Brunei Darussalam is a land of contrasts — a small Sultanate with some of the most striking Islamic architecture I’ve ever encountered and a wealth of pristine natural beauty, thanks to its location on the lush island of Borneo.
The capital, Bandar Seri Begawan, though, lacks excitement. It feels subdued, with limited attractions beyond the mosques and museums. Brunei shines more brightly when you step beyond the city. A homestay in a stilted kampong home or connecting with locals offers a far richer experience than sticking to the urban centre.
The rainforests, conserved by the oil-driven economy, remain untouched by the encroachment of palm-oil plantations. If you venture beyond the capital, you’ll find these old-growth forests relatively easy to access, offering a glimpse of unspoiled nature rarely found elsewhere. Unfortunately, my time was limited, so I stayed within the city limits, but the draw of Brunei’s natural landscapes has left me wanting to return.
In 2019, the country made global headlines by enacting the final stage of Sharia Law, sparking international outcry. The new laws include harsh penalties such as stoning for homosexual acts, the same punishment for adultery, and limb amputation for theft. These laws may not always be enforced, but their presence casts a long shadow over tourism, particularly for LGBTQ+ travellers and others who may feel vulnerable under such strict legislation.
Safety in Brunei goes beyond the physical — it requires a careful awareness of its legal and cultural landscape.
Brunei offers an intriguing mix of grandeur and conservation, but it’s not without its complexities. If you decide to visit, approach it with curiosity and caution, and ensure you’re informed about how to navigate the legal and cultural environment.
I hope this overview of Brunei Darussalam has provided some clarity on what to expect in this tiny nation.