If dozing in a hammock, feasting on fabulous fodder, replenishing your mind and soul with full-body pampering and getting festive at night are your idea of paradise, then Koh Samui is your getaway. Personally, I was not overawed by the southern Thai island: overly commercialised, sybaritically minded and a little over-visited, it didn’t have the authentic flair for which I’d hoped.
However, it does contain the requisite tick-list features of tropical island living: fine beaches, sensualist dining and idyllic mind, body and soul pampering options. It simply takes some local knowledge and your own two wheels to escape and find the island’s true beauty.
By following this itinerary, you can experience some of Samui’s finer aspects. The starting point can be changed, depending on the location of your accommodation. However, if you’re completing it on a Friday, ensure you finish at Fisherman’s Village, as the food and beverage options here are great.
Bang Po Beach
Kickstart your scooter in Bang Po, feeling the morning breeze as you ride through the tranquil surroundings. The scooter’s nimbleness makes it perfect for exploring the narrow roads and hidden gems around the beach. The open road promises freedom and adventure, enhancing your connection to the island.
Laid-back Bang Po is a five-kilometre stretch of off-white sand, along the north-western coast of the island. Perhaps not as dynamic as Chaweng, it offers something different: the opportunity to escape the commercialist barrage, and truly unwind in a low-key setting with minimal distractions.
I stayed at The White Pearl Beach Resort (which was slightly above my meagre backpacker budget but still affordable) and was in a waterfront bungalow, a mere three steps away from the tidal Gulf waters. Residing so close to the water’s edge is a rarity on the island, unless you can afford five-star luxury.
Most properties along Bang Po beach, however, do reside at the water’s edge permitting intimacy with nature (although many are private lets or long-term rentals). Take a walk along a stretch of beach, then stop to chow down glorious Thai flavours at a restaurant or café.
Tan Rua Waterfall
Known also as ‘secret waterfall’, intimacy with Mother Nature - although not guaranteed - is likelier here than elsewhere on Koh Samui. Challenging to find without a mud map detailed by a friendly local, few people are inclined to visit. There are sections of unpaved road, which can create exigency if arriving on a wet day.
The ride to Tan Rua Waterfall is an adventure in itself. As you leave the main roads and venture onto narrower paths, the scooter's agility becomes a true asset. Navigating the unpaved, sometimes muddy roads can be tricky, especially after rain, adding an element of excitement and challenge to the journey. The path winds through dense greenery, offering glimpses of the natural beauty that awaits.
Despite a lack of navigational expertise, thanks to the directions I’d been given, I arrived with ease and was instantly pleased: located in a picturesque setting, enclosed by cliffs, vines and towering trees, I was enveloped by a cloak of tranquillity. Fresh mist sprayed my skin, washing away layers of debris and spoil, purifying me to the core.
Rather than swim in the pool of water, I basked in the sun on a rock and listened to the sounds of the forest as they ushered away my worries of the world.
Simply ask staff at your respective lodgings for directions. There are few signposts, so pay close attention to the turns, bends and landmarks they describe.
Hin Ta Hin Yai (‘Phallic’ Rock)
The drive from the waterfall to Hin Ta Hin Yai is magical. Traversing the core of the island, each mountain peak en route opens to a panorama of emerald green and brilliant blue.
Riding a scooter through these landscapes offers a sense of freedom and connection to the environment. The scooter allows you to feel the changes in terrain and temperature as you ascend and descend the island’s peaks.
Once on the south of the island, a stop at ‘Grandfather and Grandmother’ rocks is recommended. Theories abound about the genesis of their formation, the more lascivious of which associates the shapes with elements of human anatomy. Take a close look at the picture below, employ your imagination and perhaps a little eroticism and discern for yourselves the association.
Pornography aside, the formations, from a geological and natural-beauty perspective, are worthwhile visiting.
There is paid scooter parking a few metres along the path back from the beach.
Tarnim Magic Garden (aka Secret Buddha Garden)
Winding your way through more mountainous roads with breathtaking panoramas will take you to the Secret Buddha Garden. Riding a scooter through these winding paths is an exhilarating experience, offering stunning views and a sense of adventure. The scooter's maneuverability makes it easy to navigate the narrow, curving roads that lead to this hidden gem.
Not as clandestine as I’d anticipated, the surroundings are peaceful, a statue-littered garden through which trickles – or on rainy days gushes – a stream, all veiled by dense jungle flora.
Built by Nim Thongsuk in 1976, the gardens are a testament to his green thumb prowess and Buddhist ideology, a beautifully planned jungle of mythological origins and ecclesiastical overtones. There’s no better place to take a wrong turn than in the garden: step behind a tree or inside a cavern and unearth a trinket that’ll undoubtedly leave you surprised (and I’m not referring to snakes).
Despite the monsoonal downpour, I thoroughly enjoyed meandering through the vine, statue and foliage-littered magical grounds.
Jungle Club Boutique Restaurant
While travelling, I rarely have the financial capacity on my meagre budget to visit anything containing the word ‘boutique’. However, getting a glimpse of the island’s eastern frontier from the heights of the Jungle Club Boutique (resort and restaurant) was worth the slightly overpriced coconut milkshake, sipped slowly while admiring the panorama.
You needn’t be a resort guess to visit the restaurant: simply smile, choose a table by the edge, and order an item you’re financially equipped to purchase.
The scooter ride up to the Jungle Club adds a touch of adventure to your visit. There is free parking for scooters a short walk downhill from the resort’s entrance.
Chaweng Beach
Iconic for sunrise and people watching, it is perhaps the most beautiful of all Samui’s beaches. Wider, and longer than most, lined with coconut palms, boasting year-long warm temperatures, it’s a veritable stop on any Samui exploration-itinerary.
I personally got a little frustrated, as beach access is limited, thanks to the wall of restaurants and resorts fringing its entrance.
Regardless, the pristine sand, iconic panorama and body pampering options along the periphery imbued the tranquillity I was seeking.
Riding a scooter here allows for quick navigation through the busy areas, making it easier to find those perfect beach access points.
Wat Phra Yai (Temple and Big Buddha)
Large and shiny, the Big (golden) Buddha sits prominently on the island’s north-eastern coast. A religious site at the core, the Buddha is on its own island: Koh Fan. Built in 1972, the 12-metre Buddhist symbol forms part of a larger temple complex, Wat Phra Yai.
It’s best visited at sunset, the colour evolving into a deep, rich honey. It was busy when I visited, and I daresay there are few opportune times during which to escape the masses. It is iconic, after all, so expect to have a wait before posing for a shot in front of the big guy.
As is the case with all religious sites in Asia (and worldwide, really), there are strict dress codes to which to adhere. The beach attire you donned in the morning will likely be inappropriate for stepping inside. Ensure knees, shoulders and abdomens are covered by fabric.
The scooter ride to Wat Phra Yai is smooth and scenic, making it an enjoyable journey with easy parking available near the temple complex.
Bophut Fisherman’s Village Walking Street (weekly on a Friday night)
A short drive from the Buddha is Bophut Fisherman’s Village. Alive and kicking every Friday night, it’s here that shopaholics and knickknack collectors can indulge their every spending desire. Beware, though: some items in the market stalls are of questionable quality (and are the same paraphernalia found all through Thailand in tourist centres), so have reasonable expectations about functionality, and ensure the price is absolutely right before diving in to a purchase.
The boutique shops sell higher quality and more unique items, and they migrate into the streets on Fridays. Foodies, too, aren’t left in want: stalls of freshly cooked Thai delights abound, from savoury starters to delicious desserts. Whether it’s pad Thai, banana pancakes or tempura seafood you desire, it can be found at the markets, at very reasonable prices.
Following a leisurely stroll and nibble, I retired to a beach bar, lazed on a sand-bound cushion, and sipped on a mojito to the melodic sounds of George Ezra.
The scooter ride to Bophut Fisherman’s Village is straightforward, with ample parking available, making it easy to explore the bustling market.
Create Your Own Koh Samui One Day Itinerary
The suggestions within this itinerary are simply that, suggestions. Not all of the sights may appeal to every variant of traveller, and a few many be inaccessible if you’re unwilling or afraid to ride a scooter.
Feel free to mix it up, add alternative options or remove these as you see fit.
Suitable for Solo Travellers?
I encountered no problems touring the island on my own. In fact, riding around on the back of two motorised wheels with the wind in my hair invoked a liberating sense of freedom. I never felt embarrassed being on my own, at any of the sites listed throughout this article. In fact, I think they are all suitably tailored, to soloists and groups alike.
Feel free to get in touch if you have any questions, and share your thoughts below.
