To escape the grind of daily life, Chileans frequently leave Santiago’s mountainous cityscape and flock to the sinuous Pacific coastline in search of sun, sea and golden sand. Taking a leaf out of their wise books, Ben and I followed suit. Here's how our time visiting Valparaíso and Viña del Mar unfolded.
Valparaíso’s Unusual Appeal
Despite Santiago’s charismatic edge, set to a backdrop of snow-covered Andean mountains, the allure of the two nearby Oceanside cities was compelling. Getting away from Santiago was simple: we boarded the bus at Terminal Alamada and one hour later, disembarked at Avenida Pedro Montt in Valparaíso.
Ruggedly charming, the colourful sprawl of homes flowing down the hill – streets and stairs snaking their way through the vivacious urban jungle – gave way to the tidal waters of the port below. Despite a superficially rough exterior, thanks to grimy and ramshackle spots littered throughout the city, its most endearing qualities are found by scratching away at the unpolished surface. As per the words of Pablo Neruda, “Of the wild angry sea that, with all its power beat the rocks, it could not knock you down because on your southern chest is tattooed the struggle, the hope, the solidarity and the joy as anchors resisting the waves of the earth.”
Rather than ride the ascensore (funicular) to the city’s summit, we opted for a stroll through the urban core. After an interlude followed by lunch near Plaza Sotomayor, we said farewell to the intriguing metropolis and took the train to nearby Viña del Mar.
Viña del Mar's Orderly Exterior
In contrast to the frenzied core of Valparaíso, moving 20 minutes further north along the Pacific coastline transported us to an orderly city of charm and elegance. Filled with well-kept public parks and newly established resorts, Viña presents a diverse picture to that of her closest neighbour. Rather than climb into a carriage pulled by an old grey horse, Ben and I walked along the boulevard fringed by palms. Pacific winds swept across our faces and thrust our well-walked legs forward with each step.
The golden sands of the beach called, following an ice cream in Plaza Colombia. As we sat on the beach before waves gently rolling off the ocean, the sun glistening in the blue sky, affluent Santiaguinos sashayed by on their way to and from their respective four-and-a-half-star luxury hotels. The calm atmosphere sent us into a trance. Moving back to the train was ergo challenging, particularly against the magnetic allure of Viña’s picturesque waterfront.
Should you Visit?
Although only brief, our journey to Chile’s Pacific shores was well worth the effort. Despite the beauty of stunning Santiago, getting to the coast is necessary to obtain a diverse perspective of the country’s multi-faceted character.
