy rains in certain regions. For example, the northeast monsoon may affect travel to Trincomalee or Arugam Bay.
This itinerary is your starting point — tweak it to align with your preferences and make your Sri Lankan adventure truly your own.
Recommended Books for 2.5 Week Sri Lanka Itinerary Planning
When planning a 2.5-week journey through Sri Lanka, a few well-chosen guidebooks and reads can help you make the most of your experience. These books provide practical tips to guide you along the way.
Sri Lanka, by Lonely Planet
The Lonely Planet Sri Lanka guidebook is a trusted companion for many travellers like me. Packed with detailed maps, cultural insights, and practical travel tips, it’s perfect for planning your trip or navigating while on the go.
The guide covers everything from must-see landmarks to hidden gems, as well as food recommendations, transportation tips, and safety advice.
If you're a fan of diving deeper into local history and culture, the guide also includes sections on Sri Lanka’s rich heritage and natural beauty, making it a comprehensive resource. Whether you're travelling solo as I was, or with company, it’s worth having this guidebook.
You can grab a copy online.
Sri Lanka, by Rough Guides
For travellers who want to dive deeper into the cultural, historical, and natural richness of Sri Lanka, The Rough Guide to Sri Lanka is an excellent choice. Known for its comprehensive coverage, this guide offers detailed maps, honest reviews of accommodations and restaurants, and practical advice for navigating the country.
It’s particularly useful for those venturing off the beaten path or looking for insights into Sri Lanka’s lesser-known gems. Whether you're exploring the bustling streets of Colombo, trekking through Ella's tea plantations, or soaking up the history in Anuradhapura, it provides the context and clarity to make your journey more enriching.
Travel Insurance for Visiting Sri Lanka
World Nomads
For my Sri Lanka trip, I chose World Nomads for travel insurance, and it turned out fine.
Sri Lanka's blend of vibrant culture, scenic landscapes, and adventure activities makes it a fantastic destination, but having coverage for unexpected events — whether medical, travel delays, or lost belongings — provides peace of mind.
World Nomads is easy to set up, and knowing I had that safety net allowed me to explore fully, from ancient ruins to lush tea plantations, without stress. Their comprehensive coverage ensured I could focus on enjoying my trip.
FAQs for Visiting Sri Lanka
Find quick answers here to common questions about planning, travelling, and experiencing Sri Lanka.
What are the must-visit destinations in Sri Lanka?
Some must-visit destinations in Sri Lanka include the cultural triangle of Anuradhapura, Sigiriya, and Polonnaruwa; the hill country gems of Kandy and Ella; the coastal retreats of Unawatuna and Mirissa; and the wildlife-rich Yala National Park.
How many days are enough for Sri Lanka?
Two to three weeks is ideal for exploring Sri Lanka, allowing time to visit cultural sites, enjoy scenic train journeys, relax on the beaches, and experience the country's diverse landscapes and wildlife.
However, even a week can give you a good glimpse of its highlights if you plan carefully.
How do I book train tickets?
Train tickets in Sri Lanka can be booked at railway stations, either on the day of travel or a few days in advance for reserved seats. For popular routes like Kandy to Ella, it's advisable to book early through the station or online via travel agencies like 12Go Asia, especially for first-class or observation carriages.
Unreserved tickets are typically available on the day of departure but can be crowded, so arrive early to secure your spot.
What is the best time to visit Sri Lanka?
The best time to visit Sri Lanka depends on the region you plan to explore:
- South and West Coasts & Hill Country: The dry season runs from December to April, making it ideal for beaches and hiking.
- East Coast: The best time to visit is from May to September, when the weather is driest and the seas are calm.
Sri Lanka's tropical climate ensures warm temperatures year-round, but it's wise to plan your trip around these seasons to avoid heavy monsoons.
2.5-Week Sri Lanka Itinerary Conclusion
Sri Lanka is a place you meet. From the quiet moments by lakesides to shared laughter on crowded buses, this 2.5-week journey is as much about the people as it is about the landscapes. Encounters with warm smiles and open conversations fill the spaces between ancient ruins, misty tea fields, and golden shores.
Whether it was a young man sharing his dreams by the water’s edge, strangers offering a helping hand on busy train rides, or a family welcoming me into their home with food and stories, these interactions were the heartbeat of my time here. The temples and beaches were breathtaking, but it was the humanity of Sri Lanka that stayed with me.
This itinerary is a guide, but let it be a springboard for your own moments of connection. Sri Lanka’s real magic is found not just in its landmarks but in the everyday encounters that transform a journey into something unforgettable.
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