As the second-oldest European settlement in the Americas, Puerto Rico’s vibrant capital is a piece of antiquity with a modern veneer that continually pulses energy. Even as the oldest jurisdiction of the United States, there is more to the capital city than the colonial stamps that attract visitors: colourful street art, superb cuisine, Spanish intonation and a vernacular of celebration all form part of the city’s eternally shifting mosaic. I had three days to explore San Juan, yet many other visitors are limited to a day. There is a lot that can be covered with on 24 hours in San Juan. Take note of the recommendations in this article and get the most out of your time in the city.
Morning, Day One
There’s no better way to begin exploration of the Puerto Rican beauty than by walking the vibrant cobble stone streets of Viejo San Juan, aka the old city. As the historic heart, it’s where you’ll find many of the must-see attractions. Coming towards the old city from Condado will firstly bring you to Castillo de San Cristobal, a Spanish fort that forms part of the National Historic Site (and is included as part of the ticket for the citadel and wall). Things get brighter and more vivacious as you move further west, to Plaza Colon and along a few of the colourful calle (streets) such as San Francisco, Luna and Sol. Stop, appreciate the storybook pastel pinks, blues and oranges and pay a visit to a few of the souvenir or boutique stores. The vibrancy will have your mouth agape in awe. While it’s open, pour in some coffee (or any other hot or cold beverage of preference) from one of the many old-world cafes in the area.
It’s time to pass Plaza de Armas and the neoclassical 16th century Catedral de San Juan Bautista en route to San Juan National Historic Site, an exquisite example of history preserved. Buy a ticket (that lasts for several days) and take your time exploring every nook and hidden cranny of 16th century Castillo san Felipe del Morro San Juan. If it piques your interest, wander next door to Cementerio Santa Maria Magdalena de Pazzis, the final resting place of prominent local residents. There’s also the vibrant and sea-facing El Morro la Perla, a historical shanty town on the other side of the green expanse that surrounds the castle and cemetery.
You can then head south, along Paseo del Morro, masonry walls dating to the 1630s that surround the old city. Stroll languidly, appreciate the views across the bay and let the Atlantic breezes caress your reddening cheeks as it approaches midday. It’s a unique experiential historical activity that’ll help build your appetite for lunch. You’ll end up at La Fortaleza (the baby blue Governor’s Mansion) and Paseo de la Princesa, a mid-19th century promenade with antique streetlamps and panoramic views over the Marina.
There are plenty of lunch options from which to choose nearby, although many do not befit the budget of a mere backpacker (like me). Cheaper options (including a supermarket) surround Plaza de Armas, or if you wish to treat yourself, head to Barrachina (on Calle Fortaleza), Verde Mesa (on Calle de Tetuan) or La Danza (on Calle del Cristo).
Afternoon, Day One
Before uncovering the street art native to Santurce – Condado’s neighbouring zone, take a post-prandial break and bask in the shade of palms on the sandy shores of playa Balneario El Escambrón. Relax as tidal tones lull you into a daydream. Follow it up with a dip in cool Atlantic waters. If it’s further rest and relaxation you’re after, then visit the shores of playa Condado (across the bridge, in front of the Hilton Hotel) or Atlantic Beach.
Condado is native to shops so if browsing and buying take your fancy, then spend your time wandering in and out of the boutiques scattered throughout the neighbourhood. Alternatively, you could appreciate the public murals that cover many of the walls of sister neighbourhood, Santurce. Head to Calle Cerra and admire brightly coloured works thematically rooted in the country’s history. It helped me appreciate that San Juan is a piece of art: vibrant, dynamic and constantly evolving.
If you’re anthropologically curious like me, then I’d recommend taking a seat in a plaza or one of the city’s parks and watching locals go about their daily business. Try out your Spanish language skills, conjure an ounce of confidence and strike up a conversation with a Puerto Rican. I try this regularly in all corners of the globe to which I travel as it shifts my worldview and opens my mind to new ways of thinking and understanding. Puerto Ricans are lively, animated and gregarious by nature – it’s likely to be an upbuilding exchange.
Evening, Day One
If you’re a dance fanatic, then a visit to La Placita Santurce is a must. A public square surrounded by restaurants and bars, it’s here that Puerto Ricans migrate after the sun has vanished. Salsa beats pound the night air as rhythmic hips and buttressed derriere punctuate the panorama. I passed hours in La Placita with new travel comrades in tow, mingling with locals and dancing the night away.
However, before you wiggle your way into the wee hours, you’ll need some fuel to ignite the inner dancing fire. Puerto Rican cuisine is a delicious fusion of West African, Spanish, Asian and Taino flavours. Despite its vicinity to the USA, the ingredients utilised here are worlds apart. Heavy on meat, rice and oil, Puerto Rican food is discerningly seasoned and surprisingly well-balanced.
If you’re after familiarity, then there is, of course, arroz con pollo aka chicken and rice – simple, yet aromatic and tasty. If you’re feeling a little more adventurous, as was I, opt for mofongo. Made of plantain that’s been fried and mashed with garlic, shaped into a semi-circle and served as a pilón, then you’ll be satisfied all the way to satiety - it’s tasty and filling. Accompanied by chicharrón (fried pork rind), it’s a great snack for early evening diners and late-night revellers alike. If you’re staying close to Condado, try Kiosko Freddy (El Rey del Mofongo) for an authentic serving.
For those who prefer entertainment that doesn’t involve dancing, head to one of the city’s jazz clubs. Alternatively, opt for a stroll along Ashford Avenue and watch the crucible of nightlife unfold.
Morning, Day Two
Before moving on to your next destination, try one of the budget-friendly food options in Condado, such as Café Manolin for desayuno – yes, breakfast. Take a final stroll along Atlantic Beach before collecting your luggage and heading to the departure point.
NOTE: In the end, I stayed in San Juan for three days. I was able to see things at a casual pace and return to attractions I enjoyed. However, this itinerary can certainly be achieved in 24-hours.
I was there prior to the devastation wreaked by Hurricane Maria. I’m not sure how much damage has been done to the people and the place. However, it shouldn’t stop you from visiting – Puerto Ricans and their economy need your interest now, more than ever before.
