Undisputedly one of the planet's most picturesque nations, New Zealand epitomises natural beauty at its best. Although renowned for the South Island’s splendour, it was the raw and rugged natural appeal of the North Island that sparked my intrigue and compelled me to book a flight to Auckland. Following a seven-day road trip north, east, south then west, I compiled an inexhaustible list of North Island 'musts', in the order visited.
Paihia and The Bay of Islands
If swimming in calm bays, sailing alongside dolphins and titillating taste buds on the ocean's freshest catches reflect the desire of your intrepid travel-heart, then including the Bay of Islands on a self-drive itinerary is paramount. A four-hour hike from Auckland International Airport, the drive gave me the opportunity to find my Kiwi lead foot and appreciate the much-acclaimed natural splendour of the passing nature-scape.
Although it's not all 'alps and peaks' like its neighbouring southern counterpart, the translucent emerald glean that lights up the North Island is equally as captivating, and mildly intoxicating. The drive, in part, was evocative of trips through the rolling hills of Ireland and Scotland.
Be sure to take a detour off Highway One along the coast near Paihia, to capture a glimpse of the island's most audacious cliff-hanger homes. The panorama may result in the expenditure of a few additional cardiac beats.
Once in Paihia, hearty nature appreciation - on foot and water - can commence.
Despite its nickname as the land of the long white cloud, the weather in summer is less tempestuous than in other seasons. I was greeted heartily by a wide-blue and (mostly) cloud-free sky, and took advantage of the idyllic weather by gliding across the glistening water with Carino Sailing and Dolphin Adventures through the Bay of Islands. The catamaran weaved through the littering of islands – of which there are more than one hundred, giving seafarers an eyeful of natural beauty while puffing wafts of moist-salty sea air into our nostrils.
The trip would have been unfulfilled without a pod of dolphins leaping jubilantly out of the water alongside the boat; they did not disappoint.
The day wasn't all about shaky sea legs: with a stop at Motuarohia Island, we got sand between our toes and leaves in our faces en route to the island's peak. With 360 degree views, the region's beauty manifested on a visual smorgasbord.
A visit to the region wouldn’t have been complete without an afternoon ferry ride to Russell. As the earliest European settlement in New Zealand, the quaint town oozes historical allure. Thanks to its idyllic setting – on the waterfront a stone’s throw from Paihia, it also oozes quintessential coastal charm and a laidback small town vibe.
Following a stroll along the wild shoreline, through the shops and up Flagstaff Hill, I retired to The Duke of Marlborough Hotel. It’s here that I watched the sun disappear over the horizon while sipping on a pint of New Zealand’s finest.
Rotorua
A magnet for adrenaline junkies, adventure lovers and nature aficionados, this North Island geothermal hotspot has a little s'um' s'um' for every travel palette. If the words 'bungee jumping', 'abseiling' and 'zorbing' amplify the adrenaline coursing through your body, then Rotorua warrants a spot on your driving itinerary. For those a little fainter of heart, there are ample other ways to pass time tranquilly.
After meandering a metre or two away from the hostel door, I found myself surrounded by culinary overload: a city centre market replete with every flavour and saliva-inducing smell home to the region. Boasting more than a hundred restaurants and cafes, food appreciation in Rotorua will consume some of your time and waistline.
A short drive east of town will take you to Hellsgate Geothermal Park. I spent several hours covering my skin in sticky mud and washing away the impurities I'd collected by wading through the malodorous sulphur spa.
Once clean, smell-free and rejuvenated, saying goodbye to the sun by Lake Rotorua was an idyllic and picture-perfect way to capture a lasting memory of the North Island's eternally beating heart.
If you’re still in need of further relaxation, however, then head to Polynesian Spa on Hinemoa Street. Overlooking the lake, one can embrace nature in all its glory by slipping into and moving between the retreat’s five mineral hot pools.
After an hour of two of pool-hopping, I topped off the visit to the luxurious Spa by opting to get pampered: as I laid there half-naked, the coconut sugar that had been scrubbed into every crevice of my skin filled the air with tropical aroma. After some time, jet streams of warm water cascaded over me, washing away the scrub and exfoliating my entirety.
Wai-o-tapu Geothermal Wonderland (including Lady Knox Geyser, Mudpools and Natural Hot Springs)
Pictures abound of underwater red silica - alongside the earth's crust - intermittently covered in puffs of steam, instilling a sense of wanderlust in wannabe visitors. However, seeing Mother Nature's wonderment first-hand at Wai-o-tapu is unbeatable.
An area of immense geothermal activity, walking the trail – which takes one to two hours - through the park is ethereal; it's rooted at the core of nature appreciation. From sulphur pits to multi-coloured mineral deposits to craters and the Champagne Pool, Wai-o-tapu has it all.
Included in the ticket is a 10.15am visit to Lady Knox Geyser. Facilitated (a little) to ensure regular eruption, the single jet of water that vented from within projected some twenty metres into the air. Although seemingly a little artificial – thanks to the use of a detergent, it was still a spectacular worth attending.
Don't forget to visit the exploding mud pools (boiled continually by the water beneath the surface) on the way out of the Wonderland.
To further wash away the skin's impurities and unravel every hidden coil and muscular kink throughout your body, turn right off State Highway Five (heading towards Rotorua) at Old Wai-o-tapu Road and drive down the pothole-littered dirt road to Kerosene Creek. You'll be therapeutically rewarded for making the bumpy drive: as the hot geothermally heated water meets the cool creek, it fuses – almost symbiotically – to create a perfectly warmed aquatic environment.
Sitting amid native bushland, I passed a few hours in the king size pool, chatting to other travellers and sharing stories.
Tamaki Maori Village
As their feet thumped rhythmically on the sodden ground, the painted faces and mouths that – moments earlier – had contorted into peculiar shapes, projected manly grunts into the cool evening air. The Maori men, bedecked in nothing other than traditional skirts, performed the war dance famously synonymous with New Zealand – the Haka. The throng of tourists gathered at the entrance of Tamaki Maori Village (a 20-minute drive from Rotorua) as the Maori staff performed a customary and hearty welcome.
For a similarly entertaining initiation to Maori culture, be sure to visit the village while staying in the region. Although a major tourist attraction, despite the hordes, I was still able to gain an understanding of the unique ethos underpinning Maori ways, and be ‘hands on’ in some of the entertainment, such as the Haka.
If nothing else, watching a hangi preparation and tucking into the result at the end of the evening is worth the admission price.
Tauranga and The Bay of Plenty
For a slice of white sandy Pacific paradise, head to Tauranga in the Bay of Plenty. There is certainly no shortage of beauty; in fact, it abounds, and is mostly free to experience.
Take a walk along the strand to see the harmony between architecture and nature. Wade in the shallow waters of the pounding Pacific, play rugby with likeminded travellers on the beach or simply watch life unfold while sipping on a latte at a waterside café.
Nature and adventure activities are plentiful, so engage your sense of wanderlust and slide it to full throttle.
Matamata
It has risen to fame as the Hollywood home of the Lord of the Rings. However, this North Island gem is more than hirsute hobbits and humble homes.
The town itself gives visitors a slice of Kiwi culture with a thriving food and history scene. From chic cafes to stone towers and a middle-earth looking information centre, there are ample opportunities to work the lenses of your respective cameras.
The surrounding landscape is just as captivating, dubbed the agricultural heartland of the country. Of course, for Lord of the Rings devotees, a visit to the Hobbiton movie set is requisite to any Matamata sojourn.
I opted for a hike along the town’s Heritage Trail, appreciating the natural beauty of local gardens and historical sites.
Wairere Falls
If you’d like to work off some of the extra pounds you’ve likely accumulated after indulging in hearty New Zealand fare, then try hiking the trail to Wairere Falls (the entrance located a short drive from Rotorua, Tauranga or Hamilton).
There are two key vantage points along the trail: if you’re satisfied with a frontal mid-height view that requires minimal effort, then a 1.5-hour return trek will suffice; otherwise, a full-glory summit standpoint with an uncut view of the cascading water will necessitate three to four hours of your time and a moderate level of cardiac fitness.
Both vantage points – according to hiker reports thanks to my midlevel finish – allow visitors to capture the raw untouched beauty of the forest. The serenity imbued by proximity to the natural environment is priceless.
It was an idyllic way to conclude my chapter on North Island exploration.
