Home to untouched forests teeming with ancient trees, untamed waves rolling continually off the Pacific Ocean and food so fresh its smell is intoxicating, Tofino – located on Vancouver Island’s wild and woolly western frontier - is paradise reborn. It’s British Columbia’s answer to a modern-day Garden of Eden. However, unlike the biblical utopia synonymous with a sly serpent and headstrong humans, no fruit is forbidden: all those seduced by Tofino’s mesmeric appeal are rewarded. The beauty tap was on full throttle during its creation and, following a four-day visit in September, such magic manifested first-hand while engaging in various nature appreciation activities. Here are a few things to do in Tofino to appreciate the untouched beauty.
Live Life on the Water: Kayaking Tofino
To realise the immensity of the region’s beauty, kayaking around local inlets and close by islands is necessary. Although more than a decade had passed since last sitting inside a wobbly piece of floating plastic, staying vertical and moving in the right direction – even against certain side-sweeping currents – was like riding a bicycle. The Native Canadian sea kayaking expedition guide – Jesse Pictou, a recent addition to the company’s team - demonstrated safety techniques on shore before leading the way to Meares Island, ensuring the avoidance of sea planes and passing boats on the way.
The four-hour excursion took nature enthusiasts on a round-trip, passing rugged mountain scenery, other kayakers and shallow clear waters swarming with sea creatures. Inherent to life by the sea is water worship. According to Jesse, many locals – particularly during the summer months - spend large portions of time gliding across the silky surface. It’s a way of life.
Trek the Big Tree Trail: Meares Island
The midpoint of the kayaking expedition was Meares Island, an ancient woodland that plays host to giant cedars. Dubbed ‘big tree island', zigzagging - on foot - along the boardwalk through the forest provided testimony to the accuracy of the affectionate nickname. The cedars – some estimated to be more than one thousand five hundred years old - stretched seamlessly into the blue heavens above, a height of “Eighteen metres,” according to Jesse. The Hanging Garden Tree, a western red cedar, was particularly interesting: not only was its peak unobservable to the naked eye, its girth is bigger than eight human arms linked together, testament to the strength of its wood given the hollow interior. The island is largely untouched, thanks to the efforts of the Nuu-chah-nulth who fought tirelessly throughout the eighties, protesting forestry mogul MacMillan Bloedel’s plans to harvest the land. Visiting was thus a sacred honour, and an itinerary must.
Watch Whales to a Backdrop of the Setting Sun
To round off day one’s activities, a visit to Tonquin Beach was essential. Nestled between rock and rainforest, its setting is idyllic for gaining solace and watching whales swim past set to a backdrop of sunset resplendence. Getting there from Tofino’s main thoroughfare is simple: it's a twenty-minute trek – up and down a hill – on foot. Once in the carpark, however, a one kilometre walk through luscious rainforest was required before arriving on the golden sands. Don’t forget to take a torch, as street lights are sparse and the moon’s guidance may not always be reliable on the return journey to town.
Chill out in Atmospheric Surroundings, at Whalers
Following a day of nature-appreciation, sitting on leather couches before floor-to-ceiling glass windows is ideal: with unobstructed views of the nearby sea, there is no better way to wind down. Views aside, the ideally positioned and well-priced Tofino Hostel attracts a vast array of visitors, people with whom to share a drink, chat about the day’s activities over a bite to eat or laugh while playing a hand at cards.
Indulge on Flavoursome Fare for a Fair Buck: Sobo
Named by En Route magazine as one of Canada’s top ten restaurants in 2003, Tofino’s Sobo plays host to an impressive seafood menu conceived personally by a couple passionate about food-adventurism. Originally housed in a catering truck, the business has grown in popularity thanks to a menu marked by fresh local ingredients with a twist of southern ranch goodness. The salmon, served on a bed of roasted squash and topped with toasted hazelnuts, set my palette ablaze.
Get Geothermal Goodness at Hot Springs Cove
No visit to Tofino is complete without a dip in the region’s very own hot springs. An hour’s boat ride from town, Hot Springs Cove provides visitors with the opportunity to shed the worries of the world in unadulterated geothermal waters. Cascading the side of the hill, bathers can work their way from an immersion in near boiling water at the top - under the misting droplets of the small waterfall - to the seaside fifty-degree Celsius balminess of the bottom pool. Early arrival is essential: by the time midday rolled around, the pools were overflowing with lobster-like red human bodies. Be sure to leave enough time for departure, as the recommended thirty-minute walk along the boardwalk that winds through an old growth forest back to the jetty can be a beautiful distraction.
See Tofino from the Air: Sea Plane Adventures
According to Tofino Tourism, “you have to see it to believe it.” In step with their rudimentary philosophy, taking a twenty-minute flight in a six-seater sea plane – soaring through the skies above the region - provided a five-star perspective: it was natural beauty, at its greatest.
The vision of natural splendour, spread as far as the eye can see, is undeniably breathtaking. It’s also believable, but only through appreciation as a captive audience member to one of nature’s most glamorous shows.
