Ever dreamed of overnighting aboard a historic train, crossing some of East Africa’s greenest savannah to be awoken by the salty aroma of the Indian Ocean, where coastal winds stir coconut palms? At $60 a ticket for first-class, rattling from Nairobi to Mombasa through Kenya’s Tsavo West National Park on board the Jambo Kenya Deluxe has never been more appealing.
When visiting East Africa, adding this iconic journey to your exotic itinerary is a must. Hurry, though, as the 15-hour colonial-era journey is morphing: passengers will soon be thrust across the landscape in only five hours, or so experts say.
Departing Nairobi
On that fresh September night in 2011, the atmosphere on the platform was awash with a sense of geniality and adventure. Travel weary ‘mzungu’ faces - recently returned from safaris and overland journeys - were abounding with anticipation: the Indian Ocean with its balmy winds and coastal scents was only a short five-hundred-and-thirty-kilometre train ride away.
At the time of writing, trains were scheduled to depart Nairobi Railway Station weekly at seven pm, although they rarely left on time. This has now increased to three departures weekly on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays.
Like most places in Nairobi, caution is required in public to maintain personal safety; Nairobi Railway Station is no exception. Never leave belongings unattended and ensure information is derived from a legitimate, trustworthy source. Once on board, it must be noted that cabin doors can only be locked from the inside. Ensure valuables are transported to dinner, as leaving them unattended in unlockable cabin rooms may end in disaster.
On this occasion, once settled in after a two-hour delay, the train pulled away from Nairobi and ambled its way to the seashore.
Train Facilities and Inclusions
If in possession of a first- or second-class ticket, you can expect a bunk bed in a cabin complete with a vanity sink, necessary for washing away the impurities obtained from exposure to the East African elements. Although they exude a somewhat ‘rustic’ charm, the small compartments are satisfactory for a good night’s sleep.
The difference between first and second class is quantity: first class cabins comprise two beds; whereas those of second class contain four. Third class ticket holders can expect seating only, without access to dining facilities.
The price of first- and second-class tickets includes access to the dining car and, as such, a three-course dinner and hot breakfast. Although not Michelin star quality, the food sees you comfortably reaching satiety without the urge to dash to the bathroom with the unmentionables.
For a meager traveler on a shoestring budget in the middle of a Cairo-to-Cape Town itinerary, the food could almost - in a Malaria-induced delirious state - resemble the cornucopia of a French kitchen: delicious; hearty; and refined. It was adequate, especially when the price of the ticket was considered.
The Jambo Kenya Deluxe Journey
Less than express and worth a few less bucks than deluxe, the 15-hour journey - which on this occasion departed two-hours late - caters to an eccentric-cum-intrepid spirited traveller. A step back in time, the décor exudes a quaint tenor characteristic of post-colonial British creations. Enter the only dining car of The Jambo Kenya Deluxe and the eccentricities materialise: white tablecloths cover old-fashioned tables, topped with silverware and chipped china, all of which are tended by waiters adorned in stained white jackets; it is the only place in which to mingle with other like-minded, adventurous souls on board.
Despite obvious hygienic and interior design concerns, the genial mood is never disrupted, particularly on day two while passing mud huts, diversifying savannah landscapes, animals of various shapes and sizes and people on the banks of the track. ‘Jambo’ is the warm-hearted entreaty that bounds over the roar of the old engine.
As an independent traveller, one is always forced - particularly in confined spaces - to become acquainted with others: in this instance, a compatible Belgian couple at dinner and breakfast.
The design of the dining car of The Jambo Kenya Deluxe lends itself to a forced intimacy between strangers: as space is limited, passengers are squeezed into seats to utilise them effectively. On this occasion, the intimacy at dinner was enhanced by a bottle of red wine and a few bottles of beer, all available for purchase on board.
Darkness had enveloped the landscape, and laughter complemented the bright starry sky as personal stories unfolded and passengers became acquainted, at least until tiredness overwhelmed travel weary bodies; then it was lights out.
Arriving in Mombasa
After a night of gentle and occasional violent rocking to and fro, rousing from sleep is challenging. However, you must blink twice to ensure sleep has passed, especially when glancing outside: greeted by sweeping savannahs replete with native African fauna, Kenya has put on its best show.
As the light of dawn creeps over the landscape, it dispels the night’s shadows to expose raw Kenyan charm: antelope running; zebra in search of food; and local faces beaming with hearty coastal smiles directed towards the train’s passengers.
After engaging in more wholesome conversation over breakfast with newly acquired acquaintances, it is time to prepare for a day of adventure in and around the Indian Ocean.
Again, caution is required in regard to personal security when disembarking at Mombasa Train Station. Keep belongings close and make way for the exit, doing so while exuding a sense of confidence. This will ensure harm, either deliberate or unintentional, is minimised.
Mombasa hosts a vast array of lodgings, most of which can be pre-booked (see Your RV Lifestyle's 100 Things to do in Kenya article). Selecting lodgings prior to arrival is recommended to avoid being led down an exorbitantly priced and unsavoury path.
To Fly or Go by Train?
As the great nineteenth century literary genius Ralph Emerson once alluded, “Life is a journey, not a destination.”
In line with this astute sentiment, taking the time to travel by train between Nairobi and Mombasa - despite the journey’s obvious eccentricities - is rewarding and personally enriching. Despite outdated décor, simple amenities and a dearth of thermoregulatory facilities, taking this historic journey will be fulfilling and should leave passengers replete with a sense of satisfaction. After all, it is the alleged imperfections and their inimitable qualities that define The Jambo Kenya Deluxe’s charm: the characteristic ambiance; the uniform-stained convivial staff; the travellers with whom meal time becomes intimate; the scenery; and, most importantly, the many faces of the Kenyans who line the track.
However, if train travel is unappealing, then one-hour flights which operate eleven times daily between the two cities may whet your sagacious travel appetite.
NOTE: Sadly, during a blackout while using a computer at an internet cafe on Zanzibar, some of the photos chronicling my journey through Kenya were lost, irretrievably. As such, I have no photos of the train to share.
