The south-western Scottish city has bravely borne its ‘stab city’ trademark moniker for years but times could be changing: with specialised police units targeting crime and weapon-bearing culprits in the streets, the chance of encountering a Scot brandishing a butcher knife or a pistol are reducing. Despite the ongoing perpetration of damaging stereotypes, you need only partly unveil the moniker to reveal a different picture: Glasgow, Scotland’s biggest city, boasts an eclectic array of ethereal features guaranteed to satisfy the travel appetites of most visitors.
With an overarching tenor of sociability exhibited by its genial inhabitants, a weekend spent in Glasgow will likely leave you content, with a lingering taste for more. It did for me.
With that thought in tow, take a look at this itinerary for a weekend in Glasgow.
Getting Started
The gateway to a city’s soul is often through its people.
Glasgow is no exception.
Equipped with nothing other than essentials, our morning jaunt into the city centre and through its historic streets – many dating back to medieval times - was met with geniality and lots of incidental friendly chatter. From a passing wave and smile to a “Hello” and “Walcome” hollered from the other side of the street, we felt at home. The general mood in the air and disposition of those we met remained unchanged throughout the day, regardless of the historic site, restaurant or public place in which we met.
The encounters painted a positive picture of the city, highlighting a single imperative: leaving the confines of one’s accommodation is central to embracing the heart of Glasgow’s soul.
Essential Nourishment
It wasn’t long before our stomachs were rumbling, directing our attention to the city’s culinary scene. Vital to any exploration on foot is regular nourishment through culinary replenishment; Glasgow is not short on options.
For breakfast, we chose a chic cafe festooned with vintage furniture and ornate decorations, an establishment boasting an eclectic mix of menu items. I elected comfort food and selected the all-too-familiar pancakes as my source of morning nourishment.
Lunch approached rapidly, after a brisk walk and museum visit and sent us searching for tradition in an iconic setting. It led us to Oran Mor, a Glaswegian establishment: previously a church – with an exterior still evocative of ecclesiastical origins, its internal structure has been renovated and is now host to a bar, restaurant, music venue, night club and beautifully designed auditorium.
Although I wasn’t served my classic steak and ale pie (for S£9.95) by a kilt-clad Scotsman customarily dressed ‘free spiritedly’ without underwear (although knowing so may have involved an embarrassing conversation), the fact remained: the flavours were sensational, as were the surroundings.
If it’s haggis and black pudding you’re after, then – per recommendations from Traveller author Carla Grosetti - look to The Pot Still. Similarly, most pubs dotted throughout the city also serve the famous Scottish ‘scran’, as do establishments along Ashton Lane: the city’s trendiest street.
For up to date dining recommendations, refer to Carla’s article in Traveller.
Relics of Yesteryear and Undercurrents of Sophistication
With origins dating to the tenth century and a Victorian presence woven through the city’s architecture, moving past the oft-perceived earthy-cum-rough veneer is simple: visit a relic of yesteryear, dine at a first-class restaurant (highlighted earlier) or attend a concert at King Tut’s Wah Wah Hut. The enduring sophistication beneath the exterior will soon become apparent.
Start dismantling the veneer by walking through the campus of the University of Glasgow. Established five hundred and fifty years ago, its eminent structures and profound legacy shone a bright light on our tour of the grounds. Visited by Einstein who lectured eager students on his ground-breaking theory of relativity early in the twentieth century, the architectural prowess of the sky-reaching spires atop the tower were thus not the sole source of our jaw-dropping awe.
Surrounded by other old-worldly buildings and rutted streets constructed out of historic cobblestones, Glasgow depicts a characteristic portrait of Britain’s past.
Moving forward several centuries took us to see Ben Lee live at King Tut’s Wah Wah Hut.
Acclaimed to be “The finest small venue in the world” by NME, the 300-capacity gig area was ideal for listening to the upbeat melody of Lee’s iconic-Australian grassroots music.
He is not the only internationally celebrated artist to have played at King Tut’s: Oasis, The Killers, Florence and the Machine and Snow Patrol have wowed eager audiences with their melodic and varied tunes over the years. It was an ideal way of rounding out Saturday’s activities.
The Magic of the Lochs
As the open fire crackled and cast flickers of red, orange and yellow through the log cafe, I reclined the leather armchair, inhaled the aroma of the hot chocolate emitting steam from the mug wrapped between my palms and gazed through the window. A light mist swept across the water: evocative of an ancient fairy tale, Loch Lomond presented an image of mystique.
A thirty-minute drive from Glasgow, gaining access to the essence of Scotland is simple. As the gateway to the Scottish Highlands - another dreamland altogether, visiting Loch Lomond is an ideal way to spend the latter half of a weekend in Glasgow.
Since writing this article based in 2006, times have changed and crime rates have dropped significantly according to a report released by The UK Peace Index.
