It is perhaps the temples of Angkor that fascinate, allure and inspire visitors to Cambodia more than anything else, a relic of the Khmer Empire which, at one point, ruled the entire region including Vietnam, Thailand and Laos. Witnessing the sun rise over the ancient temples is an other-worldly experience. But Cambodia is more than ancient relics: it's burgeoning art scenes, resilient and hospitable Khmers, ethnic minorities, beautiful landscapes and much, much more. Unpacking the soul of the historically controversial nation takes time so give yourself plenty - there's no rushing Cambodia. Personally, it was the eternal optimism of the people that won me over, fortified and spirited despite years of bloodshed through political mismanagement. I left with a strong desire to return. I hope you do, too.