It all began with a dare. Ben, one of my flatmates from London – a longstanding Australian friend – thought me incapable of spontaneously booking a trip. With a personality comprising distinct traits of neuroticism, throwing caution to the wind and arriving in a foreign land completely unprepared was unappetising. To assuage his taunts, I enlisted his help, obtained suitable dates of availability and with eyelids completely sealed at the lashes pointed my right forefinger to a European map open on his laptop. Feebly raising one eyelid, to my great surprise, I’d selected our next globetrotting adventure: Romania, for five November days. Agreeing to do little more than book the first night’s accommodation in the country’s capital, we reserved tickets for the following fortnight and waited. Here's what unfolded for Ben and I during a trip to Romania.
Bucharest - the City's Real Character
Stepping foot onto the tarmac at Henri Coandă International Airport two weeks later, despite a lack of adequate pre-arrival preparation, brought a smile to my scarf-wrapped face. Unbeknownst to Ben, I’d done some ‘light’ reading about the country’s history and significant cultural attractions before leaving London. I believe one can only be successfully spontaneous on the road in the absence of ignorance. Fuelled by at least a skerrick of accurate information, impulsively embracing the core of a new country is much more rewarding.
Following arrival at the city centre hostel, we set about exploring the southern capital’s many streets. According to a light shed by a piece of travel literature I read several years post-visit, Bucharest has been labelled one of “The world’s best cities with the worst reputations”. The purportedly wicked reputation could, in part, be believed by visiting the colossal communist-era Palatul Parlamentului (Palace of Parliament). While wandering through a stately city park, we raised our heads and saw the structure: it filled our fields of vision and dominated the landscape. Complete with over one thousand rooms, it was the most vacuous homage to communism I’d ever seen.
However, it was the only tasteless and ‘wicked’ sight we saw in Bucharest. From hideaway cafes to hidden mansions and ageless churches, the city wielded a killer smile that piqued my curiosity. Although bleak at times, mostly due to the grey autumn skies that lurked overhead, the city emitted a mild solar energy. It left me wishing we’d not so hastily moved on to the northern entreat of Transylvania.
Peleș Castle - Neo-Renaissance Enchantment
En route to Brasov – a famous city of which I knew before reading any guidebook, we interrupted the arctic journey by getting off the train 1.5 hours early, near the city of Sinaia. Home to Peleș Castle, a neo-renaissance palace nestled in the Carpathian Mountains, we spontaneously climbed the icy roads leading to its sky-reaching spires. After sliding backward then inching forward several times, we made it to the snow-covered gardens surrounding the nineteenth century royal residence. It was originally commissioned by Romania’s first King, Carol I, as a summer residence.
Constructed out of stone and trimmed by beautifully stained wood, the castle’s outward appearance is unique. The falling snow was enchanting and created a fable-like atmosphere. As people slid back down the road toward the train station, misfortune materialised: thanks to lack of preparation, we’d arrived on the only day of the week the castle is closed. Deciding to make the most of it, we glided across the grounds and enjoyed the magic of the falling snow.
Brașov - The Heart of Transylvania
Hours later – following an unfashionable fall onto my denim-clad backside down icy restaurant stairs, the next train from Bucharest transported us north, to Brașov. Sitting at the heart of Transylvania, a region synonymous with medieval towns, gothic architecture and count Dracula, Brașov attracts most of the country’s visitors.
Walking through the city, we stopped and gazed heavenward, in awe: not unlike California’s Hollywood, the city’s name was plastered across the mountainside, in large, bold white letters. Below the famous name, the streets were ablaze with lights and a flurry of people dressed fashionably in winter attire. To my surprise, older women flaunted various cuts and colours of fur coat as they sauntered around Piata Sfatului in the city’s core. Smiles were reciprocated by passers-by as we moved from street to street.
Spontaneity befitted our time in Brasov, as an unplanned walk through the heart of the city was as enchanting as a planned visit to a noteworthy museum. As we walked, the impressive baroque architecture painted a convivial scene reminiscent of the seventeenth century. We noticed a funicular moving up and down the mountainside, so, on day two, we made haste for the station. In 2.5 short minutes, we were standing on top of snow covered Mount Tampa. Before indulging our inner children, we admired the impressive panorama of the beautiful city surrounded by mountains. As the snowman materialised, the blue sky emerged and the sun began shining through shifting grey clouds. The beauty of the region shone radiantly.
Reflecting - Travels through Romania
Returning to London several days later, after an eventful departure following arrival at the wrong airport in Bucharest - two hours before take-off, I reflected: although not one hundred percent spontaneous, travelling more unreservedly gave me a taste of freedom. I noticed the charisma imbued in Romania’s key features no guidebook or travel article could have highlighted. I permitted the country and its beautiful cities to demonstrate their beauty without preconceived ideas or expectations. Charm me they did; I flew west with a desire for uncovering more of the treasures hidden in Romania’s trove, a travel-thirst I'd recommend you cultivate.
