The mere mention of Israel, for many, stirs varied emotion at the core: it's politically controversial, historically endowed, ecclesiastically rich and naturally sublime. I'd been obsessed with the idea of Israel from adolescence, an exotic land home to the birthplace of Jesus with surrounding land dating to the biblical genesis of humankind. Stepping foot inside Jerusalem was living my adolescent dream. Travelling the country on my own was richly rewarding and deeply disturbing. It's a mixed bag, a fascinating entity, a country that should be visited at least once in your lifetime if only to understand the characteristics that make it such a hotly debated place.
