The Finnish city of Helsinki, to many, may elicit images of Christmas and reindeer. However, during a forty-eight-hour stop over, a snapshot of the Scandinavian harborside city captures an essence proving it is comprised of more than a fictitious overweight old man traveling the world on a sled.
DAY ONE
7.30AM After finishing breakfast at your lodgings, walk the clean streets to the desired destination: Market Square. On the way, observe the distinguished buildings that line the footpaths and note the frequency of the green city trams as they haul Finns and visitors to various parts of the city.
8.30AM Harbourside to the Baltic Sea, Market Square - to the east of Esplanadi - is home to a spring-to-autumn outdoor market showcasing some of Helsinki’s finest: floral arrangements, Finnish foods and traditional knickknacks. They are available in abundance and are readily accessible to the curious eyes and hands that pass by.
Spend time walking from stall to stall along the water’s edge, permitting the savoury aromas of frying herring and reindeer to invade your nostrils and accelerate your appetite to lunchtime. Grab a handful of fresh berries from a boat vendor and stash them for a midmorning snack near Senate Square.
9.30AM Continue on foot to Senate Square, and be prepared for a stately overload: prominent buildings including the President’s Palace, the Government Palace, the University and the Museum of Natural History can all be found in this vicinity. Imposing to some, the regal nature of this city zone has the potential to awe the observer. Be immersed in the grandeur, absorb the regal tone and finish the sequence of admiration by walking to the base of Helsinki Cathedral.
10.30AM Erected ten metres above Senate Square on a crag in 1852, Helsinki Cathedral is a prominent feature occupying the skyline of Helsinki. Choose a spot in the warm morning sun and sit on the broad steps leading up to the Lutheran Cathedral’s entrance. Now is time to appreciate the grandeur of the city’s architecture while feasting on the succulent berries bought in Market Square.
11AM About a fifteen-minute walk in the direction of Mannerheimintie is the historic Yrjonkadun Swimming Hall - a Finnish establishment that dates back to 1928. Tastefully designed with credence given to classicism, doing a naked lap in the Roman-style pool is a must. Follow this with a full body detox in the sauna, remembering to replenish fluid lost through sweat with water.
Observe entry times carefully, as men and women must visit separately, due to the dress-less code. Don’t be deterred by the corpulent women collecting 5.5 Euros at the entrance: they’re polite and helpful, and do not follow naked visitors into the pool.
1PM Return to Market Square and satisfy a growing appetite by buying a plate of freshly cooked Finnish cuisine wandering eyes may have unconsciously selected earlier in the morning. Choose from the varied options including fried reindeer, brush potatoes, and miscellaneous vegetables. If eating Santa’s cherished reindeers is too heinous however, then consider a seafood option: they are plentiful and have generally come from the surrounding water the same day.
Sitting with feet dangling over the promenade, it is time to reflect on the morning’s adventures and allow each tastebud an opportunity to detect, integrate and appreciate the flavours of every forkful of Finnish delight.
2PM Make way for the Presidential Palace, on the East side of Market Square. Opposite the Palace, buy a five Euro return ticket for the HLS ferry to Suomenlinna, Helsinki’s very own World Heritage Site. Ferries depart three times an hour, so don’t worry about missing out: the fortress isn’t going anywhere and any wait is worthwhile.
Comprised of six conjoined islands, the fortress is extensive. It was built under Swedish rule in the eighteenth century to evade Russian territorial expansion. It is now host to a series of antiquated stone structures, all of which are free to visitors. Follow the ‘blue route’ - starting at the jetty - and amble along the footpaths, stopping occasionally to greet one of the inhabitants of the island or to simply admire the fortress’s beauty. Take note of the view across the water back to Market Square: it’s a prizeworthy shot.
Once at the King’s Gate – a mere 1.5 kilometres away – make way for one of the island’s many cafes and restaurants. Noteworthy is Suomenlinna Brewery near the jetty, which entreats diners with local flavours - including a traditional salmon soup for 9.80 Euro - and an extensive list of home brewed beers.
7PM Although food – in all its Scandinavian glory - has greedily consumed a large portion of day one’s itinerary, dinner beckons, and savouring more of Helsinki’s hometown specialities is a must. If a late lunch on Suomenlinna has caused satiety, then take this small window of opportunity to get some shut eye before embarking on a fun-filled night. However, there are ample opportunities to savour more of this city’s culinary delights: home to over one thousand restaurants, embarking on a culinary expedition has never been more feasible.
A popular favourite of travellers and tourists alike is Passio Keittio Baari - translated as Passio Kitchen and Bar - an affordable establishment that offers a five-course meal for only 69 Euro. Priding themselves on artisan craftsmanship served with passion, walking past would be foolish. Tucked on a side street two blocks from Mannerheimintie, getting there is simple.
9PM For a terrace cocktail surrounded by style and sophistication, go to Bar Grotesk, a short seven-minute walk from Passio Keittio Baari. Equipped with a house DJ, getting on your drinking vibe won’t be hard especially while wielding a Peach Don’t Kill my Vibe cocktail (12.50 Euro). Mildly inebriated by the juice of Remy Martin, fermented peach and lemon, striking up a conversation with the bearded Finnish barman won’t seem quite so contemptuous.
Try some wine: the list here flaunts a vast array of modestly priced high-quality bottles.
DAY TWO
9AM After chowing down a hearty traditional Finnish breakfast of purro (porridge) topped with lingenberry jam, take time strolling along Mannerheimintie - the city’s premier shopping street. During the amble, observe the juxtaposition of hexagonal and pentagonal shapes morphing the skyline, blending the city’s architecturally old with new.
10AM Before long, the morning stroll will see you arrive at Töölönlahti Bay, a slice of archetypically Finnish scenery in central Helsinki. Take the walking path the entire way around and be sure to stop and appreciate the architectural splendor of the National Opera House and Finlandia House. The serenity may be disrupted at times by locals on a health kick, so wave and immerse yourself in the routine of daily life.
Take note of the wooden villas dotted along the shores of ‘Töölö’ – a part of the city’s history. Stop to admire the Winter Garden at the Bay’s northern end.
12 NOON A twenty-minute walk along Eteläinen will end at Hietaranta Beach, a sandy retreat in the heart of Helsinki. Popular with locals – particularly in summertime – you can pass hours bronzing in the sun, playing beach volleyball or simply relaxing over a light seafood lunch. With easily accessible cabins, showers and toilets, maintaining modesty is never an issue. Kick back and enjoy the serenity or take some initiative and strike up conversation with locals enjoying some downtime.
3PM Walk back to Eteläinen and take bus number eight to Sörnäinen metro station, in the neighbourhood of Kallio. Walk five-hundred metres to Harjutorinkatu number one. Although no longer a common feature of modern day Finnish culture, this wood-fired sauna – that dates back to 1928 – is an essential component of national tradition and, as such, warrants a visit.
After a hard day of walking, opt for a scrub down with a massage from a burly Finn. Relax into a new body as muscles unfurl and aches dissipate, a mixture of massage oil and sweat sliding off your unctuous skin. Hire a towel for three Euro, shower and replenish with fluid. Take time to reflect on the events of the weekend while walking to the metro station.
6PM Return to the centre of Helsinki via the Metro and grab a bite before heading to the airport.
