Located in the heart of colonial-endowed Bulawayo is The Bulawayo Club which is a working gentlemen’s club and a redolent throwback to Zimbabwe’s Southern Rhodesia days. Now a hotel with a working restaurant and bar to boot, the relic is a living museum of a not-so-distant part of the country’s history.
I stopped by on my first night in Bulawayo (which happened to be New Years Eve) to savour the savoir faire of and nostalgia created by men in tuxedos, women in ball gowns and a regal-cum-eclectic atmosphere of festivity.
History of The Bulawayo Club
Established in 1895 as a social club for men of the armed forces and other gentlemen - ladies rarely permitted entry, it has seen its fair share of dignitary over the years.
Flipping through the guestbooks in the elegant foyer, prominent names lifted off the parched pages, emboldened by the post-nominal cascade of letters behind each cursive entry. Founded by Prince George and King George VI, British touches underpin even the most benign details in each room.
The antique lamps, black and white portrait photographs, original wooden staircase and furniture and cricket insignia had me feeling reminiscent of living in England.
The Club has been well-preserved and transformed into a visit-worthy feature of the Zimbabwean city.
Paying The Club a Visit
Don’t be deterred by the seemingly ornate design, regal overtones and immaculately presented Zimbabwean staff: you need not tuxedo- or frock-up merely to pay a visit (although doing so may earn you a few head nods and take you on a nostalgic journey to the bastion of fortitude’s past).
As the tuxedos and ball gowns made their way up the spiral staircase to a ballroom on the first floor, I meandered around the foyer and made my way through wooden doors to the colonnaded courtyard which is where I was ushered to a seat, presented with a glass of red and handed an intriguing menu. After a reasonably-priced and sumptuous steak dinner - savoured under the evening sky - with none other than apple crumble and ice cream for dessert, I sought permission to wander upstairs (out of sight of the better-dressed guests) to further explore the interior.
As the floorboards creaked, so another beautifully designed and decorated room emerged from behind semi-closed doors. I entered countless spaces, my mouth agape in awe and eyes transfixed with pleasure at each turn. Musical overtures began filling the air with glee as the soirée in the ballroom kicked off.
Slightly envious, after 30-minutes of exploration, I made my way back to the foyer, signed out and thanked the receptionist for permitting me entry for the evening.
Worth a Visit
Although only brief (and dressed too casually), I’m thankful I visited the tastefully designed slice of Zimbabwean history. I was well-fed, made to feel welcome and ushered into a world that’s now mostly a memory of a bygone era.
If you’re visiting Bulawayo, set aside some time to visit the club. Entry is free and there’s no expectation that you’ll stay or even eat. A walk through is certainly permissible.
Don’t forget a visit to Matobo National Park while you’re in the region to walk with White Rhinos and see ancient cave paintings.
Further Information
Getting to Bulawayo - TRANSPORTATION
By Air
There is an international airport in Bulawayo, called Joshua Mqabuko Nkomo International Airport.
It apparently only operates 16-hours a day. Points of departure are mostly restricted to cities in South Africa. Airlines servicing the airport include:
Airlink
Air Zimbabwe (which was grounded when I was visiting during 2019-2020 due to appalling safety standards)
South African Express
For flights to other destinations in Zimbabwe, compare the following websites:
There are a variety of bus companies that operate various routes around Zimbabwe and between Zimbabwe and neighbouring countries. Some of them connect cities, such as Harare, Victoria Falls and Johannesburg, with Bulawayo (albeit not always directly). Be advised that many cannot be booked: it's a show up on the day kind of deal.
Eagleliner, though, operates on a booking system. It's the company I used to travel between Harare and Bulawayo. Online reservations are not always easy so it might be a matter of booking a ticket at one of their many offices when you arrive in Zimbabwe.
Other companies that have reliable services (with international routes and connections) include:
Greyhound(between Johannesburg, Pretoria and Bulawayo)
Minibus Taxi
There are minibus taxis that operate between Victoria Falls (or rather the village just outside of town) and Bulawayo. They operate daily. Ask locally in Victoria Falls for directions and up to date information.
Train
There is a small fleet of colonial-era trains that traverse the line between Victoria Falls and Bulawayo (and in reverse) on a daily basis, as a night service. I took the train and thoroughly enjoyed the experience. It's dated, poorly ventilated and slow but the journey is iconic and, for me personally, worth the sixteen-hour rickety journey. I do love train travel after all.
Rather than recount every intimate detail here, the man at seat61 has it covered. Check out his site for up to date information about the journey.
Note that you can only buy tickets on the morning of departure, at the station in either city. Go early to secure the seat or cabin you desire. Offices typically open at 9am but people arrive by 7.30am to get the seat they want.
You could pay for tickets in US Dollars at the time of travelling in early January, 2020.
The train officially departs Victoria Falls at 7pm and Bulawayo at 7.30pm (although it was 30 minutes later than that in reality from Bulawayo to Victoria Falls). They rarely arrive on time the next morning. In fact, mine was four hours late.
Car
If you have rented a car or bought one, then getting around will probably be a little easier for you. Roads are reasonably good in Zimbabwe, particularly on the road between Harare and Bulawayo. Signs are clearly posted, too, which makes navigating a reasonably easy task. Fuel is expensive, though and prices continue to climb.
Getting around Bulawayo - TRANSPORTATION
On Foot
As a relative flat city, walking is seamless and distances are not far. Safety is becoming a bit of an issue, though, due to the drought, food crisis, rising desperation among people and economic instability.
I felt quite safe walking around during daylight hours in Bulawayo, more so here than in Harare. A few travellers I met did experience bag snatch attempts in town, though, which was unsettling. Using common sense, such as walking without possessions (or having them tucked underneath clothing) and taking taxis at night, will make you less of a target. Nearly all of the theft that occurred was non-violent - people really are desperate and some are starving.
I'm not condoning bag snatching or crime - there's really never any excuse for it. However, it is important to have perspective and empathise a little by means of trying to understand the complexities of corrupt politics and its effects on the population.
By Taxi
If you're concerned about safety, then it's not so expensive to take taxis in Bulawayo. They generally charge US$1 per kilometre travelled. Prices can be negotiated but I found the drivers in Bulawayo fair, reasonable and honest.
By Informal Bus
There are apparently informal buses (disguised as minivans) that operate around town. I never saw any in operation, perhaps because I was there during the days following New Years. I'd anticipate they are crowded yet cheap.
Getting into Zimbabwe - VISAS
As with visas for most countries, they are required to enter Zimbabwe for the purpose of tourism (and other reasons) but the rules are subject to change. It's always best to check with the embassy or consulate of Zimbabwe closest to you prior to arriving to ensure you are up to date with the most recent requirements.
As of 2019, there are three categories of visa (one for those who do not require a visa, another for those who can get a visa on arrival and the third for those who need one prior to arriving) and, depending on your country of origin (and passport), you'll be permitted to stay for various lengths of time.
As an Australian passport holder, I could have obtained a visa on arrival (with proof of onward travel either via bus or plane out of the country) for US$30 (paid in cash).
However, I opted to obtain the recently introduced KAZA UniVisa which gave me permission to cross between Zimbabwe and Zambia without having to acquire a new visa each time. It was marvellous and made moving between the two countries (particularly at Victoria Falls) seamless. It also gave me the option of going into Botswana for one day (but not overnight). I paid US$50 in cash at Harare Airport and got it without hassle. I was not even asked for details about my date of departure. It was quite straight-forward.
To see if you're eligible for the UniVisa, check with the Zimbabwe consulate or embassy nearest to you. Alternatively, for unofficial advice, review the Victoria Falls Guide (which is generally well-maintained).
Staying in Bulawayo - ACCOMMODATION
There are a variety of budget, midrange and high-end accommodation options in Bulawayo. As a generally budget-conscious traveller, I opted to stay at Choice Guesthouse and Backpackers on Heyman Road, a lovely colonial-era home that’s been tastefully converted into accommodation. The owner, Cornelius and site manager, Shelgin, were very helpful in accommodating my needs and supporting me to book a tour and a train ticket. It’s a short 30-minute walk from town, a journey that warrants a taxi ride after dark due to safety concerns. The street, though, is stunning, wide and lined by jacaranda trees.
Consult the following websites for up to date information regarding prices and availability of accommodation in Bulawayo and Zimbabwe:
I spent more time here than anticipated, due to the time of the year (it being New Years Eve when I arrived) and an inability to get tours on preferred days. Two to three days should suffice, though, one for exploration of the city and another for visiting Matobo National Park.
Eating in Bulawayo - RESTAURANTS
There is a surprising variety of restaurants in the city, considering its relativity small scale. 50% of the time I cooked at home, though. However, when I wanted to test my tastebuds, I went out. I can personally recommend:
The Bulawayo Club and
Indaba Book Cafe.
Both served hearty and tasty food at reasonable prices. Note that of the two, only Bulawayo Club accepted payment by Visa card (which didn’t work on the day I visited due to network problems). US dollars were accepted at both restaurants (as I’d anticipate bonds would be).
Spending in Bulawayo - CURRENCY
Where do I start? At the time of visiting between 2019 and 2020, the Bond (Zimbabwe’s official currency in circulation that’s pegged to the US Dollar) was experiencing fairly large fluctuations. Paper notes were difficult to acquire. I was fortunate in that I arrived at Harare Airport and bought US$50 worth of Bonds at the currency exchange store (at a rate of US$1 to Bond 15).
Having Bond was helpful as I couldn’t get Ecocash as a non-resident (the online currency system the country has recently introduced), many places do not accept international cards (regardless of whether you have Visa or MasterCard), foreign cards do not work at ATMs and some things, like bus tickets, could only be purchased using Bond or Ecocash. Even though the US Dollar is in circulation, it’s technically not legal tender so places such as pharmacies will not accept it.
The money situation gave me a headache prior to arrival and during my first two days in country. However, it got easier as time passed. Here’s how I operated:
I used my Visa card at supermarkets where it was accepted (such as Spar and Pick N Pay. Note that one of the Spar supermarkets in Bulawayo, on Fife Street, only accepted US Dollars at the time of visiting, not international Visa or MasterCard)
I also used my Visa card at restaurants where it was widely accepted (although smaller eateries did not have card facilities)
I used the Bond I had sparingly, mostly to pay for bus fares and small, miscellaneous goods on the street (note that the train ticket between Victoria Falls and Bulawayo can be purchased using US Dollars)
I tried to prepay accommodation that had been booked through Booking.com although it wasn’t always possible (so I paid with Visa or US Dollars)
I then paid for everything else (wherever legal) using US Dollars
It worked, most of the time.
Online currency conversion websites such as www.xe.com do not provide an accurate rate so, at this point in time (as at 2019/2020), it’s best to avoid them. Ask about the rate when you're in Zimbabwe.
Bring plenty of US Dollars with you - it's my top tip!
I hope this makes sense. If there is any confusion, don’t hesitate to get in touch.
Ben, a seasoned solo traveller, writer, photographer, nurse, and health advocate, embarked on his global journey in 2003 at 18, transforming travel into his life's work and passion. His website reflects his extensive experience and insights, offering guidance on exploring the world uniquely and maintaining health while on the road.
